Question about Asko WCAM1812 Front Load Washer / Dryer

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Asko WCAM 1812 wire

While taking out a wire from the heating element to a connector piece on top, I snapped it from the plastic connector attached to the wire. Does anyone have this one wire I need for the heating element? It's black and has two plastic end pieces to connect the exposed wiring. I found a wiring harness on RepairClinic but I just need the one black wire, not every bit of wiring. Thanks.

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Replace connector at end of wire crimp on type

Posted on Apr 03, 2015

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CANT U JUST ADD A NEW WIRE U CUT AND SPLICE INTO IT? ADDING A CONNECTING END

Posted on Apr 03, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Asko Washer/Dryer (WCAM 1812); Dryer not working.

Update: The dry cycle is now working! Apparently the automatic overload/shut off on the heating element got tripped. We had a technician out this morning. He unplugged the machine, removed the top of the unit, and simply pushed a little red/orange button that was on top of the heating element. When we plugged it back in the heating element worked again. The technician was able to troubleshoot this by checking the amps while running the dry cycle. But the proof was really when we did a load and the machine heated up (just like it used to) during the dry cycle. This was actually a relatively simply fix - though could be dangerous as you have to open up the electrical area. The reset button is rather inconspicuous and located on top of the heating element, which is long (runs front to back in the center part of the top of the machine - which you can get to by removing the lid/top outer housing) and silver - wrapped in insulation. It's pretty obvious. The button is in a little metal fixture on top of the heating element. The technician told us that the rest can get tripped when the unit overheats. (We think this happened when the laundry tub overfilled and the hose was totally submerged - the machine was working overtime to pump out the water.) The technician also warned that this can happen if the machine gets turned off suddenly mid-cycle - especially during the drying cycle. He said that the heating element gets so hot, it needs to have a gentle cool down period, which is marked on the dryer dial for the last 20 minutes of the cycle. I hope this helps others!

Posted on Dec 02, 2009

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SOURCE: My asko frontloader won't fully drain and I cannot

yes you need to get the filter out it will be full of coins etc.you will have to break it to get it out.you can get a replacement pintrap from asko

Posted on Jun 16, 2010

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SOURCE: Detached black wire from heating element

You pulled the wire out of the terminal. You need a crimp tool and a terminal of the proper size to crimp the wire back into a terminal. Not hard to do if you have the proper equipment.

Do not solder a wire to a crimp terminal!

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My fairy just spins on the base and I have lost the instructions,please can you help


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The defect with this toy is cheap design. What is happening is the weights at the waist are support to spin, and lift the top set wings. This causes it to take off. There is a little plastic piece inside shaped like an 8. One side of the 8 is attached to a small round ball attached to the weights (the round ball snaps into the top loop of the 8) and the other side of the 8 is attached to a plastic ball to the top wings. When off the weights hang down and so do the wings. When it starts the weights spin (lifting up) and they are suppose to lift the wings, since there attached to each other. Since the fairy has some violent crashes, the plastic 8 attachment dislodges off one of the other or both. I found on my daughters fairy both were snapped off and the small plastic 8 was laying in the waist. I reattached them and it worked fine for about 5 minutes and it came off again. Now we have lost the 8 piece and out of luck. To try and fix yourself. You can twist off the legs (just turn counter clockwise while pulling lightly). Once the legs are off lift the head off. A stem is attached with a washer, don't lose the washer. Look inside the waist and you will see the little plastic balls hanging off the side of the weights and wings. To fix just snap the 8 piece over the round balls. Probably won't last long because the plastic is already damaged some what and will come off easier each time it reattached.

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1 Answer

Detached black wire from heating element


You pulled the wire out of the terminal. You need a crimp tool and a terminal of the proper size to crimp the wire back into a terminal. Not hard to do if you have the proper equipment.

Do not solder a wire to a crimp terminal!

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1 Answer

My ASKO D3100 dishwasher has no hot water


Hi there,


Well the heating element in the dishwasher might be faulty or not working properly. To check the heating element - Locate your dishwasher's heating element. Open the dishwasher door and look into the tub. It is the thin, circular tube at the base of your dishwasher. It may or may not be covered. If it is covered, remove the lower dishrack, and then remove the cover. 

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Now look into the lower access area that you have just uncovered. Pinpoint the area where the heating element terminals extend through the base of the dishwasher. They will each have a wire connected to it. Label each of the wires so that you will be able to properly reconnect them later. Now you can pull the wires off the terminals.
Each wire is connected to a terminal using a slip-on connector. Grasp the connector and pull on it firmly. 
DO NOT pull on the wire itself. Pull only from the connector. You may decide you need to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you. you need a multimeter to check the heating element....... post comments for more help or information......

Good Luck!!

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You will need to disassemble the top motor unit and try putting power directly to the pump. The switch may be bad, the connections may be dislodged, or you may need to replace the pump. I am reading your question and I assume that you cannot hear the pump kick on (low thrumming sound).

Here is how to disassemble the motor unit. Don't pry up on the very top disk, which is an air outlet. It will only break off and won't allow access to anything. If you do break it off, drill holes through the four posts and use stainless steel screws to re-attach the disk to the plastic posts it sits on.

Now, beneath the air outlet is the rest of the motor unit. The motor unit consists of three pieces. The bottom piece is the lid to the waste water receptacle. It is concave pointing down (lid shaped). The top piece is the domed lid for the motor unit. The middle piece is a flat plate between the other two pieces. The top of the flat plate (inside the unit) has mountings for the suction fan and the pump.

The flat plate is bolted to the bottom piece and the top piece (domed lid) is simply snapped down to the flat plate. If you take a flashlight and look inside the area where the AC cord is stored, you can see that the domed lid is a distinct piece from the flat plate. The model 1672 and 1680 (or 1680-3 if you wish) are nearly identilcal.

To access the internal parts in the motor unit, you cannot pry between bottom piece and the the flat plate because they are bolted together. But you can remove the top domed lid. To remove the domed lid, position the motor unit in front of you with the switches at 9 o-clock. Three snap-downs which attach the domed lid to the flat plate are at 1 o'clock, 2:30, and 7 o'clock. Wedge a flat bladed screwdriver or pocketknife between the edge of the domed lid and the flat plate at those locations and the lever the domed lid out and then up. The domed lid will separate from the bolted-together flat plate and bottom piece.

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If you need to replace the pump or the fan, shop around carefully. The pump, for example, can be found for $30 plus shipping2_bing.gif, but some will want to charge you $80.

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I assume that yours is the same as the Bissell model 1672.

Here is how to disassemble the top motor unit. Don't pry up on the very top disk, which is an air outlet. It will only break off and won't allow access to anything. If you do break it off, drill holes through the four posts and use stainless steel screws to re-attach the disk to the plastic posts it sits on.

Now, beneath the air outlet is the rest of the motor unit. The motor unit consists of three pieces. The bottom piece is the lid to the waste water receptacle. It is concave pointing down (lid shaped). The top piece is the domed lid for the motor unit. The middle piece is a flat plate between the other two pieces. The top of the flat plate (inside the unit) has mountings for the suction fan and the pump.

The flat plate is bolted to the bottom piece and the top piece (domed lid) is simply snapped down to the flat plate. If you take a flashlight and look inside the area where the AC cord is stored, you can see that the domed lid is a distinct piece from the flat plate. The model 1672 and 1680 (or 1680-3 if you wish) are nearly identilcal.

To access the internal parts in the motor unit, you cannot pry between bottom piece and the the flat plate because they are bolted together. But you can remove the top domed lid. To remove the domed lid, position the motor unit in front of you with the switches at 9 o-clock. Three snap-downs which attach the domed lid to the flat plate are at 1 o'clock, 2:30, and 7 o'clock. Wedge a flat bladed screwdriver or pocketknife between the edge of the domed lid and the flat plate at those locations and the lever the domed lid out and then up. The domed lid will separate from the bolted-together flat plate and bottom piece.

Wiring from the switches remain attached to to the electrical components. You will see that the AC cord has white, black, and green wires. The green ground wire connects to the fan ground at the 9 o'clock position. The white power connects to upper connector on the pump and also to the fan at the 7:30 position. Black feeds both switches on model 1672 and then a black wire runs from the correct switch to the bottom connector on the pump or to the connector on the fan at the 1:30 position.

Model 1680 has a third switch which feeds power to the floor sweeper. It has its own connection to the green ground and white power and goes through the third switch to connect to black.

If you need to replace the pump or the fan, shop around carefully. The pump, for example, can be found for $30 plus shipping2_bing.gif, but some will want to charge you $80.

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1 Answer

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Here is how to disassemble the top motor unit. Don't pry up on the very top disk, which is an air outlet. It will only break off and won't allow access to anything. If you do break it off, drill holes through the four posts and use stainless steel screws to re-attach the disk to the plastic posts it sits on.

Now, beneath the air outlet is the rest of the motor unit. The motor unit consists of three pieces. The bottom piece is the lid to the waste water receptacle. It is concave pointing down (lid shaped). The top piece is the domed lid for the motor unit. The middle piece is a flat plate between the other two pieces. The top of the flat plate (inside the unit) has mountings for the suction fan and the pump.

The flat plate is bolted to the bottom piece and the top piece (domed lid) is simply snapped down to the flat plate. If you take a flashlight and look inside the area where the AC cord is stored, you can see that the domed lid is a distinct piece from the flat plate. The model 1672 and 1680 (or 1680-3 if you wish) are nearly identilcal.

To access the internal parts in the motor unit, you cannot pry between bottom piece and the the flat plate because they are bolted together. But you can remove the top domed lid. To remove the domed lid, position the motor unit in front of you with the switches at 9 o-clock. Three snap-downs which attach the domed lid to the flat plate are at 1 o'clock, 2:30, and 7 o'clock. Wedge a flat bladed screwdriver or pocketknife between the edge of the domed lid and the flat plate at those locations and the lever the domed lid out and then up. The domed lid will separate from the bolted-together flat plate and bottom piece.

Wiring from the switches remain attached to to the electrical components. You will see that the AC cord has white, black, and green wires. The green ground wire connects to the fan ground at the 9 o'clock position. The white power connects to upper connector on the pump and also to the fan at the 7:30 position. Black feeds both switches on model 1672 and then a black wire runs from the correct switch to the bottom connector on the pump or to the connector on the fan at the 1:30 position.

Model 1680 has a third switch which feeds power to the floor sweeper. It has its own connection to the green ground and white power and goes through the third switch to connect to black.

If you need to replace the pump or the fan, shop around carefully. The pump, for example, can be found for $30 plus shipping2_bing.gif, but some will want to charge you $80.

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1 Answer

Asko Washer/Dryer (WCAM 1812); Dryer not working.


Update: The dry cycle is now working! Apparently the automatic overload/shut off on the heating element got tripped. We had a technician out this morning. He unplugged the machine, removed the top of the unit, and simply pushed a little red/orange button that was on top of the heating element. When we plugged it back in the heating element worked again. The technician was able to troubleshoot this by checking the amps while running the dry cycle. But the proof was really when we did a load and the machine heated up (just like it used to) during the dry cycle. This was actually a relatively simply fix - though could be dangerous as you have to open up the electrical area. The reset button is rather inconspicuous and located on top of the heating element, which is long (runs front to back in the center part of the top of the machine - which you can get to by removing the lid/top outer housing) and silver - wrapped in insulation. It's pretty obvious. The button is in a little metal fixture on top of the heating element. The technician told us that the rest can get tripped when the unit overheats. (We think this happened when the laundry tub overfilled and the hose was totally submerged - the machine was working overtime to pump out the water.) The technician also warned that this can happen if the machine gets turned off suddenly mid-cycle - especially during the drying cycle. He said that the heating element gets so hot, it needs to have a gentle cool down period, which is marked on the dryer dial for the last 20 minutes of the cycle. I hope this helps others!

Mar 08, 2009 | Asko WCAM1812 Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore electric dryer


OK lets give it a shot. The tops snaps up and off but all of the wiring will still be attached to the controls. lift it up and you will see the element on the back of the dryer. it looks like a piece of duct work but you will see the big wires going to it.If you support the top you can turn it on and check the voltage going to the element. Should be 240 volts. on most models you can see the element. (looks like a heater coil) If the element is bad you will see where it is burned into. If your vent screen is on top of the dryer you will have to take two screws out of it before the top comes off.

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1 Answer

I need to find a replacement for an ASKO WCAM 1812 control board...


You can only order Asko parts through the Asko Website or 800 number. Some parts dealers may have parts that were "bootlegged" in, but I would question the age of those parts. Hope this helps. jj@standardtvandappliance

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