Question about Heating & Cooling
When I turned on the furnace the fan came on and stays on but there is no heat. what do I need to do to fix this problem?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: will not shut off
Sounds like a stuck relay on the unit itself. Maybe there is a short in the control wire that comes from the thermostat that activates the fan.
The thermostat probably has one hot wire at all times. The thermostat then chooses which wire to send the voltage down based on your selection. One of those wires is probably for the fan only. Make sure that it is in good condition (no bare, pinched or wires)
Posted on Jun 17, 2008
I don't think these little units have a start capacitor but what I would do is check that the on/off switch wires to make sure they aren't loose. Also check the wires to the compressor for loose wires as well. It is possible that these are the first signs that the compressor is about to fail. They also can act up some when they haven't been used for awhile and then you try and start them up. Try running the unit for a few hours without asking it to cycle. It might just be a sticky valve.
Posted on Apr 13, 2009
Hi, you have replaced the stat several times, and adjusted the anticipator so its not the stat.This is a split gas/elect unit, and working on these for many years and looking at some of the solutions given, they are right.You need to be looking at the Furnace fan control.Units of that age they do tend to stick open and run constantly.I doubt its the fan relay, maybe if you were in the cooling mode.Fan controls are not that expensive. You probably have a Honeywell 7" to 11" Probe, with the auto/manual button, with a temp dial to set you're on off temps. I would inspect the heat exchanger for any signs of cracks or bulging being its that old. If you find any, you are looking at carbon monoxided and should be thinking about an upgrade soon.Also flame roll out.I am thinking of you're safety is all.If you do have this type of fan control, there is a tab that has to be cut before you install for 24v. control.It comes set for 120v. and will burn out all of your 24v. componants.Those old Bryants will run for years. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
your switch should be oopen but when it reaches 41 degrees it should open so the system shuts off before it damages the compresor by sludging it, i have the same unit and my compresor runs for 5 seconds and shuts off, i checked the amp draw at the compresor and it draws 21 22 amps trying to start after the initial 5 second run, but it wont come on againts a load so the comprresos equilizes and tries to start over again with out positive results. i bipass the external obverload on top of compresor terminals area, still no fix yet, the relay on the control board continious to send power to the compresor and still draws , so if there is a problem with the control relay i would open up and dont send power to the compresor so i dont think is the relay, i am a a/c service man for
35 years and do this for a living still today, by experience i think it is the compresor gone bad but will try by passing the relay just to see what happens, also it could be bad capacitor since it have a hard start relay and start capacitor (black )also a run (silver ) capacitor they check ok, there is no way to check the charge unles you install a saddle tap to check presures and rechage this unit i think the compresor replacement is the way to go ( around 250) plus labor and freon r22 e mail add firstname.lastname@example.org.
Posted on May 06, 2010
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