Question about GE Microwave Ovens
Unplugged and restarted with no change in function
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you just fried your magnetron. Normally when they go bad, they make a very loud noise like what you described. The smell concerns me because you may have ruined the waveguide as well. If the magnetron burns through the protective painted surface of the waveguide, the waveguide is ruined. In most microwave ovens this means replacing the entire unit because the waveguide is not replaceable. Putting a new magnetron in a damaged waveguide will result in the same arcing and eventual failure. In addition to the magnetron, the following components are part of the same high voltage network: HV Transformer HV Diode HV Capacitor Magnetron Thermal Cut-Out Any one of these components could have also been damaged. I DO NOT recommend taking any voltage measurements inside the HV network. Potentials of over 4000 volts can be reached and make it very dangerous for the do-it-yourselfer. Taking resistance readings with the unit unplugged is strongly encouraged. If you decide to pursue a repair, inspect the magnetron tip and inside of the waveguide first. If the magnetron is melted and/or there are burn marks inside the waveguide, a new microwave may be a in order. This actually may be a better option than an expensive repair. I hope you find this advice helpful.
Posted on Jul 31, 2007
SOURCE: Microwave will not turn off
This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or occasionally a problem on the control panel.
Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside. Its continuity must be checked.
Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. Other times, it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.
You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.
There may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
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