Question about Pyle PRO PMX802M 8-Channel 800 Watts Powered Mixer w/ MP3 Input

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Need schematic Ground wire disconnected from PCB on the heat sink. Need to see where to reconnect it

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I just posted a solution for this. WTF?

The sink is aluminum or copper. Just secure the ground wire to any screw that is nearby, or where you see a scorch mark. If you could read a schematic, you would already know such a simple answer by looking at the board.

Posted on Nov 26, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Wiring diagram for Cocao-Sox Covert Spy Hidden Hat Camera.There are three wires that are attached on the large PC board with a Large IC and next to it there is a smaller IC there is also a heat sink...


Since you have meter, check for this:

Red is mostly used for supply voltage; likely 5VDC.
Black is mostly ground.
Blue is often used for a switched supply line.

Good luck-

Dec 25, 2014 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Pyle PMX802M powered mixer blew at an event. Looking for schematic or picture of wiring for power supply to reconnect Ground wire to PCB on heat sink


If it is just a ground wire, you could solder it to any screw mount on the board or where the scorch marks are. What do you need to see?

Besides... did you really expect to have 800 watts of power as per Federal Trade Commission specifications with just a cheap piece of equipment?

Nov 19, 2013 | Pyle PRO PMX802M 8-Channel 800 Watts...

1 Answer

The sound on the TV completely stopped in the middle of a program. There is no sound at all now, even when the cable TV is disconnected. I tried checking all cords and wires to the speaker and TV.


Hello, I am John at J. D. Electronics. You have a D6 model. This is caused by a defective spacer under the A / V board. This is not recommended for owner repair, since it involves removal of other PCBs, Sheilds and "spacers" and connectors. On the A / V board ( the one with all the jacks ), is an audio IC that normally runs fairly hot. Therefore, the MFG had to use an aluminum heat sink on the top and bottom of the IC. The problem is that there is a "clay like " spacer pressed between the bottom PCB at the audio IC and an aluminum plate, or heat sink, underneath that sets against the metal back of the LCD panel. Here is what happened; The "spacer " turns into a "sticky goop" causing the whole pcb move towards the Heat Sink under the A / V board. This causes the connections at A / V pcb at the audio IC to come in contact with the bottom aluminum heat sink, thus shorting out the audio IC and then no sound or popping noises. This is common on the D4 and D6 models.We charge about $325 for this repair since it is very time consuming. I have repaired dozens of these sets with this problem. I hope this helps! John

Nov 22, 2010 | Sharp Aquos LC-42D62U 42 in. LCD HDTV

1 Answer

Audio protect off


hi,
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Checking the speaker cabling for any shortcuts and eventually disconnecting all cables did not solve the problem.
So you opened the case and disconnected the pcb where the speaker outputconnectors are soldered to. This small board also had the speaker on/off relais (light blue). you should disconnected the main connector (white) from the main pcb and turned the amplifier on again: problem of 'protect; will be solved ....
So you should checked for short cuts in the pcb, removed the dust and made sure the wires (red black black white) were not touching eachother; the isolation can be damaged by the internal heat and the wires are routed so that they touch internal components.
After reconnecting the main connector the receiver should be okay...

May 26, 2010 | Philips MX5100VR System

1 Answer

Picture shaped like a bowtie, (shrinking)


Hello, This is your classic convergence Amplifier IC problem. Here is a way to deal with it. These are generic instrustions: 1) Get the schematic/service manual for this TV (You will need it because it contains the part numbers and component values you will need for replacement) 2) On the schematic/service manual locate the convergence amplifiers (STK392-110, 120, 150) and the biasing resistors (Write the resistor values down from the schematic) 3) Unplug the TV and remove the rear cover to expose the electronic circuitry. 4) Using the schematic/service manual find the physical location of the two convergence amplifiers (Usually attached to a big metal silver in color heat sink) (Basically it will look like two big black six sided flat modules with a lot of pins on the bottom (18-22 to be exact)). 5) After finding the heat sink and amplifiers remove the screws or the tension bar holding the amplifiers in place. 6) Using a soldering iron and a de-soldering device (either a de-soldering pump or de-soldering wick) remove the solder from the pins of the amplifiers and biasing resistors that protrude from the solder side of the circuit board. (Take into mind that you may have to remove the board in order to do this, use the instructions in the schematic/service manual to do this, and make sure you mark everything you remove to make sure you have a guide as to how to put it back) 7) After removing the solder from the pins off the amplifiers and the biasing resistors, remove the resistors making a list of the value, part number, and location on the board (all of this should be in the schematic/service manual). Then remove the two convergence amplifier modules taking care so as not to damage the circuit board. NOTE: The heat sink compound (the white goopy stuff) may have hardened and caused the module to stick to the heat sink, you will have to gently pry the module away from the heat sink, I have used a light application of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve the heat sink paste. 8) Once the modules are loose from the heat sink, you can gradually remove them from the circuit board. 9) Clean the heat sink off by using the alcohol and a heavy paper towel (remove all of the heat sink paste, and yes this is messy) At this point you have removed the two convergence amplifier modules and the biasing resistors and cleaned the heat sink. Now you will have to use your schematic/service manual to find the part locations, values and numbers you will need to replace the old parts I suggest replacing the biasing resistors first. 1) Sort out the resistors you will need and as stated in the schematic/service manual and replace them according to the schematic/service manual locations and part numbers. 2) Solder the components (resistors) in place making sure not to short out anything in the process. 3) Apply heat sink paste to the metal side of the modules one at a time and the put the modules into the circuit board lining up the screw holes of the modules with the screw holes in the heat sink, use the removed screws or tension bar to hold the modules down once in place in the circuit board and on the heat sink. 4) Solder the pins of both amplifier modules to the circuit board, taking care not to short out anything. 5) Reinstall the board to the TV, reconnect all cables removed (DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING) If all went well the convergence amps should be working, and you will need to realign the convergence of your TV, I suggest using the AUTO Convergence feature of your TV (Use the instructions in the schematic/service manual). All should be good now. Now these instructions are generic in nature but can be use for a number of Models of Projection TVs. In addition to this also make sure your Yoke transformers on your CRTs are functioning as they should, check the voltages applied to them. I hope this helps, Thank you, Shuttle83 http://www.electron-age-technologies-llc.com

Jun 10, 2009 | JVC AV-56WP30 56" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Mackie 1400 overload lights on


hey Ron
use a larger ground wire it will stop the overload you may have to place it somewhere new but its the size of the wire that trips the overload feature too small and amp will go and protect itself (bigger ground better sound)
hope this helped

Feb 28, 2009 | Bob Mackie Mackie M-1400i Power Amplifier...

1 Answer

I need to unplug and move a built-in Maytag dishwasher


Follow these steps:

1. Locate the electrical service breaker for your appliance and turn it off at the breaker panel. If it is plugged in by a serivce outlet, unplug the unit.
2. Turn off the water source under the sink.
3. Disconnect the drain line under the sink.
4. Remove the lower panel under the dishwasher door.
5. Locate the small electrical junction box under the dishwasher and disconnect the wires leads. Remember, standard household wiring is as follows: BLACK (HOT - 110-120VAC), WHITE (NEUTRAL - 0VAC, GREEN (or bare copper) is GROUND. Make sure you reconnect the wires in this fashion with wire lug nuts. If you have a local outlet plug you may leave the wiring instact.
6. Locate the fill valve (Usually on the left hand side of the dishwasher). This is where the water supply line connects. Disconnect the water supply line from the fill valve.
7. The dishwasher should have a couple of mounting screws located where the top of the dishwasher cabinet meets the underside of the cabinet.
8. With everything removed, the dishwasher should now be free and slide out from under the cabinet.

Let me know if you have further questions. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: You can also remove the water supply line at the fitting under the sink if it makes things easier.

Jul 24, 2008 | Maytag Dishwashers

2 Answers

Convergence problem


Hello nursecmp,

You have a convergence amplifier problem. Now you have two choices: 1) fix it yourself or 2) Get it fix by a qualified TV repair person. Granted if you choose the latter, you will spend about $200-$500 depending on the shop. So as you stated you would want to do this yourself. OK, I will not get into the problems with this, rather I'll give you the basic procedure and the you can search fixya for a more in depth solution (I'll show you how to do this after the basic instruction on how to replace the Convergence Amplifiers (I rarely give these instructions) Here goes:

1) Get the schematic/service manual for this TV (You will need it because it contains the part numbers and component values you will need for replacement)

2) On the schematic/service manual locate the convergence amplifiers (STK392-110, 120, 150) and the biasing resistors (Write the resistor values down from the schematic)

3) Unplug the TV and remove the rear cover to expose the electronic circuitry.

4) Using the schematic/service manual find the physical location of the two convergence amplifiers (Usually attached to a big metal silver in color heat sink) (Basically it will look like two big black six sided flat modules with a lot of pins on the bottom (18-22 to be exact)).

5) After finding the heat sink and amplifiers remove the screws or the tension bar holding the amplifiers in place.

6) Using a soldering iron and a de-soldering device (either a de-soldering pump or de-soldering wick) remove the solder from the pins of the amplifiers and biasing resistors that protrude from the solder side of the circuit board. (Take into mind that you may have to remove the board in order to do this, use the instructions in the schematic/service manual to do this, and make sure you mark everything you remove to make sure you have a guide as to how to put it back)

7) After removing the solder from the pins off the amplifiers and the biasing resistors, remove the resistors making a list of the value, part number, and location on the board (all of this should be in the schematic/service manual). Then remove the two convergence amplifier modules taking care so as not to damage the circuit board. NOTE: The heat sink compound (the white goopy stuff) may have hardened and caused the module to stick to the heat sink, you will have to gently pry the module away from the heat sink, I have used a light application of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve the heat sink paste.

8) Once the modules are loose from the heat sink, you can gradually remove them from the circuit board.

9) Clean the heat sink off by using the alcohol and a heavy paper towel (remove all of the heat sink paste, and yes this is messy)

At this point you have removed the two convergence amplifier modules and the biasing resistors and cleaned the heat sink.

Now you will have to use your schematic/service manual to find the part locations, values and numbers you will need to replace the old parts I suggest replacing the biasing resistors first.

1) Sort out the resistors you will need and as stated in the schematic/service manual and replace them according to the schematic/service manual locations and part numbers.

2) Solder the components (resistors) in place making sure not to short out anything in the process.

3) Apply heat sink paste to the metal side of the modules one at a time and the put the modules into the circuit board lining up the screw holes of the modules with the screw holes in the heat sink, use the removed screws or tension bar to hold the modules down once in place in the circuit board and on the heat sink.

4) Solder the pins of both amplifier modules to the circuit board, taking care not to short out anything.

5) Reinstall the board to the TV, reconnect all cables removed (DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING)


If all went well the convergence amps should be working, and you will need to realign the convergence of your TV, I suggest using the AUTO Convergence feature of your TV (Use the instructions in the schematic/service manual).

All should be good now.

Now these instructions are generic in nature but can be use for a number of Models of Projection TVs.

Jul 18, 2008 | Philips Magnavox 51MP392H Rear Projection...

4 Answers

Power light switches to red.


I suggest rechecking the speaker wiring in case there is a small "whisker" of wire touching either the case or adjacent terminal, also check the speaker end of the wires for same. Do you have a pet? I have seen wires chewed partly through by cats (& rabbits)! See the information from the manual below: http://207.228.230.231/manual/NAD-C370.pdf

Jul 26, 2007 | NAD C370 2-Channel Amplifier

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