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It would appear to me that you have lost the 24 volt power supply to the thermostat. In referencing the manuals for this thermostat, available @ www.honeywell.com, I've found that when the thermostat is not connected to the wall plate (plate mounted on the wall, that the thermostat either snaps or screws into), it will display the -AC. This being said, either the thermostat is loose on the wall currently, or your 24 volt transformer has died. Hope this helps.
you need to make sure your humidity level in the house isnt higher then what your humidifier will provide at any givin outdoor temp. this chart is in the owners manual. you cant remove the wires going to the ODS or it will give an error unless you have a resistor to put in its place. Anyway if the humidifier works in test mode according to AA it works so you may have higher humidity than you think, the highest your gonna get is 45% as the temp outside drops it will allow less humidity so it doesnt cause window condinsation (property damage) here is a copy of the chart. the #s on the left are the dial setting
TABLE 2 – % Relative Humidity Guide
Outdoor Temperature (°F)
-10°F 0°F 10°F 20°F 30°F 40°F
1 10% 10% 10% 15% 20% 25%
2 10% 10% 15% 20% 25% 30%
3 10% 15% 20% 25% 30% 35%
4 15% 20% 25% 30% 35% 40%
5 20% 25% 30% 35% 40% 45%
6 25% 30% 35% 40% 45% 45%
7 30% 35% 40% 45% 45% 45%
Go to honeywell.com
Under red welcome sign
Bottom red highlighted box literature/image search
Type in thermostat model number
Click on arrow to right
Then click on the PDF files owners manual / installation instructions
The outdoor thermostat senses the the temp of the outside air, and adjust the boiler water temp according to what it knows is best. The reason that the boiler is running longer is the old boiler used to be constantly sending 180ish degree water to the baseboard, now that water may only be 140ish degrees. The idea behind this is to reduce off cycle heat loss, as the greater the temp difference between the air temp and water temp, the quicker you loss heat. The theory in boiler run time is this, the less times it starts and stops, and the long run times will give you the best efficiency. Hope this answers you questions.
I corrected the problem...RH is rising nicely!! Installed by "professionals" on my Trane XV90....I redid their wiring and now have the following setup...
600A water supply coming from hot water line. Removed orifice inside incoming feed tube. control incoming water flow from saddlevalve on hot water supply ( make sure its a nice solid flow, no drips, but no "force" too it either)..enough to insure entire evaporator unit is wet and water is slightly flowing out of bottom to drain.
I also have it wired to run when ever the furnace blower is on. Heat or no heat. XV90 is variable speed, and by doing this the 600a is always adding moisture, until it reaches correct RH%
Also, I disconnected the outdoor temp sensor. I went to Radio Shack and bought a 47K ohm resistor ( 1/2 watt....4 pack for 99 cents). Installed that in place of outdoor sensor...now runs in manual mode. Have unit currently set to number 5.
Yes you will want the out door sensor. The reason why is it is going to read the average temp outside and will adjust what you hum is producing due to the temp outside, that is so you dont cause condensation on your window. You can run it in manuel or auto but i would strongly reccomend to run it in auto.