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New livewell pump runs but will not pick up water, the outflow has a tee wich leads to two wells.

Could there be an air lock?

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Is it wired correctly ? Brown is positive,is impeller loose on shaft

Posted on Nov 30, 2013

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3 Answers

How do I prime my flotec 4022 pump


A number of Flotec pump manuals are available here: http://www.flotecpump.com/ResidentialResourcePage_resourcepage_ownersmanuals.aspx . The site lists a FP4022-10 pump with the direct link to the manual here: http://www.flotecpump.com/resources/images/514.pdf .

For this type of pump, there should be a priming plug or priming tee. Remove the plug (or tee) and pour water into the pump. Keep adding water until the pump and all of the piping to the well is full of water. If a priming plug or tee was also added on the suction side of the pump, open that section and fill all of the piping on the suction side with water. Replace the plugs/tees then open a faucet in the house. Start the pump. After 2-3 minutes, turn off the pump if no water has come through the unit. Add more water through the priming plug or tee (or multiple plugs and tees). Then repeat closing the priming ports and start the pump after opening a faucet. Once the pump is actually pumping water, turn off the open faucet. Wait for the pump to shut off once it reaches full pressure. Open one or two faucets to check that the pump is properly sensing the pressure changes and maintaining system water pressure.

If the unit didn't pull water from the well, check the piping for air leaks. See the full trouble-shooting guide in the manual. Page 9 has the priming information and page 10 has the trouble-shooting guide.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Aug 27, 2016 | Flotec Plumbing

1 Answer

My 2 livewell pumps on my boat run but dont pump water to the livewells


have you tried reversing the wires. if wrong they run backkward and will never pump water .

Aug 18, 2014 | Boating

1 Answer

Heater blows cold air


Either the temperature blending door is stuck, the temperature control cable came loose from an anchor at the endof the cable jacket, or there is an air bubble in the heater core or heater core is clogged. Is the coolant mix adequate for your climate?

with the engine warm and running, are both heater hoses warm? If not, there is no flow. In one extreme case with one of my own vehicles I installed items that are called flushing tees in both hoses to purge the air out. Matk one hose on both side of the cut to distinguish it from the other, and check the ability of the heater core to allow coolant to glow through it. If you are above freezing, water from a garden hose is fine at low pressure. Otherwise you need to use regulated compressed air. If no flow- the problem was a clogged heater core replace core.

If heater core had decent flow thtough it, install one flushing tee per side- ideally in the middle of the hose so each can be held up to collect air from the bubble. With engine cold, start the engine with both tees capped. The one hose that leads off the water pump- crack open first tee until coolant flows. snug cap reasonably tightly. Then crack open the other tee, hold it as high as the hose will allow until coolant begins to flow. then snug cap.

At this point you should have heat if the control cables were all anchored, and doors/actuators opened and closed them correctly.

Jan 04, 2012 | Ford Taurus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1998 Champion 181 bass boat in California...It appears that livewell is leaking into bilge,...and the aeration pump is not working? Could it be the pump? or a fitting at the base of the live well...by the...


try "duct tape" the fittings and drain to seal those areas, refill and see if water is still leaking, if so it's your live-well is cracked somewhere, and can be repaired on the inside with fiberglass resin..... if not then most likely the fittings/pump/hoses/etc....yes its a pain .Champions don't have alot of room to access any of that...got a Ranger myself....hope this helps and see you on the water....GL

Jul 06, 2009 | RTO Oar Sockets

1 Answer

Put stop leak in rad


the only thing I can recommend is to put in a flush tee not the hose going to the water pump but the one going to the engine open up the radiator and drain that first then fill with water get some radiator flush and run the car about ten minutes drain that out using the flush tee and a garden hose and run till it is clear with the engine running after clear close drain plug on radiator and fill with antifreeze and make sure to get all air bubbles out and you should start getting some heat and if you don't after doing all this replace the heater core but check the hoses coming from the heater core to make sure one of them is not plugged

Jan 29, 2009 | 1997 Mercury Mountaineer

2 Answers

Not draining all the way


try unblocking the outflow pipes to the machine. The pump may be trying to pump the water out but the pipe might be blocked with debris i.e. hair/fluff etc... Look under the sink and you will see the outflow pipe attached to the sump (or u-bend) with a bowl or pot handy (because of excess water), take the pipe off of the sump and check for blockages. Then if you can check the u-bend too and see if this help.

Oct 30, 2008 | GE Energy Star WCVH6260F Front Load Washer

3 Answers

1990 subaru legacy


I hope this helps : A lot of people, even mechanics overlook the dramatic effects of "air lock" as described above. This is especially prominent in BMW's because they seem more "picky". Your cooling system (every cooling system) is balanced just well enough to nearly always keep your engine cool when operating properly. Sometimes a pocket of air does become trapped at one of the higher points ion the system however. This air pocket acts like a blanket trapping heat in the one dry area, in addition to impeding air flow. I would start WITH THE ENGINE COLD, by adding a radiator flush tee in to the heater hose leading to the intake. Start the car with the flush cap off, and the radiator cap. Play with the hoses and try to keep this tee higher than the fill cap on the radiator, to let out any air. When water is seen at the tee, cap it off and fill the radiator all the way, with the engine running, as to fill the entire block. Keep in mind that with the engine running, you kind of need to hurry. In only a few minutes, the water will get hot enough to start spewing from the open radiator (don't worry you have plenty of time, assuming it's all the way cooled down) I have seen many people leave their radiator half full, because it takes some time for the water to trickle all the way down through the runners on the radiator, and it looks full even though there is "air" (it's technically hydraulic pressure, like a siphon) holding it up. Hope fully that is the problem. You already re- did the whole system. Check your igniton timing too. Sometimes that can contribute to an overheat as well.

Oct 22, 2008 | 1990 Subaru Loyale

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