Question about Refrigerators
I bought this unit used and it was not cooling and the panel was dead so I replaced the 3 1000 mf caps. It's now cooling fine but the level indicator is flashing. The keg is approx 3/4 full. Any suggestions?
42 deg is too warm for beer keg it should be 32 deg possible a warning temp too high
Posted on Nov 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Keep a thermometer handy. (adjust temperature control knob accordingly)
Periodically monitor temperatures inside your cooler. (adjust as necessary)
Keep the refrigerator door closed as much as possible to avoid temperature fluctuations
The temperature of the refrigerator compartment is
controlled by adjusting/setting the thermostat control
knob, located on the ceiling of the refrigerator
To start the refrigerator, and achieve maximum
• Turn the temperature control knob (using a coin
or screwdriver) clockwise to the furthest
(maximum) setting on the darker blue section of
the graduated control dial.
• Allow the refrigerator to run at this setting for 3~4
• When maximum cooling is achieved, turn back
the temperature control knob setting to the 2:00
o'clock position on the graduated blue control
• Correct cooling temperature is a key factor to
consider in storing and dispensing draught beer.
• Optimum temperature for serving draught beer is
between 34ºF ~ 38ºF.(1ºC ~ 3ºC)
• To maintain temperatures ranging between
34ºF ~ 38ºF.(1ºC ~ 3ºC) We recommend the
thermostat knob be positioned at the "2:00
o'clock" setting on the graduated blue control dial.
• To turn off the refrigerator, (no cooling) rotate the
control knob to the "0" position.
Posted on Jan 31, 2008
I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........
In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.
Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.
Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)
Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
soiunds like the coil on the refrigerator side is iced up.take and open the refrfigerator side and take a blow drier and after removing the 11 screws use the hair drier to slowly melt the icec behind the cover. If you pull too hard and or too soon you'll break the stryofoam ductin that has to be around the coil. then make sure that the drain line is clear reassemble and have a Merry Christmas!
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
I am sending you a link below to download the manual for your model. There are too many Q&A to do this here and on this page. The manual has some self diagnostic test you can do yourself through the control panel. These are very good refrigerators and they are backed by Maytag. The only problem is they are complex. You can try to find answers and if you have questions I will need to be contacted by email because Fixya has not been sending out anyones responses lately. They know about the problem. Sea Breeze
Posted on Jul 16, 2009
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