Question about Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer
Washer bangs and seems to rock when in the spin cycle. when empty i can spin the drum but i can also rock it. Any ideas?
Sounds like the bearing in the drum has bust but shouldnt be too expensive to replace.
Posted on Nov 19, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Unless your front loader is set firmly on concrete
and leveled to perfection, the force of a heavy wash load spinning in
excess of 1000rpm will create a bit of vibration and noise.A firm footing is your best defense against to much movement.
Also due to the earlier movements during the spin cycle, the shocks that are used to dampen the spin cycle might have been broken or damaged.
If the problem persists inspite of proper levelling, please do check for the shocks or might have them replaced them for good.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
I have the same problem...the solution is called new washer. I was told it could be overhauled to the tune about $600...barrings are going out. Mine is just 7 years old and that's disappointing.
Posted on Apr 03, 2009
2 possible issues with your washer.
1 or both the support shocks or springs have broken
the drum would look off center even when empty
or rear bearring has worn out.
this is a very common problem with the fridgidaire washer... (this kenmore is a frigidaire model)
problem is caused by very hard water (well water) or improper use of detergent. this machine uses a High efficency type detergent, marked by "HE" on the detergent container
Posted on May 27, 2009
First, see the Sears Parts Site for your washer.
Look at the section on the Brake, Clutch, Gearcase and Pump.
Top load direct drive washers such as yours (made by Whirlpool) use a number of devices to ensure that the motor and transmission don't destroy themselves.
One of the main devices is the Motor Coupler. This is a piece between the motor and transmission that is designed to fail if the motor or transmission jams. It consists of three pieces.
Two of the pieces (plastic) fit on the motor and transmission drive shafts and have three prongs. The prongs fit into a center rubber piece that is designed to frail if necessary.
If the Motor coupler fails, the machine will likely still pump water out since the other shaft of the motor is connected to the pump.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet on the washer and how to pull the pump, motor and (if necessary) the transmission.
It's not as hard as it may seem. It's also best to have someone help you because it's easier to pull the pump, motor and transmission if the washer is laid down on its' back.
The clutch is connected to the top of the transmission.
You don't have to pull the drive tube in order to check the motor coupler and clutch.
If the Motor Coupler is broken follow these steps to replace it:
See the following:
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the Clutch is broken, or the springs are broken they are an easy replacement.
If the Motor Coupler and clutch are OK, I's pull the agitators and the drive tube although they seldom break.
In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".
Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,
You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)
I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.
When putting the washer back together, make sure that you align the tabs on the drive tube with the slots on the drive block.
If all are fine, it's likely that you have a transmission problem. I still wouldn't trash the washer since most parts in the transmission are easily (but messy since it holds 15 oz. of oil) and a lot less than a new washer or $170 transmission.
As an aside, the Sears site has part numbers and prices for the Motor coupler and a clutch rebuild kit (a lot less than a new clutch). You'll have to decide if the costs are worth it.
One of the good things about these washers is that they are relatively easy to fix.
Posted on Dec 02, 2009
I have a Kenmore 417, when it gets to the final rinse cycle the drum starts beating onto the left side of the washer and it leaks water
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
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