Question about GE Profile 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Double Oven Gas Range - Stainless-Steel
There are two metal brackets, thin ones, like little wires, one on each side, holding the stove top up. They are held in place by clicking toward you slightly when you life the stove top, push them back toward the wall slightly to release them.
Posted on Nov 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The one thing I don't suggest is using the Ceramabryte product the dealer left with us. It leaves a greasy film. When I get ready to clean my black GE Profile, I pull off the controls to wash separately. Then I lift off the grates, take a single-edge razor blade to scrape anything stuck on (it doesn't scratch), then I use baking soda and scrub and scrub with lots of paper towels. Then I start cleaning off the baking soda with lots and lots more paper towels. There is still a film, but at least it's not greasy. At this point I grab some more dry paper towels, pour on a 3' puddle of rubbing alcohol and wipe it all over the stove top and front. You may have to do this twice. Then, if I don't turn on the hood light's brightest setting, it really doesn't look too bad. I have to do this at least once a week, as I have never had a stove that got so dirty so fast and was such a pain to clean.
FYI, I would never buy another of these stoves. Besides the cleaning issue, there is the fact of having to replace the igniter (glow plug?) twice in the first four years. My old, bottom-of-the line Magic Chef went 25 years with the first replacement not coming until it was about 15 years old. Also, the broiler is unimpressive and steaks, etc., just sort of steam. Can't get a really good crust going. It's a slide-in and the top is very narrow, front to back, because of the slanted control panel on the front, and so you really can't put two large pots or pans on one side. Let's see....oh yes, I ordered the unglazed grates for safety reasons and it came with the procelain glaze. Those were replaced free of charge, though I had to go pick them up. Then the first set of unglazed grates began to rust about six months into use, so had to be replaced (again, no charge at least). Recently I noticed that the inside walls of the oven, where the racks slide, are starting to rust. Finally, the burners are difficult to calibrate, which I really notice when I try to cook rice, which comes out right about 50% of the time.
Now, on top of all this, I have to worry about the glass door exploding?!?! Should I ban my grandchildren from the kitchen? Has anyone from Consumer Reports seen this website?
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
It usually just lifts from the top, some times you may need to engage a lock thing, kinda like when you open the hood on your car.
Posted on Apr 08, 2008
Sorry for apparently not giving feedback earlier, but the gas valve on the one burner has been replaced, and that solved the problem. What apparently caused this is someone forcing the knob in the reverse direction that broke something in the shaft. It sort of worked for a little while, then would not work at all... no gas coming out = no ignition. I replaced the gas valve with the suggestions given above and all is well.
I you are having problem with your unit, check to see if gas is coming out at all from the burners...you will be able to smell it easily. Then find the pinhole on the side of the burner that is used to ignite the burner when the spark is sparking. clean this pinhole out with a toothpick or small wire...really make it clean as small obstructions can prevent it from working. Then clean off the small electrode with fine sand paper and use the toothpick to remove any food particles on the electrode and the insulator around it.
Now looking again at your comment - no ignitor-... if this means no spark, clean the electrodes ...if itstill doesnt work , one of the gurus can specify the component that generates the spark(s) and troubleshooting procedures for that.
To the person who had no gas, that sounds like a main gas valve problem (regulator?)... resend that question to the gurus as you seem to have something blocking the regular flow of gas for the whole unit.
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
SOURCE: Oven not working
This is either a faulty display panel, or a short inside the oven that is causing the panel malfunctioning.
The wirings, elements (both), thermostat contacts inside the oven must be checked for an eventual short. If there is none, replace the control assembly.
You find parts and diagrams here, just enter the correct model number.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
Hi, If you have the same problem with your stove , furnace and water heater, Then you look for things in common that would cause the problem. Any change in the flames is an indication of a change in the fuel/air mix. The item that would be common to all would be the pressure diaphragm. This is not something a customer should work on without a through knowledge of how they work. I think you would be well advised to have a service call. Good Luck!
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
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