Question about Kenmore 44072 Front Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If pump works fine or still pumps out water, then it is a timer malfunction. Replace the timer and you should be fine. To locate a part number for your timer, refer to www3.sears.com with the model number off your washer.
Posted on Mar 14, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore stack washer and dryer
gabehart....sounds like belt is slipping. Replace it. The water pump is on a separate smaller motor so is not affected by the agitator/spin motor.
Posted on Aug 11, 2008
Hi Norm. Welcome to FixYa.
The first thing to check with the kind of symptoms your machine exhibits is the operation of the lid switch. Make sure that the pin/plunger on the lid itself has not broken off, and check the actuator lever on the switch itself. It is REALLY common on your model for the actuator arm to break off or crack, and this will cause no spin/no pump problems. Your machine is built by Whirlpool and the part number for the switch assembly is a 3849238. You can get it at any local whirlpool parts center in your area.
I hope you find this info helpful and thank you for allowing us to serve you.
Happy New Year from the FixYa crew!
Posted on Dec 27, 2008
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
Check your lid switch. The symptoms of your washer stopping at the rinse cycle is a commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare. If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number if different from the one listed. I hope this information is helpful to you.
NOTE: "110" is not the model number. This is the prefix on the model number that identifies the manufacturer of your washer. 110 indicates the washer was manufactured by Whirlpool.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
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