Question about Samsung Refrigerators
I have a SRS583DW side by side fridge / Freezer. the fridge side works perfectly, had to replace the fan once but apart from that no problems. The freezer side digital temp is constantly flashing and is cool but not -19 deg. I had one of my HVAC mates replace the heating element to see if that was the problem, was OK for 1 day then started flashing again. I have tried differing temps, power freeze, disconnecting, emptying and defrosting to no avail. Please help! - Dale
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
does the fridge have 2 motors or 1 if it have only 1 motor the gas level in the system are low. if it have 2 motors check if the fridge side motor runs
Posted on May 22, 2009
I had a similar problem where my evaporator coil was freezing into a block of ice, which caused my fridge to warm up due to a lack of air flow. I fixed this by doing a few things. I replaced the circuit board ($100) which was easy to do. Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem so I took the inner fridge cover off to view the evaporator/heater coil assembly. I checked my thermo fuse and found it to be open (failed). I ordered the thermo fuse and the thermistor and replaced them both. I then plugged the fridge back up and put a regular thermometer inside the fridge to get an accurate reading of inside temp. A few days now and everything looks good. The board, fuse, and thermistor were all pretty easy to replace.
Posted on Sep 19, 2010
Your fridge not working is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 - Find the Problem
Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:
* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan - Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper - Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils - Check to see that the condenser coils don't have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor - Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.
Step 2 - Frost-Free Failure
This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 - Find the Timer
When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 - Volt Test
If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven't got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.
If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.
Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn't work.
A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Hope this help in solving the problem. Take care.....
Posted on Oct 03, 2010
HI has the temp held steady at 28? And do you notice if the fan in running in the freezer if you open the door do you hear a fan running, if you do not, then the problem is a bad control board located in the rear of the refigerator behind an small access panel this control board runs about 175-200.00 to buy.
Posted on Mar 26, 2011
Sounds like a couple of different issues here....
First, the defrost element may checkout, but is it being turned on??? It would seem as though the controlboard/timer are bad and not bringing it on to defrost the coils...
However the coils maybe frosting up more then usual because it also seems as though either the unit is low on charge or the condenser coils are plugged up and the heat is not being disipated properly...
Check the condenser coils to make sure they are clean....if the unit still is having a hard time cooling then it is likely that you have a small leak in the refrigerant system and it will need to be found, repaired, and the system recharged...
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote that will give you more details about hese things...
Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair
Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
Posted on Jun 24, 2011
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