Question about GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

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Load size dial won't set anymore, just spins freely

Instead of being able to set the load size capacity from small to super (with a reset setting to use when changing load sizes) the dial now just spins freely in both directions. When I did laundry the previous day, the dial worked fine, but the next day (with no indication that it was wearing out or that there might be a problem of any kind), the dial was broken. The washer is 7 years old, and is usually used on smaller load settings, cold wash, delicate setting, and only about 2-3 times a month. The load size seems to be sstuck on a small to medium load size setting.

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • GE Master
  • 75,744 Answers

Most likely the knob is defective, order a new one.

Posted on Apr 25, 2017

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 883 Answers

SOURCE: Overflowed on Large load size

i think the water level sensor tube got filled when you had it on it's side, then after the first spin and drain cycle, the tube was again cleared out and ready for real action.

Posted on Oct 29, 2007

futureloginn
  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: GE WJSR4160GOWW washing machine not working right

hi there,
If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:


* If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt.
To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it
doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn,
replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


* If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin
and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the
switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

* The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside
the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top
or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


* The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small,
relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the
motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


* A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or
badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing
machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


* The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper
spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the
clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance
repair technician.


* The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation
the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to
burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace
the entire motor.


* The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a
transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the
unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem,
you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


* The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub
to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during
the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch
prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.



* Is there hot water coming through the proper hose? If not, check to see if the screen inside the
water-inlet valve is clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the
fill hoses are attached to.) If it's clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so,
completely replace it.






Posted on Dec 12, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Load size, spin cycle, and other cycles do not work properly

error code f 06 keeps coming up and we cannnot afford to have it serviced at this time we were told it had something to do with the control panel

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

  • 1894 Answers

SOURCE: GE washing machine not draining and spinning

please change the washer between the hose that leads to water exit and the machine. this must have gone loose or worn out.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: GE top load Super Capacity 16 cycle washer (one year old)

We have a GE WJRR4170 washer, with the same problem. At first I thought I might have to unscrew the entire control panel just to replace the knob. However, replacing it turns out to be easy.

Right behind the knob, holding it in place, is a nylon/plastic retainer clip. If you pull out the knob (into the "start" position), you can use a flathead screwdriver to push the clip out. The knob then will slide easily off the metal stem. A GE replacement knob costs $9 or $10, depending on the source.

Shame on GE, but the knob is designed terribly. The part of it that engages the dial has eight, flimsy plastic teeth. At any time, four of these are supposed to engage four little slots in the dial. However, the way the knob is designed, there will be a lot of wear and tear on these plastic teeth, so they'll wear out on every single machine.

Good luck to the many people who will have this problem!

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

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