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Subwoofer problems I recently purchased a second hand subwoofer in a box. I then bought an amplifier for it, which I was assured had more than enough power. I tried wiring it up to one of my friends sound systems, through which he was running a subwoofer of his own fine, and the "Protect" light on his amplifier came on. No matter which way we wired it, the light came on. The only diagnosis from it was that there was a short circuit. After spending around 4 hours to set up my own amplifier perfectly, I tried it on mine. Still... Problems. My amplifier is (I think, according to the box) a 450-watt JBL mono-block (That's what the sales person told me, though it has 2 channels?). He also mentioned something about RMS after I asked if 450 watts was enough for a 1200 watt subwoofer. I tried wiring the subwoofer to my amp a few ways. I wired it parallel, running one channel to the first voice coil and the other channel to the second voice coil (Both voice coils are next to each other, not on opposite sides). After doing this, regardless of how much I turned the power input up or the level I set the bass to, all I ever got was a slight rumble from the subwoofer. I then bridged the channel and ran them to only one of the voice coils on my subwoofer... And it started smoking. The place I bought the subwoofer from have told me they don't do warranties on them as people keep trying to return ones they've blown up themselves. I'm too afraid to keep trying to get mine working in case I actually do blow it up... Any help would be much appreciated!!! P.S. HELP!

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  • KYWN Oct 09, 2007

    The subwoofer started smoking, I think it was coming from some fabric part. Yeah I know about positives and negatives, black and red, but this has totally got me beat. I'll go take a few photos later today and post them so you can see what's really going on.

    On the back of my CD player, it has two plugs (AV or RV? Or something like that), a positive and negative labelled "F" and another set labelled "SW" (This is where I plugged them in, assuming SW means subwoofer). They currently run to my amplifier to the "Input" labelled plugs. I had someone briefly look at this and they said it was correct; just making sure though. I've wired everything on the amplifier correctly, using a wiring kit I paid $20 for (Bear in mind I'm actually Australian, this was the first site I chose to seek help from)...

    I read some information off the internet and tried a new wiring setup. My amplifier has 2 channels. I ran one of the channels to one of the voice coils, and the other channel to the other voice coil. The subwoofer worked, though it did stuff all. Just tiny little rumbles. It didn't matter how high my bass went up, it only ever slightly improved. My stupid 6 inch speakers couldn't handle the bass up that high so that's not an option. Even turning the power input up on the amplifier did nothing, just made the lights on it flicker (I think because it was having it's power drained).

    Will post images soon... Thanks for your help!

  • KYWN Oct 09, 2007

    There's 3 little adjustable knobs on one end of the amplifier... One is "Bass boost", another is "LPF" and the last is "Power input". So I'm guessing from that last comment I should turn the LPF one up as much as possible? Sorry if I sound dumb, but how do I change the crossover settings to midrange? Thanks aswell to whoever added that last comment :)

  • KYWN Oct 09, 2007

    OK thanks, I'll go give it a shot now. As for the wiring, what should I do there? My amplifier has two channels and my subwoofer has two voice coils.

  • KYWN Oct 09, 2007

    Thanks heaps for all your help. It's only lunch time here, so I got tons of time to mess around with this. I'll e-mail you with the results.

    OInce again, thanks heaps!

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It sounds like you have a blown sub. Buy a new one from a reputable store and have them install it for you. That way if it doesn't work you won't have to pay for it. Also, be careful hooking a blown sub to a good amp. You can burn up your new amp that way.

Guy
TNT Pro Audio

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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  • Master
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What started smoking the Sub or the amp?

Posted on Oct 08, 2007

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  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Oct 08, 2007

    The 450 Watt amp will drive a 1200 watt sub. Usually sub have a red and black lug to tie to to help keep the plus and minus right. You should also have plus and minus on your amp. Red is Plus and Black is minus. Follow the colors if you have them. Turn your gain down first after you get the system wired. Crank the gain up unitl you get distortion and turn it back a little. Tune your crossover downto 50hz or less.


    'I sincerely hope this helps you. I am running blind since I am not on the scene with you. It may help if you send me a picture of the terminals on the amp and of the terminals of the sub.

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Oct 08, 2007

    my email is Repairtech@playstationclinic.com

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Oct 09, 2007

    Ok Mate,

    Try adjusting the crossover settings to midrange. Also set the Amp to Run LPF or Low pass Filter. You may be cutting your bass out with the High pass Filter, or crossover.

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Oct 09, 2007

    I think turning the LPF low pass filter up is a good thing. You should be able to start and get good bass with the LPF turned fully Clockwise. If you want you sub to play nothing but low frequency bass, you crank the LPF counterclockwise

    Bass Boost is something I would adjust during testing with music playing. Start the music, and start turn it up until you get distortion, then turn it back a little till the distortion goes away.

    Power Input is not familiar , but best guess is to adjust it to midrange. midrange is halfway between Fully Clockwise and Fully Counterclockwise.

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Oct 09, 2007

    Ok Mate,

    This is the right way to hook up a Dual voice coil.

    Red wire + to Coil 1 +
    Coil 1 - to coil 2 +
    Black - to Coil 2-

    You should have a diagram at the terminal to show where to hook up a bridge. If not let me know. You amy have to do this.

    Channel 1 + to coil1 +
    Channel 1 - to Channel 2 +
    Chqannel 2 - to Coil 2 -
    jump a wire from coil 1 - to coil 2 +

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Oct 09, 2007

    Ok mate, good luck, I am signing off, it is after midnight and gotta sleep now. I live on East coast USA in South Carolina.

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Good afternoon, I recently bought a SA VE325 speaker set it contained a subwoofer, 4 little boxes and a mid-large box which you haeb have tpo piuyt above uyour tv. Now the problem is we have no cCENTER to...



Hello there looking at the manual i would assume that the mid-large box is actually your centre speaker.

Did you mean that there are no connections left on the back of your amplifier? For a centre speaker this system uses all passive speakers apart from the subwoofer which has a built in amplifier for just the subwoofer, your hifi or home cinema amplifier would need to have at least 5 separate channels to operate the centre speaker as well as the front and rear speakers.

Ideally you would need a 5.1 channel or 5 channel amplifier with subwoofer pre output, any would do but to make things simple one with a digital optical or coaxial input would be best as this can easily carry multi-channel audio with just one connector.

The other alternative if your amplifier does not have a centre speaker output are:



· to get another basic mono stereo amplifier to power the centre speaker on its own however if your main amplifier does not have a pre out connector for a centre speaker you will have to change the volume independently on both amplifiers



· don

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Tip

Car audio installation... important


when installing a sub woofer and amplifier to your vehicle always make sure that you also install a wired fuse in between your battery and amplifier without this problems may occur...























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If your subwoofer does not work on your altec lansing speakers,
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I have an ADA-885 system and bought it brand new back in
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You can test the ohms of the speaker with a multi
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