Question about Maytag MER8772WS Stainless Steel Electric Range
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
HI I have a different brand, but this same thing was happening to our oven, I had to have a repairman replace the temperature sensor in the oven. Apparently it was reading the temperature as like 300 degrees higher than it actually was so it was shutting off (I guess as a safety mechanism). Hope this helps. Good luck.
Posted on Feb 12, 2007
The oven temp sensor has gone bad. F1-2 would be for the lower oven and F1-1 would mean the upper oven. If you give me the model # from the sticker on the oven I can direct you to a diagram, part #, and price. These are very easy to replace. Should be located inside the oven in the upper right or left hand side. It looks like a silver rod about 4-8 inches long and crimped on the end. Most of them can be removed from inside the oven by removing the two screws, pull out the sensor (harness and all) plug in the new sensor, put the screws back in and your done. Some have to be removed from the back of the oven by removing the lower, larger back panel and follow the same process as mentioned above. Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 19, 2007
I own the magtag gemini model MER 6770 AAW serial number 14882525YB the message I am getting from the panel is F 1-2 then it beeps until I cancel then sometimes it returns beeping. Sometimes the top oven cooks fine but if I try to cook with both ovens going it goes all crazy with beeps and shuts off and sometimes won't go over 100 degrees in both ovens. I am a very handy person and if someone can tell me how and what to replace I know I could do it. The repair center said it could be $300 plus to repair. My stove is 8 years old and I paid around $1300 for it I can't afford to replace it. HELP if it is out there otherwise I guess I will have to pay to repair it still cheaper then buying a new one...
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
Please go thru this list of the fault codes for this appliance it will tell lyou what to do for the fault or what part needs to be replaced
MAYTAG FAULT CODES
Maytag Range / Stove / Oven Fault Codes Failure Code Fault Code Description Solution F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F1 Defective touch pad or clock (ERC) Replace touch pad or clock (ERC). Touch pad is a more common problem. Refer to F1 test at the top of this page for more information. F2 Oven temperature too hot Replace relay board, if present, or oven temperature sensor (RTD). Check sensor harness. F3
F4 Shorted or open oven temperature sensor (RTD) Check sensor harness and harness connection between oven sensor and oven control. Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD) if wiring is ok. F5 Watchdog and hardware conflict Replace clock (ERC). F7 Function key shorted or stuck Replace touch pad or if touch pad is part of the clock, replace the clock (ERC). F8 Analog / Digital problem Replace clock (ERC). F9 Door latch Check door latch components. Find Parts
Posted on Jan 13, 2010
SOURCE: F1 fault code
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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Posted on Oct 01, 2010
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