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How to Wire On-Board Marine Battery Chargers


Battery chargers are wired into a boat's electrical system. Wiring the charger to a battery switch permits the charging of the individual batteries or battery banks. The switch can be configured to charge both batteries or battery banks at once. Mounting the charger in the vessel keeps the charger where it will do the most good--connected to the batteries. This is useful if you are stuck with low batteries and need a recharge. Power from a generator, shore power or even AC power from another vessel can be used to get you going again

Instructions Things You'll Need:
Battery charger
Battery switch
Battery cable (sized)
Cable cutters
Razor knife
Battery terminal lugs
Lug crimper
Terminal kit
Terminal crimper
Hammer
Step 1

Mount the battery switch with the mounting kit provided by the manufacturer. The switch should be accessible but close to the battery or battery banks.
Step 2
Mount the battery charger in a location that will be accessible but protected from the elements. Mount the charger close to the battery switch to reduce the size of the charger leads.
Step 3
Connect the battery cables to the battery switch. Mount the battery cables onto their corresponding terminal studs on the battery switch.
Step 4
Lay out the battery positive cable from the charger to the switch and cut it to length with the cable cutters. Strip 3/4 inch of insulation from the cable ends with a razor knife. Splice the cable to the hot wire from the charger with a **** connector and the terminal crimper. Crimp a terminal lug onto the battery end of the cable with the lug crimper and a hammer. Connect the terminal lug at the battery switch positive output terminal.
Step 5
Lay out a battery cable from the charger to the battery negative terminal block. Cut the cable to length and strip 3/4 inch of insulation from the ends with a razor knife. Connect the battery negative cable to the charger negative power lead with a ****-splice and the terminal crimpers. Crimp a terminal lug onto the terminal block end of the cable with the lug crimper and a hammer. Connect the terminal lug at the battery negative terminal block post.

Tips & Warnings
Set the switch to "1," "2" or "both" to charge battery bank 1, bank 2 or both batteries at once.

on Jan 07, 2010 | Mercedes-Benz C230 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

For getting insure need to know the weight


contact a locksmith that sell this safe and they will be able to tell you.

Nov 17, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Windows xp sp2.need sound driver&bluthooth driver email <ahamza121@gmail.com>


There are so many drivers,so it's best you download your drivers from the brands support page.

Marvis

Mar 31, 2011 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

One of the wires from the main speaker got chewed off by my daughters pit rabbit. The speakers are not working due to this and what is the best way to restore functionability to the speakers?


if you can replace the speaker wire would be the best way to repair your sound but if you cant replace the whole speaker wire you might have to replace a section or join the wire together using a soldering iron or a crimper joiner peal at least 2-3mm of the plastic covering the speaker wire separate/spread the wires then intertwine them together to solder them together you must flux the wires before soldering if you use the crimper slide the crimper on to the wire before you intertwine them or you might just join them together intertwine them and place some electrical tape around the join
hope this helps

Mar 27, 2011 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

My son cut the wires to the rearvew miror and now has no electric sunroof, windows, or central locking


Sorry to hear this has happened to you, hopefully your son didn't get hurt.

Hopefully you can see and reach both ends of the wires he cut so you can see the wires clearly (if it's hard to see, get a flashlight).

Disconnect the battery.

You need to get barrel connectors, wire strippers and a crimper.

Here's the barrel connector: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-****-Connector-4X313?Pid=search

Here's the crimper/wire stripper combination tool: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Heavy-Duty-Crimping-Tool-1A076?BaseItem=4X313

If you look inside the connector, you will see a piece of metal. This piece of metal will act as a "bridge" for the electricity. The crimper will squish the metal to the wire (metal to metal contact). The crimper has a color code dot in the front of the tool's mouth to show you where the barrel connector needs to go. The mouth has two places to crimp and the correct spot needs to be used to crimp correctly.

Go one by one in the crimping process so you can make sure you get this correct and not cross wire anything. Each wire has a specific color code so one end of the cut should match another end of the cut (make sure you look closely at the wire's insulation because sometimes there may be two colors on the wire's insulation). Everything should be ok as long as you pay close attention to the color codes and crimp properly.

Once you find each end of the cut wire, remove a quarter of an inch of insulation on both sides using the stripping holes found inside the crimper's handle (the quarter inch of wire should show bare metal). Take a connector and place the exposed wire into the connector (take a quick peak to make sure the wire is inside the metal tube), then take the crimper and squeeze the crimper as hard as you can where the wire and metal barrel meet. You should be able to pull on the connector without the wire coming loose. Now place the other end of the wire into the opposite side of the connector and squeeze again. Give it a tug to make sure it is on.

That's it - repeat as many times as necessary to get the ends "bridged." Once you're done, connect the battery and give it a test. You should be good to go. It's a long explanation but this is really easy to do, once you see the connector and crimper this explanation will make more sense to you.

Jan 03, 2011 | 1993 BMW 3 Series

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