The dovetail portion of the opener will not line up with the opener

You can use Devcon two ton epoxy to repair it..clean the parts very well..sand it clean. clean it with acetone....mix it in equal parts.. and align and seat the dovetail carefully .. hold in place until it sets...

Devcon 0 85 oz 5 Minute Epoxy

You first have to get 2 tube rings. These must be the right size for your scope.

http://www.optcorp.com/orion-116mm-id-orion-telescope-tube-rings-7372.html

They will have hinges and clamp screws and at least one other hole for attaching to a dovetail rail. Then you need a rail, sized appropriately for your scope. They come in several lengths and 2 geometries, Vixen and Losmandy. Almost certainly you will need the first one.

http://www.optcorp.com/aa-vdup11-vdup11-vixen-style-11inch-dovetail-universal-plate.html

There are some scopes with very fat tubes, like Schmidt-Cassegrains, where the rail attaches directly to the tube fittings.

http://www.optcorp.com/celestron-c6-a-xlt-schmidt-cassegrain-optical-tube-assembly-91010.html
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I just did this on my Pro-heat last week to replace the pump. Its a different model number, but is setup exactly the same. There are four (4) Phillips-head screws that hold the bottom in place, the heads are accessible from the top side. Two are in front, directly through the clear plastic vacuum shoot. The other two are towards the back, under where the upright portion of the cleaner attaches to the bottom. There are a number of hoses that are attached to both the top and the bottom portions, and they don't have a lot of slack. So be careful that you do something to help you remember where they connect (mark them, photo, etc). Then you will have to "persuade" the bottom part to separate from the top.

All in all, it was a pain in the backside, and it was even less fun getting to go back together. The little hoses and wires must stay in the channels to keep from being pinched or kinked, and they didn't want to cooperate! Bottom line, I got it apart in about 2 minutes but it took me 30+ minutes to get it back together.

If you don't mind me asking, why do you need to pull the bottom off?

You must have the correct rings for your base. If the scope has rimfire dovetail rings already attached, it should be easy. Remove the 4 setscrews on the top of the receiver, install the dovetail mount (use blue locktite and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS MORE THAN 10 IN/LBS! Otherwise you may strip the threads in the receiver!).Loosen the clamps, place the scope on the dovetail mount and tighten snugly.

If it has weaver mounts, you will need to install a weaver rail to your receiver. Remove the 4 setscrews on the top of the receiver, install the weaver mount (use blue locktite and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS MORE THAN 10 IN/LBS! Otherwise you may strip the threads in the receiver!). Install the rings in the weaver slots, tighten snugly.

Go Here:

http://www.outdoorpros.com/How-To-Guides/How-To-Zero-A-Rifle-Scope/5

for info on how to zero your red-dot after you have it mounted.

Sounds like the defrost heater is bad . Part number WR51X10055 . You will need to remove the 2 or 4 screws , holding the lower portion of the inside rear freezer panel . The heater , is attached to the bottom of the coils , held on by 2 screws . You should also replace the defrost thermostat , Part number WR50X10068 . This is the 1 " cylinder , clipped to the top of the coils , with a blue and pink wire attached to it . This bimetal (defrost thermostat) , cuts the heater off , when/if the temp behind the panel gets to 140 degrees , therefore , keeping the food from defrosting .

The hinges on these presarios attach in different ways. On some there are two screws, one on each side that screws up through the bottom and into the bottom portion of the hinge. Then, the other screws are under the power trim piece. In some cases this can just be pried off carefully, but on other models, there are a series of screws inder the battery and that needs to be removed first. Write back with an exact model number and I can pull up a guide for you., The other screws that will need to be tightened are the ones behind the bezel of the LCD.

Door panel is attached to door frame on the sides and bottom perimeter with push-in fasteners. There are screws that attach the arm rest/door pull to the frame , and also the panel trim around the door open/close handle.

Locate and remove all screws.

The perimeter of the panel is popped away from the door frame by inserting a flat blade screw driver between the panel and the frame.
There is a trim tool for this that works better than a screw driver. Pretty inexpensive from an auto parts store. Once the sides and bottom are free, the panel is lifted up to disengage it from the top portion of the frame where the panel is attached to the inside of the window trim.

Be careful not to pull or yank the panel too far out because of the wires that are attached to the inside of the panel.

Those plastic fasteners are replaceable, should any break when they are popped out (again, auto parts store carries these).
Hope this helps...

This panel is held in by plastic snaps. After all the screws are ou it pops off not a sliding type. Hopefully your window rolls down it is easier. !st take the plastic cover off of latch mechanism in rear of penal On the seat switch you'll find the top wooden portion pulls off grab from the bottom. then there is a bracket that unscrews and the seat switch wood pops out. next open the armrest and you'll see a plastic cover held in by a small black screw. remove and then remove the big screw behind it, I believe there is also a screw in the front of the map pocket and possibly 2 more in the center. pop out the light at the bottom of the panel and un clip wire harness. Next pop pout the top side view mirror cover. I believe there may be a couple of plastic grommets on grab handle that pop out giving you access to the screws. Next pop off the door panel by grabbing at the bottom and pulling outwards. be carefully because there is a vacuum line attached to the map pocket lid locking mechanism. once panel is loose un clip vac line and electrical and grab handle linkage. you should then be able to remove panel completely. i do not have an sl in front of me so look very carefully for any screws I forgot to mention. This is the best I can do from memory. good luck

This may not be related to your jig. It may be movement in the vertical axis resulting from:

1. The router bearings being worn allowing the bit to move up and down.
2. The router bearings worn allowing the spindle to deflect side to side which changes the bit height slightly (cuts on the edges, making the cut a hair deeper).
3. The router collet or router spindle worn, allowing the bit to move during cuts.
4. The jig guide plate deflecting or no longer flat.
5. Excess vibration in the router causing the wood to move in the jig.

To check the bearings; try routing the cut with a straight bit first to clear the wood for the dovetail bit. Then cut with the dovetail bit (a new one preferably) using very light feed pressure. Is the joint tighter? If so then the bearings are worn. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Check the end-play by pulling on the router shaft, does it wiggle slightly in and out? If so this is your problem. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Be sure the wood is flat and the faces planed parallel, if they aren't the dovetail line will be straight but when you assemble there will be slight end gaps in sections of the dovetail.