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What tool bar are you trying to get?

Posted on Nov 18, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Google is my home page,I'm missing a tool bar that had auto fill, etc. How do I get tool bars back.


mcdevito75 here, at your google home page you can right click on the tools top of your screen and check the Google tool bar. this should restore your google tool bar.

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Tip

Address bar and tools menu not seeing in Mozilla Firefox


You might have faced issue like not seeing address bar and tools menu in Mozilla Firefox sometimes. You might bit embarrassed by this. Here is the simple way to get your address bar and tools menu bar in Mozilla Firefox


Mozilla firefox will like this when the address bar and tool menu disappears

c53755f.jpg

Now you need to press ALT Key on key board.Now you can see the tool bar and menu bar. To keep this settings, right click on VIEW option and Check options like Menu bar, Navigation Toolbar and Bookmarks Toolbar.

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1 Answer

Im applying pressure in the right direction but the pin wont budge


mcdevito75 here, I'm thinking you mean the stem (winder) Make sure stem is all the way in (flat on the watch) now turn the stem a little both ways, it could be locked down, if the stem turns and doesn't seem to be locked down, simply put a fingernail just under the crown and lift to set the time. If you mean the pin or spring bar to change the band, you"ll need a special tool to remove these pins or spring bars, the tool is available on ebay called a spring bar removal tool, or you can visit a small watch repiar shop in your area.

Jun 29, 2010 | Relic 0504648FA

1 Answer

I'd like to disassemble my Fisher Price Laugh & Learn Jumperoo for storage. The ''toy bar'' (red bar in the outline of a barn) doesn't seem to come out. Is there a way to do this? Thanks!


I have the same problem. I did manage to release one side of the toy bar (left side when looking from front) by pressing very firmly on the red plastic tab that's visible underneath, using a metal tool. But on the other side of the bar, the holding tab is hidden by a white plastic cover, which itself is held by 4 white plastic tabs that I couldn't release.

Mar 16, 2010 | Fisher Price Toys

1 Answer

I cant open my yahoo massenger it always troble shooting


It seems that you have old yahoo tool bar on your computer and other yahoo aplications loaded
First what you do is
Open control Pannel and From Add/Remove
Remove all the YAhoo Applications, tool bard and Updates

Got Yahoo.com and Click on Messangers and Download the full the applucation ..

Remember whenever you download something soem anyweb site they may offer for Yahoo tool bar- Just Uncheck the Box..

Jan 11, 2010 | Microsoft Windows? Vista Home Basic...

1 Answer

Mowing deck is disconnected.


Place a block of wood under the disconnected side and have someone use a pry bar to lift it while you put in new pins.

Aug 15, 2009 | Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools

1 Answer

No u3 or san disk tool bars, or browser tool bars


What are you asking?
Read the sd card reader in the USB as if it were a drive

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1 Answer

The bar req'd to unlatch spare tire cradle


Well Iknow on my explorer it is the long jack handle under the back seat so on the van I would look under the hood maybe .mine has 3 pieces that connect together to get the length .

Mar 16, 2009 | 2002 Ford E250

2 Answers

Not display my photoshop tool bar


Go to menu>window and select tools if this doesnot work you may have embedded the tool bar some where inside photoshop so search you will find just try to deselect too bar from menu>windowand find

Feb 02, 2009 | Adobe Photoshop CS3 10

1 Answer

Crossmember mount nuts


This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder.
Tools and Materials Required

Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred
2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum
Breaker bar, 1/2" drive
Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets
Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm
Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc.
2-lb. sledgehammer
3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool
Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal
Torsion bar tensioning tool
Penetrating oil, as required
Chassis grease, as required
High pressure thread lubricant, as required
Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired
Gloves and eye protection
Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack.

Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts.
With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground.
Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants.
Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on.
Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later.
Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set.
Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused.
Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember.
Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt.
Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one.
When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side).
Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart.
Remove the tool.
Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember.
On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember.
Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it.
Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount.
Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach.
With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar.
Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet.
Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled.
Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar.
From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble.
Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember.
Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place.
Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened.
Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt.
Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s).
Completely lower coach.
Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2004 Ford F250

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