I made the mistake of varnishing over my oil (alkyd) paintings with Liquitex gloss varnish. Can this varnish be removed? What happens to the painting if the varnish is not removed, and how long befo
One of the paintings is more than a year finished. One was completed in May, this year, and the other five small paintings were just dry to the touch. Most of them are painted on birch plywood, with acrylic gesso underpainting. One painting is on canvas.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have little experience of oil based stain other than knowing it is supposed to give long-lasting protection without further covering.
I prefer to use a spirit based stain and find it gives good results and once the spirit has evaporated it is quite inert and won't interfere with any subsequent finishes overcoating it, in fact it is designed to be overcoated.
I have used a water-based varnish and I found it particularly unimpressive compared to the usual alkyd resin or oil based stuff and it will be a long time before I use it again. Buying coloured varnish would mean you don't need the stain. I haven't tried it but I think a small amount of spirit stain could be added to oil based varnish...
You are going to have to strip the varnish off with a commercial varnish stripper. There are a few brands and the ingredients are about the same in all of them. Use very fine 200 grit sandpaper to roughen up the wood surface a bit for better adhesion. Home Depot and Lowe's have suitable products. You can ask about the types of paints and prep for use on stairs as well.
The best bet is to leave the oil poly on the treads clean it up and refinish it .
However if you need to paint for what ever reason I would recomand grinding back to wood its a lot of work pine or oak treads .
But the problem is stairs get a lot of LBS. per sq/in .In a small area of the tread and depeneding on how high of a traffic area it is nothing will stick to oil poly or varnish.
Strip them and go with an epoxy system .
And by the way I have running comerical paint jobs for 40 years
Check to see if the varnish you used is a sun curing varnish, if it is, yo may need to get some sun lamps to get the varnish to cure. If that isn't the case, you may have to remove the varnish and use something more suitable for the countertops.
Look at the back of it to see if it has yellowed. If there are yellow stains on the frame and the back, then it is not the varnish in the oil paint that has yellowed. You can then use something like 409 cleaner to get the stains off. You should blot the painting and not scrub or wipe it. If the varnish is yellowing you can get a product called conservationists liquid and apply that as per the directions to help with the varnish problem.
Yes, you would need to remove the varnish before you painted it otherwise the paint would not take to the wood and run, it would look very messy. My advice is to take the armory apart and sand, clean and paint each piece separately.
A light coat of oil will bake on and create a brown varnished look that you will have one heck of a time getting it off. If the gas grill is painted... and not porcelin coated no amount of cleaning will bring back the shiny black if the pain has been faded by sunlight. The only thing that will bring back that sheen again is a "high temp" gloss enamel paint. (Clear coating is NOT recommended. post paint as it will also darken even if it is high temp)
To clean it use a product like Mr. Muscle Kitchen cleaner or similar product. Engine degreaser works too but will dull the paint. If you plan on cleaning for painting you can use engine degreaser. If not... stick with the Mr. Muscle kitchen cleaner. Just make sure to rinse thoroughly and let it dry and lightly sand / wipe before painting.
if the teak is bare teak --- a light sanding with a sanding block should be good and then follow that with a good rub down of teak oil ( sea-fin teak oil is a good brand ).
if the teak is finished teak --- and you want to remove the old finish and sand out any stains(?) then you will need to use a more aggressive sand paper and finish off with a lighter sand paper,, clean up with acetone, use a good tack cloth and start applying varnish -- the best varnish that I have ever used is a brand called ' Epiphanes ' and you will either want to use a ' matte ' finish or a ' gloss /semi-gloss ' finish. personally I have found the 'matte ' finish to look better and it brings out the true beauty of the teak itself. ( make sure you follow the sanding instructions between coats as this will give you a nice smooth and sharp look ).
enjoy the water ---