Question about Bosch Dryers
Vent not blocked, good airflow, voltage is correct, replaced the reset limit switch. Will work good for a day or two then trips again.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hotpoint CTD00 trips the power
This happened to me.
Your condenser unit on the front bottom left corner may be clogged up and causing water to back up around the fan and heating element behind the rear panel.
Take condenser unit out and give it a good clean removing as much fluff as possible.
If the heating element senses damp on it, then it will trip the electric.
The back panel which is at 45 degree angle on back. I took this off and sure enough there was water in there.
Wipe away all water and use an ever so slightly damp cloth to remove as much dust stuck to the metal as possible.
I used a hair dryer for about ten minutes fanning over the heating element and circular fan. Don't rush this. Take your time to make sure all signs of damp have been removed from heating element before putting the back panel back on.
After carrying out the above my machine worked fine and no longered trip electric.
It is a pain, but to prevent this problem happening I suggest cleaning condenser unit about once a week if you have alot of washing. Empty water panel after every two loads, maximum.
Posted on Dec 05, 2007
what size is your breaker how many amps it should say on breaker are you cleaning the lint screen with it on top if the drier is getting too hot there is a device in it that's called a thermal limiter that would blow before the breaker would trip what kind or you in a house or apt. now on high heat can you hold your hand on the side of the drier.or cant touch it look at the vent under your house and tell me 1is it hanging down under the house then coming up to the hood 2whats its diameter3whats it made of we will go from there ok.there are three thermostats in that drier the first one runs at about 150 160 max second is a safety in case the first one fails it cycles at about 250 third is a safety if the drier exceeds 300 it will shut the heater down and wont rest it has to be replaced
Posted on Jan 10, 2008
The dryer timer, located in back of the control panel, controls several things: the drying time of the clothes in the drum, the flow of electricity to the heating element, and the flow of power to the timer motor and the drum motor in the dryer cabinet.
Timers are driven by synchronous motors. Although the contact part of the timer can be cleaned and adjusted on some dryers, this is a job for a professional repair person. Timer motor repairs should also be handled by a professional, but you can replace a faulty timer yourself. Here's how to test and replace a dryer timer:
Step 1: To access the timer, remove the front of the control panel. On some dryers, the timer can be removed without removing the panel. In either case, pull the timer knob off the shaft and slip off the pointer. The pointer is usually keyed to the shaft by two flat surfaces to keep the pointer from slipping when it's turned.
Step 2: Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Turn the timer to the NORMAL DRY setting and disconnect one of the timer power leads. Some timers may have several wires connected to them: The power leads are usually larger than the other wires, and this size difference can be spotted under close examination. Clip one probe of the meter to each timer terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the timer is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the timer with a new one of the same size and type.
Step 3: To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer close to the old one, especially if there are several wires to be changed. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram detailing the proper connections. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for accuracy.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
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