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The dovetail will not line up to install to opener

The bottom screw will not bite, because it seems that the dovetail will not line up with the opener

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SOURCE: The dovetail portion of the opener will not line up with the opener

If you have it lined up correctly it should work,if not try a slightly longer screw.

Posted on Nov 19, 2013

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How do I attach telescope tube to eq dovetail mount?


You first have to get 2 tube rings. These must be the right size for your scope.

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They will have hinges and clamp screws and at least one other hole for attaching to a dovetail rail. Then you need a rail, sized appropriately for your scope. They come in several lengths and 2 geometries, Vixen and Losmandy. Almost certainly you will need the first one.

http://www.optcorp.com/aa-vdup11-vdup11-vixen-style-11inch-dovetail-universal-plate.html

There are some scopes with very fat tubes, like Schmidt-Cassegrains, where the rail attaches directly to the tube fittings.

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The dovetail portion of the opener will not line up with the opener


If you have it lined up correctly it should work,if not try a slightly longer screw.

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You must have the correct rings for your base. If the scope has rimfire dovetail rings already attached, it should be easy. Remove the 4 setscrews on the top of the receiver, install the dovetail mount (use blue locktite and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS MORE THAN 10 IN/LBS! Otherwise you may strip the threads in the receiver!).Loosen the clamps, place the scope on the dovetail mount and tighten snugly.

If it has weaver mounts, you will need to install a weaver rail to your receiver. Remove the 4 setscrews on the top of the receiver, install the weaver mount (use blue locktite and DO NOT TIGHTEN THE SCREWS MORE THAN 10 IN/LBS! Otherwise you may strip the threads in the receiver!). Install the rings in the weaver slots, tighten snugly.

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This may not be related to your jig. It may be movement in the vertical axis resulting from:

  1. The router bearings being worn allowing the bit to move up and down.
  2. The router bearings worn allowing the spindle to deflect side to side which changes the bit height slightly (cuts on the edges, making the cut a hair deeper).
  3. The router collet or router spindle worn, allowing the bit to move during cuts.
  4. The jig guide plate deflecting or no longer flat.
  5. Excess vibration in the router causing the wood to move in the jig.

To check the bearings; try routing the cut with a straight bit first to clear the wood for the dovetail bit. Then cut with the dovetail bit (a new one preferably) using very light feed pressure. Is the joint tighter? If so then the bearings are worn. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Check the end-play by pulling on the router shaft, does it wiggle slightly in and out? If so this is your problem. Have the router serviced or replace it.

Be sure the wood is flat and the faces planed parallel, if they aren't the dovetail line will be straight but when you assemble there will be slight end gaps in sections of the dovetail.

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