Question about TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

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Tork timer 1103

I have a red wire coming from breaker that is hot. A white wire from neutral bar that is not hot and a black wire going to sign i wish to light there is also a red wire that is not wired up to timer. I can get the sign to light up by manually pushing it on but how can i wire it up for the clock to work.

Posted by Anonymous on

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 760 Answers

SOURCE: Not sure how to wire my Tork 1103 timer

48373d7.jpg

The L terminal would be for your "hot" incoming black wire. The X terminal would be for your load outgoing black wire. Connect both white neutral wires to the blank terminal (notice this feeds the timer motor. The other two terminals (1&2) are not necessary if it is a 110V single circuit.

Posted on Aug 03, 2010

SOURCE: Im installing a TORK 1103.. Im hooking this timer

Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)

ef19106.jpg
Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

743d806.jpg

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

  • 5603 Answers

SOURCE: Im installing a TORK 1103..

Your power feed hot should connect to the black, the neutral to the white and the load should tie to the red. The neutral of the load will also connect to the white. The bare copper is the safety grounDING conductor and should tie to the grounds within you box and also to the grounding (green screw of the receptacles). I would NOT use this timer if you do NOT have grounds in the box or metal conduit to the boxes.

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

SOURCE: i have a tork 1103 electromechanical switch. its working but wont

T1103 can be wired many ways.
T1103 has 240V clock motor.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

You are connecting 240Volt pool pump to timer.
Open link below and see wiring diagram: look at bottom left diagram:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/110111021103WIRING.pdf

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Turn power off and separate wires for testing.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Stand on dry boards. Wear dry clothes.
Do not touch anything metal.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
For 240V circuit, two different wires should light up tester. Working from your description, by code, these wires should be black and red.
Each of these wires is Hot wire.
These are called Line wires, wires going to pump are called Load wires.
Hot wires connect to terminals L and 1. This will power the clock motor and dial will rotate as time passes, assuming clock motor is good.

Hots are identified.
Test one of the hot wires to remaining wire, and not to bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. This should be white wire.
Double check that Neutral wire did not light up on bare ground.
Neutral is not connected to any 1103 terminal.

Remaining wires go to Load (pool pump).
By code, assuming Hot Lines are Red and Black, the Red & Black Load wires connect to X terminal and 2 terminal, in either order. One wire on each terminal.
White wire connects to Neutral wire and is covered with wire nut.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Posted on Jan 23, 2011

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1 Answer

Trying to connect a Tork A530 MW timer to a spa tub pump


  1. The white wire (neutral) in your feed cable from the electric panel should be connected to the white (neutral) wire going to the pump.
  2. This switch is wired in 'series' in the hot (black wire) leg. That means one black timer wire connects to the black wire in the feed cable from your electric panel and the other black timer wire connects to the black wire that goes out to the pump.
  3. I the diagram the switch is your timer and the light bulb is the pump. The switch is in series with the pump.
1bfa7fcb-6cdd-4f56-bca6-09482553b815.jpg

Nov 13, 2013 | Tork Spring Wound Interval Timer

1 Answer

I have TORK 1104 , I need control 2- louds (same face) I understood L- hot 1 from breaker, 1- hot 2 from breaker, X- com to loud 1, 2- is com to loud 2. BUD WHERE MUST BE CONNECTED NEUTRAL???


Tork 1104 is 240Volt timer.
Same timer is repackaged and sold as GE 15307
See wiring diagram for single load 240Volt:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/GE-15307-wiring-250.jpg

On the 1104, there is not a separate terminal for Neutral wire.
240Volt circuit does not require neutral wire to complete circuit, so 240Volt timer does not have terminal for neutral.

If you want to control two 240volt loads, then this is not the best timer.
I recommend GE 15207 from Home Depot or Heavy-duty Intermatic GM40 available on-line.

If you want to control two 120Volt loads using Tork 1104, then connect 240Volt lines to to terminals L and 1 as shown in diagram above.
Bring your neutral wire into the box, but do not connect neutral to any terminal.
Each 120Volt load has black and white wires. The whites are for neutral so tie them into the neutral wire using wire nut. Connect black wires to terminals X and 2. If you want both 120Volt loads on same phase, then connect both black wires to terminal X.

Resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15306
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

Sep 25, 2011 | TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

2 Answers

How to wire a 1104 series time switch


8896f6e.jpgTork 1100 series

Tork 1103 can control 120V or 240V Loads (fan light motor)
It can control 1 or 2 different Loads
Tork 1103 has 5 screw terminals
L 1 Unmarked X 2

The Tork 1103 has a 120V clock motor that consumes 3 Watts and costs $3.50 per year to operate.
1) You have to have a white Neutral wire from breaker box connected to Unmarked terminal no matter if you are controlling 120V or 240V Load
2) You have to have a black Hot wire from breaker connected to terminal L no matter what load

If you have 1 Load 120V:
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 no wire
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker
Terminal X black wire going to Load
Terminal 2 no wire
White wire going to Load connects to Unmarked terminal
So 2 white wires are on terminal 2

If you have 2 Loads 120V (Load1 Load2)
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 jumper your black hot from Terminal 1
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker
Terminal X black wire going to Load1
White wire going to Load1 connects to Unmarked terminal
Terminal 2 black wire going to Load2
White wire from Load2 connects to Unmarked terminal
So 3 white wires are on terminal 2

If you have 2 Loads 240V
Terminal L black hot from breaker
Terminal 1 jumper your black hot from Terminal 1
Unmarked terminal white neutral from breaker (no other wires connect to this terminal)
Terminal X black wire going to Load1
White wire going to Load1 connects back to 240V breaker
Terminal 2 black wire going to Load2
White wire from Load2 connects back to 240V breaker

809f911.jpg

If you have more questions, add a comment and I will help

Oct 30, 2010 | TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

1 Answer

I have a 110 Pool Pump and I am trying to wire it into a Tork1103NC timer. From the pool pump I have a black, white and green wire that I need to wire into the timer. Can you tell me what position those...


0fde0d6.jpg

Here is Tork 1103 wired for single load.

1) The green pump wire and bare copper wire go to green ground screw
2) Pump black wire goes to pole 2, the NO (normally open) pole
3) Pump white wire goes to unmarked screw

4) Black from circuit breaker goes to pole L
The T1103 comes with a removable brass bar that connects pole L and pole 1
If that removable brass bar is not there, then add a jumper between pole L and pole 1 as shown in diagram above
5) White neutral from breaker box goes to unmarked pole (all whites connect to unmarked pole)

In your case, pole X is not used. Pole X is NC or normally closed > which means the power is ON continuously until timer turns on, and when timer turns ON, the NC pole turns OFF

Oct 11, 2010 | TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

2 Answers

Im installing a TORK 1103.. Im hooking this timer up to 4 outlets.. I have a black, a white, a red and a copper wire.. my problem is I have to turn the timer on and off manually.. The clock is not...


Tork 1103 is mechanical timer with 125V 3 watt clock motor
Dial on front face rotates when clock has voltage
Dark and light colored pins connected to dial, and turn timer on and off
There is removable brass bar that connects poles L and 1

You have 4 wires:
Red >>> I'm not sure about this wire, is this Hot wire coming from tandem breaker?
Black >>> this is Hot wire coming from tandem breaker
White >>> this is Neutral wire
Bare ground

Test wires:
Please test Black and Red to bare ground to see if these are both Hot
Test Hots to white to confirm this is Neutral
Solution ASSUMES black and red are both Hot, and white is Neutral

You have 2 problems:
Prob 1) Clock does not rotate dial: so clock is bad -or- clock not wired correctly
Prob 2) You are able to control 4 plugs using manual override, which means load wires are correct
However, you want to wire timer 'without red wire' (which is confusing, since red wires are connected to outlets)

ef19106.jpg
Solution Prob 1:
1) The diagram show the N or Neutral wire is connected to Unmarked pole on timer
2) Black Hot has to be connected to pole L
3) Unmarked pole and pole L must be wired with 120V as shown before dial will rotate
4) If wiring is correct and dial does not rotate, then clock motor is bad
5) If dial rotates, check outer rim of dial to see if you have dark and light pins for on-off functions
6) Notice that all the Neutrals connect on Unmarked pole

Solution Prob2:
Are you saying that the household wiring extends beyond the 4 plugs, so when you turn off the 4 plugs, it also turns off more plugs and switches farther down the line? If so, you need to wire plugs with separate hot wire.
Let me review features on timer which might help:
1) There is removable brass bar between poles L and 1
2) If brass bar is removed, then you need Hot wires on both L and 1... but you can jumper between L and 1 with short black wire
3) If brass bar is there, then one Hot connected to either L or 1 will power both clock and load.
4) Timer is DPST double pole single throw ... so you can control 2 different loads ... one load connects to Unmarked pole and pole X ... another load connects to Unmarked pole and pole 2

If brass bar is removed:
Jumper between poles L and 1 ... so only one Hot wire is used on your timer.

Below shows jumper on poles L & 1: hot to load is on pole 2

743d806.jpg

Oct 06, 2010 | TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

1 Answer

Hello can i get the instuctions for tork timer model 1191 please?


According to Intermatic conversion chart, Tork 1191 is same as Tork 1101.

Link to 1101 .pdf
Link to Tork manuals

Tork 1101 is dial-type mechanical timer. Dark pins turn OFF. Light pins turn ON.

Clock motor is 120V
Hot black wire from breaker connects to pole L
Neutral white wire from breaker connects to pole X
Removable bridge connects poles L &1 together
If bridge is gone, Hot from breaker must also connect to pole 1
Black wire to Load connects to pole 2
White wire to Load connects to pole X

Timer can control 240V Load if removable bridge between poles L and 1 is taken out.
Timer clock is still 120V: so 120V Hot still connects to pole L and neutral from breaker connect to poles X
240 V circuit has two hot lines: Hot line 1 and Hot line 2
240 volt Hot line 1 from breaker connects to pole 1
240 volt Hot line 1 to load connects to pole 2
240V Hot line 2 goes directly to Load and does not connect to any pole

Oct 04, 2010 | Hardware & Accessories

2 Answers

I have a Tork 1101. I am confused by wiring diagram. Please help.


http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

1) Tork 1101 has 120Volt clock motor, making this 120Volt timer.

2) 120Volt circuit has 1 black hot wire and 1 white neutral wire and 1 bare ground wire. Ground wires connect to green screw and to each other.

3) You have two cables, each cable has black, white and ground.
One cable arrives from breaker box.
One cable goes to Load (light, fan, motor, pump etc)

4) Cable arriving from breaker box:
a) Hot black connects to terminal L.
There should be a brass connector plate that connects terminals L and 1. If this plate is removed, then add a jumper wire from terminal L to terminal 1.
b) white connects to terminal X

5) Cable going to Load
a) Load black connects to terminal 2
b) Load white connects to terminal X along with other white wire.

Aug 20, 2010 | TORK Variable Cycling Timer 8601

1 Answer

I wired a TORK #1103 - hot (black) from the panel to terminal 1 - neutral (white) from the panel to terminal X - hot to the GFCI recepticle terminal 2 - neutral to the GFCI recepticle terminal X. The GFCI...


If you look at your diagram, the neutral connects to the box with no number on it. This also supplies the nuetral to the timer motor. There is no need to switch the neutral conductor (white)
Connect line (incoming hot) to terminal L connect the load(black) out to the GCI on terminal X. Put both neutral white wires on the terminal with the square box.(this terminal should have the other timer motor wire already connected to it.

Aug 11, 2010 | TORK Digital Interval Timer Ssa100r-24

1 Answer

Not sure how to wire my Tork 1103 timer


48373d7.jpg

The L terminal would be for your "hot" incoming black wire. The X terminal would be for your load outgoing black wire. Connect both white neutral wires to the blank terminal (notice this feeds the timer motor. The other two terminals (1&2) are not necessary if it is a 110V single circuit.

Aug 03, 2010 | TORK Digital Interval Timer Ssa100r-24

1 Answer

I have a tork 1103 electromechanical switch. its working but wont


T1103 can be wired many ways.
T1103 has 240V clock motor.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Tork-timers-and-manuals.html#1101

You are connecting 240Volt pool pump to timer.
Open link below and see wiring diagram: look at bottom left diagram:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/110111021103WIRING.pdf

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Turn power off and separate wires for testing.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Stand on dry boards. Wear dry clothes.
Do not touch anything metal.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
For 240V circuit, two different wires should light up tester. Working from your description, by code, these wires should be black and red.
Each of these wires is Hot wire.
These are called Line wires, wires going to pump are called Load wires.
Hot wires connect to terminals L and 1. This will power the clock motor and dial will rotate as time passes, assuming clock motor is good.

Hots are identified.
Test one of the hot wires to remaining wire, and not to bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. This should be white wire.
Double check that Neutral wire did not light up on bare ground.
Neutral is not connected to any 1103 terminal.

Remaining wires go to Load (pool pump).
By code, assuming Hot Lines are Red and Black, the Red & Black Load wires connect to X terminal and 2 terminal, in either order. One wire on each terminal.
White wire connects to Neutral wire and is covered with wire nut.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Jul 15, 2010 | TORK Digital Interval Timer Ssa100r-24

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