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John deere x585

Bucket loader is loosing lifting power

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: john deere 111 mower deck. Lift is in stuck in highest position

Looked up detailed isometric diagram w/ parts denoted on John Deere website. FixYa website was a litele misleading. I did not realize that accessing a question posted "for free" would cost me something to get the answer. It's kind of like askin a neighbor as a neighbor to give you a hand and then he sends a bill.
Thanks but no thanks

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

mattofilms
  • 110 Answers

SOURCE: 2020 john deere diesel tractor with j-d 36# loader

Sounds like you need more hydraulic oil - Or like you said the transmission screen (dirty).
Where it is ??

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: john deere runs then stops

I fixed my mower stalling issues on the L111 by loosening the gas cap. I ultimately drilled a hole in the gas cap and screened the hole. Sounds ridiculous but without that venting the engine would run approximately 20 mins and die. It was also much more difficult to start the next time. Something else to pass along to whomever might view this... I replaced the cranking battery with a battery that had allot more cranking amps and I no longer had hard start issues ( this was after I vented the gas cap). Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 11, 2009

nova2nv
  • 197 Answers

SOURCE: john deere tractor x585 not getting 12 volts at fuel pump

To check pump u remove fender deck,unhook connector, put 12 volt power to it.I have seen pumps react to a swift kick to the fuel tank,NO JOKE.You first have to check fuses,2 on control board and early x585 machines had a single red wire near control board that was only for fuel pump.Remove right side air screen and check for voltage on the relay closest to the radiator.Red wires #231/232 feed your fuel pump relay.Current flows from that relay #655 pink wire and goes to your fuel pump .Also check#215 grey wire {fuseable link}coming from starter post,they WILL burn out,it goes to #221 red wire with inline fuse and feeds rear of the 2 relays,that is your EFI relay.You have 3 fuseable links coming off starter post,check all of them.

Posted on Jan 01, 2010

wfservices
  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: i need to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder on a john

  1. This cylinder is not to hard to disassemble.
  2. Place upright in vise or suitable bracing.
  3. Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
  4. Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
  5. Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
  6. Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
  7. If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
  8. with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
  9. Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
  10. Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
  11. Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
  12. The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
  13. When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
  14. You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

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