Question about Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer
My washing machine recently stopped going through the spin cycle. Initially it would do so for a brief time during the permanent press cycle (no others), but has since completely stopped working and now throws the breaker (not the GFCI it is plugged into). I replaced the timer, but this was not the issue.
Suspect there is heavy load in the spin cycle which makes it trip off. You need to check the free movement of the drum and also the motor.
Posted on Nov 21, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite H3t washer
What a blessing to find others with the same exact problem. Had a call in to Kenmore service center and was having to wait 8 days till a repair man could show up. Service call would have been at least $110 for the man to show up at the door. After discovering this website my wife and I are proud to announce that we found two (our 2 year olds) socks and one of my wife's nursing pads clogging up the filter along with some thread and a little gunk. Cleaned it out and in 10 minutes from start to finish we were done. Ran the machine twice and find it is running just like new. Like other postings here we found that a 45 minute wash took 90 minutes because the machine never could spin out on the first try. We thought it had problems balancing out the load of wash. Now it spins out quickly and without wasting time. I think of how much extra money it cost us to run the machine like this. Also, while we were sitting in our laundry room admiring the return of our washer I took a look at our complimentary Kenmore Elite HE3t dryer. Everyone who reads this far please do the following:
1. Unscrew the bottom panel of the dryer (unplug machine first)
2. Unscrew the black metal chute that goes from the lint catcher down to the blower (two sheet metal screws) pullout and clean.
3. Unscrew entire lint catcher from inside. (5 screws total) and clean.
5. One more step to really get all the lint includes pulling the entire machine out and removing the outside vent from the base of the machine. There is a 2 foot pipe to be cleaned out that extends from the other side of the blower.
I could not believe how much lint had bypassed the lint screen and had created a wall in front of the blower. I had previously checked the vent pipe leading to the outside wall and found no buildup whatsoever so I figured everything was okay. Was I ever wrong. I had found that the dryer (which is only 4 and 1/2 years old) was now taking 59 minutes to dry at normal temp instead of
the 41 minutes to dry when we first bought the machine. After I performed this service the dryer was back to drying the clothes in 41 minutes time or even less!!! In the future I will do this service, as described above, on a yearly basis. Once again we were wasting energy because we did not do this simple maintenance.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
with the machine empty see if you can lift up only the tub and see if it drops down.check to make sure there is nothing between the tub and outer tub have you gotten an f-51 error?
Posted on Nov 11, 2008
With the lid open, set the cycle to spin and press the lid switch button with a pen. Wait until the drum gets to full speed and release the lid switch. If the drum makes a knocking/ thumping noise and doesn't stop spinning within 2-3 seconds, the basket drive block is worn and needs to be replaced. (The basket drive block is located on the gearcase drive shaft, under the tub and agitator) If this has been happening for a long time you may need to replace the brake and drive tube assembly as well.
Basket drive block part number is 389140
If that's not it, let me know and I will try to help you further.
Posted on Mar 10, 2009
call sears 1 800 4myhome they can walk you thru some troubleshooting. First thing pull back the rubber ring between door and barrel to see if anything like pens etc feel into the gap underneath. If not call for troubleshooting. Get a plan with sears then wait 30 days and call in the problem. Fix will cost less.
Posted on Mar 24, 2009
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