Question about GE Profile 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Double Oven Gas Range - Stainless-Steel

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I lifted the stove top of my hotpoint electric stove to clean under the burners and now I can not get it back in place

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  • 20 Answers

There are two metal brackets, thin ones, like little wires, one on each side, holding the stove top up. They are held in place by clicking toward you slightly when you life the stove top, push them back toward the wall slightly to release them.

Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 20, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: cleaning and care for my GE Profile stovetop

The one thing I don't suggest is using the Ceramabryte product the dealer left with us. It leaves a greasy film. When I get ready to clean my black GE Profile, I pull off the controls to wash separately. Then I lift off the grates, take a single-edge razor blade to scrape anything stuck on (it doesn't scratch), then I use baking soda and scrub and scrub with lots of paper towels. Then I start cleaning off the baking soda with lots and lots more paper towels. There is still a film, but at least it's not greasy. At this point I grab some more dry paper towels, pour on a 3' puddle of rubbing alcohol and wipe it all over the stove top and front. You may have to do this twice. Then, if I don't turn on the hood light's brightest setting, it really doesn't look too bad. I have to do this at least once a week, as I have never had a stove that got so dirty so fast and was such a pain to clean.

FYI, I would never buy another of these stoves. Besides the cleaning issue, there is the fact of having to replace the igniter (glow plug?) twice in the first four years. My old, bottom-of-the line Magic Chef went 25 years with the first replacement not coming until it was about 15 years old. Also, the broiler is unimpressive and steaks, etc., just sort of steam. Can't get a really good crust going. It's a slide-in and the top is very narrow, front to back, because of the slanted control panel on the front, and so you really can't put two large pots or pans on one side. Let's see....oh yes, I ordered the unglazed grates for safety reasons and it came with the procelain glaze. Those were replaced free of charge, though I had to go pick them up. Then the first set of unglazed grates began to rust about six months into use, so had to be replaced (again, no charge at least). Recently I noticed that the inside walls of the oven, where the racks slide, are starting to rust. Finally, the burners are difficult to calibrate, which I really notice when I try to cook rice, which comes out right about 50% of the time.

Now, on top of all this, I have to worry about the glass door exploding?!?! Should I ban my grandchildren from the kitchen? Has anyone from Consumer Reports seen this website?

Posted on Apr 03, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I want to know how to get the top of my stove to open

It usually just lifts from the top, some times you may need to engage a lock thing, kinda like when you open the hood on your car.

Posted on Apr 08, 2008

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: General Electric stove top burner does not light

Sorry for apparently not giving feedback earlier, but the gas valve on the one burner has been replaced, and that solved the problem. What apparently caused this is someone forcing the knob in the reverse direction that broke something in the shaft. It sort of worked for a little while, then would not work at all... no gas coming out = no ignition. I replaced the gas valve with the suggestions given above and all is well.

I you are having problem with your unit, check to see if gas is coming out at all from the burners...you will be able to smell it easily. Then find the pinhole on the side of the burner that is used to ignite the burner when the spark is sparking. clean this pinhole out with a toothpick or small wire...really make it clean as small obstructions can prevent it from working. Then clean off the small electrode with fine sand paper and use the toothpick to remove any food particles on the electrode and the insulator around it.

Now looking again at your comment - no ignitor-... if this means no spark, clean the electrodes ...if itstill doesnt work , one of the gurus can specify the component that generates the spark(s) and troubleshooting procedures for that.


To the person who had no gas, that sounds like a main gas valve problem (regulator?)... resend that question to the gurus as you seem to have something blocking the regular flow of gas for the whole unit.

good luck

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

ginko
  • 19396 Answers

SOURCE: Oven not working

This is either a faulty display panel, or a short inside the oven that is causing the panel malfunctioning.

The wirings, elements (both), thermostat contacts inside the oven must be checked for an eventual short. If there is none, replace the control assembly.

You find parts and diagrams here, just enter the correct model number.

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

joboo1
  • 257 Answers

SOURCE: Propane gas burner now has red flame instead of blue

Hi, If you have the same problem with your stove , furnace and water heater, Then you look for things in common that would cause the problem. Any change in the flames is an indication of a change in the fuel/air mix. The item that would be common to all would be the pressure diaphragm. This is not something a customer should work on without a through knowledge of how they work. I think you would be well advised to have a service call. Good Luck!

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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2 Answers

I have a whirlpool stove and one of the burner doesn't work but the light on switch works. What could be the problem and how can I fix. Help pls.


1.TURN THE POWER OFF TO YOUR STOVE! In most houses, the electric stove is on it's own circuit breaker. If you are in an older home, you're probably lucky you even have a stove...just kidding! If you had your kitchen updated, every electrician should have wired your stove to its own circuit breaker. Shut off the circuit breaker.
2.Remove all the burners and catch plates under them. You are going to lift the top of your stove up. Once you've done that, see what kind of receptacle you have. You'll now have to shop around to find the part. The local appliance store charged us way too much. Lowe's or Home Depot might not have your parts, or they might. Amazon might have your part and if they don't, they will direct you to someone that will. We could have saved half the purchase price if we'd gone there in the first place.
*A quick note* The receptacle is wired to the switches at the front of the stove. They complete the entire circuit, so that is the only thing you need to worry about--from the switch to the receptacle.
After the stove top is lifted, you will find another tray under it. If the wires from the receptacles go under the tray to the "on" switches at the front of
your stove, you'll have to lift this tray up as well. Remove the tray and any other panels you need to in order to get to the switches.
3.Follow the wires, which should be color-coded for that stove top burner, until you find the switch it hooks to. If you have not purchased the parts yet, go ahead and disconnect the wire from the switch and pull the receptacle from it's aluminum cradle. You'll want these parts to take with you to find their replacements.
*note* Your new wire receptacle should consist of the housing for the burner to fit snug into, and two wires that extend from the other end. Electricity works in a circle. If the circle is broken, you have a short and that is where the spark comes from- your electrical current was trying to reach the other side and sparked to get there.
If you do have the parts, compare them to the old ones to make sure they are the same. Nothing worse than spending time on a repair with the wrong parts.
If you have the RIGHT parts, find the correct end of your wires and just slide it over the terminal at the switch. They might be the screw types. Whatever you have, connect it. It does not matter which one went where. As long as you are using the empty wire terminals you just uncovered with the old wires, you are completing the circle.
*Note* I have seen some receptacle kits that do not give you enough wire and require you to splice wires together. Not only is that a bad idea, but does not conform to electrical codes requirements and could result in fire. If the new equipment did not come with long enough wire to reach all the way from receptacle to switch, purchase a longer wire at your local hardware store. For a few pennies more you could be saving your family's lives.
4.Once you have hooked the receptacle ends to the switch harness, tie down the wires alongside the wire bundle until you get to the end.
5.Attach your burner receptacle to the aluminum clamp.
6.Attach your aluminum clamp to the stove top.
7.Screw down all the pieces you removed- anything covering the switches and the bottom tray. Put down your stove top and put in place all the shields and burners. Turn the circuit breaker back on for your stove and try it out!8_10_2012_8_42_55_am.jpg

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I need to replace the glass cooktop on my Maytag electric stove


  1. Open oven door and remove two screws that secure top.
  2. Lift up front and slide forward about 8 inches so that you can disconnect two wire couplings.
  3. Place on table upside down(I put newspaper down to catch the broken shards of glass) and remove burner unit (1piece, 4 screws).
  4. Place old burners on new stovetop in the same position as original.
  5. Remove 4 white plastic shims (round) from old stovetop and put on new stovetop.
  6. Tighten all screws and then sit it back on stove (two front tabs fit into slots) and then insert screws into holes and tighten.
  7. Took about 20 minutes, including vacuuming broken glass from inside burners and cleaning grease form crevices between burners and old stovetop.
  8. Wrap old stovetop in the newspapers that are underneath it and place it all in a plastic garbage bag to avoid any broken glass from falling out.

Jan 21, 2010 | Maytag MER5775Q Electric Kitchen Range

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The stove top elements lift up a bit a the oposite side of the element leads leading out of the burner. The burners then pull out of the electrical socket. OUT SIDEWAYS NOT UP.

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LIFT TOP FROM FRONT ABOVE OVEN DOOR. TURN OFF POWER BEFORE SEVICING.

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I have a MGR4452BDW. The burners turn 1/4 turn, then pull out. Yours should too.

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Want to clean under stovetop


Hello
welcome to Fixya,
This stove has sealed burners and there is no need to lift or clean under anything except the burner caps.
You can not get inside the top and you can not lift the top like the old pilot stoves!
When you clean the burners and around rings do not spray or saturate the are and or the igniter element that creates the spark.I'll be back in a moment with your user manual.
first what is the complete model number of your range as written on the sticker in the door jam of the storage compartment down below. left side!

Huuum

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I need the correct model number.If this is the model number than its not in the system (due to age)

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You have an electrical fault in the connection to your stove or in your home. I believe that the neutral connection that is one of the three or four wires connecting your stove is loose or lifted off. Get an electrician in to solve your problem.

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