Question about Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator
Posted by Anonymous on
If voltage to unit remove thermistor let run if ok replace thermistor if not see if chimney hot if not heater element if doesn't work on LP bad control board
Posted on Jun 18, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here is the trouble shooting manual for your Dometic.
It will tell you what the possible problem is.
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
You will need to remove the fridge and set it on the floor or at least pull it forward enough to reach the top of the drain hose. There is clip that holds the drain tube to a nipple that sticks out of the back of the fridge that will need to be removed. Remove this clip and the drain hose should pull right off. Route the new drain hose down through the cooling unit coils to the door panel. Attach it back to the nipple with the clip and you should be good to go. The part number for the new drain hose is 2932749019.
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Posted on Jul 03, 2009
According to the label (inside the hinge of the main door), it's 2.7 amps when running on 110 volts. It shows blank for running on 12 volts. However, with the anti-humidity switch on, it can use enough current to drain your battery. I was concerned about the battery draw when running the fridge on 12 volts, because the dealer told me it defrosts itself every 72 hours. Something has to control this, and probably uses some power.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
Get to the back of the fridge. On the right hand side, there is a metal tube about 4" in diameter which starts at the bottom and goes up. This is a piece of thin sheet metal, which holds insulation against the refrigerant line that goes up the right side of the fridge. The 110 volt heater is located inside of that, near the bottom. The heater sits inside of a small tube, welded to the refrigerant line, and is easily replaced. To get to it, remove any flat sheet metal parts that block your view of the 4" tube (you will need to have a clear view of the bottom of it.) Then you can see the heater. It is on the left side of your 4" tube, metal, about 5/16" in diameter, has 2 wires attached, and sticks out an inch or so to the left. Trace the wires back to where they are connected on your fridge, and remove them, (probably with a small straight blade screwdriver.) It may be necessary to remove another cover or 2 to get to that connection, so remember where all your cover plates came from. Digital cameras are great ;-) . Then, on your 4" tube, unsnap and open the "door" (the metal piece which is a couple if inches wide and 7" or so high,) Grab a hold of your old heater, and pull it up. It probably wont come up all the way so you can lift it completely out, so you will have to unsnap some of your 4" tube above the door. When you remove the old heater, note its position relative to the insulation and refrigerant tube, 'cause the new one goes right back in the same spot. Pull the old one out, and put the new one in. You will know you have it installed correctly when it is snug in its own little tube (you wont be able to see that part,) and there is no side to side play. Then reverse the directions, and put everything back together again. When you re-attach the 2 wires to your unit, don't worry about getting it wrong, it doesn't matter which wire goes with what connector.
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Dometic refrigerator lp gas electronic Model # 3662. Same problem. gas works fine and power is there. as lights on top of frig work.... not even trying to be cold. Same suggestions as 2652? How to bypass thermostat? and will try relay after... thanks.. Bob in Canada<input id="gwProxy" type="hidden" /><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden" /><!-- from fixya rte -->
Posted on Aug 15, 2010
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