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Try changing out the Pico fuse. Only 50cents from online West Florida Components. Buy a few. Mine went out twice. It is Item # F021. It is a .5amp (500 mA)fuse-green and looks like a resistor. Location on the circuit board is near the transformer and on back edge or board behind the 2 brown wires connecting to the board and to the side of the 4 diodes there. I left the bad fuse in place and soldered the new fuse to it's legs-a lot easier and does not damage the PCB.
If the amp is working, then most of the time the buzz is given by a bad grounding. Test the amp using different wall sockets, and possibly test it in a different home (there may be an earthing problem with the home network). If the problem goes away, then it was the wall socket or the home power network. If the buzzing is still there the problem is with the amp. Check the earth connection at power cord and psu and test the amplifier's PSU components. Check also the audio connections inside the amp (the back of the female jack input sockets). A small contact in there will result in a loud buzz.
This amp uses a TDA2050 chip that has thermal protection. It is also a small amp that is NOT capable of high sound levels. If *********** can't stand to be within 5 feet of this amp you are playing TOO LOUD for this amp and it will shut down until cooled off to protect the amplifier chip. This amp is intended for practice. It would be adequate for sensible listening level in a 10 foot by 10 foot room. If you need more sound you will have to get a bigger amp. I would suggest you get a sound meter and verify the sound level. DO NOT exceed 4 hours at 90 DB... I know a lot of deaf musicians that have lost their hearing and they are not much good anymore.
Find the coil voltage and whether it is AC or DC coil andd the contact configuration. The search for relays at Digikey,com, Mouser.com, and others.
DO NOT replace the relays UNLESS you can see that the contacts are bad and fail to close. If the relay fails to move, verify the coil is open with an ohmmeter since a bad driver transistor will fail to actuate the relays.
OFTEN you can fix a sticky relay. You may find contamination in the magnet area that keeps it from closing. Remove a relay and actuate it observing operation looking for the problem.
SOME relays are used to protect speakers if the power amps don't balance... one can damage the speakers in this case. Manually actuating those relays will result in a pop in the speakers although sound MAY come out.
The fan in this is throttled depending on three temperature sensors on heat sinks in the unit... Until the temp is up the voltage will be far less than 24 volts. Two sensors are on the power amp heat sink and another on one of the heatsinks with the IGBT's in the power supply. The fan will run slow and very quiet until unit warms.