Question about Maytag MVWX700XL Top Load Washer MVWX700XL
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I will assume you are taking dc or UC errors to the display in spin cycle. Just need the first two digits of your machine serial number, ie. 10,12,16 etc. That information is located on the right back side of the machine console. If you are taking those errors I recommend removing the clutch inspecting the clutch roller bearings and clutch spring. There is a test to perform for the Tub Displacement Sensor that we could check first but 10 times out of 10… so far it’s the clutch. Most of the time a cleanup with WD-40 and re-lube of the clutch bearings with some light bearing grease will get you back in service. If the clutch bearings are rusted up beyond clean up or the clutch spring is broken then a clutch replacement will be required. I recommend this clutch as a replacement. I put that clutch in my machine (1st two digits of my s/n are 16) just to make sure it would work, my original clutch was cleaned up with WD-40 alone and worked as the day delivered on 7/05. Take a look and read thru the post in the link below. In that post I go thru a step by step process to replace the clutch (comment of 3/18). I can also offer some phone support no charge; I'm a DIY'er owner of the machine. I believe the repair cost (from previous post on this forum) to replace the clutch and labor will be around $300 if you don't DIY the repair/maintenance for this issue. Most of the clutch malfunctions are resolved with the clutch maintenance. Anyone can do this with only basic mechanical skill sets. If you can change the spark plug on a lawnmower you can deal with this, the work area is just tight. Here are some folks that had positive results with this maintenance. Unfortunately I feel many of these machines end up at the curb for bulk trash pickup when a $10 fix for some WD-40 a squirt of bearing grease or worse case a $50-$60 new clutch replacement. Good Luck and let me know if you need additional support, Rich.
Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Solution #4 posted on Mar 17, 2009
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
Don't know how to solve it, but I do know that the Solution #1 is WRONG.
I have a 5 year warranty on my washer, but I hate people coming into my house. Background check or not, people are people.
Any ways, when they do fix my problem I will let you know. It's an electrical problem.
I know our electric meters are running, but all you have to do is put the washer on "SPIN" cycle, and it will spin and the water will come out. Or you can put your washer in RINSE cycle, since it did not actually rinse.
I was standing and I watched my washer fill 3/4 full with water, and the skip to "COMPLETE" all on it's own. It was suppose to fill all the way to FULL.
Thinking though, I have well water, and I have rust in my water, and I noticed that my water is pouring slower into the washer, maybe there is a clog with rust or something I'll have to clean the filter, but any ways, maybe the washers have a timer, and when it's to the time it should be complete, it skips to complete. It does take DOUBLE time for my water to go into the washer. I was standing there for several minutes.
Any ways, I hope that will help. My washer first did that a few months ago, it didn't do it again, I didn't think anything of it, then it did it again last month, and about every 2 or 3 washes, it does it. It's NOT the weight of my clothes! I wash mini loads and it does it.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
I’m an owner of the FAV6800A LED console display version. You have the LCD console.
This issue could be related to a failed Control Board a failed Motor Controller. It could be related to loss of signaling to and from the lid locks.
What is your skill set level can you use a DVM to measure D.C. voltages in the machine?
If not I would recommend a knowledgeable repair service to help resolve the issue and that may be a challenge. But read on and maybe we can get you to look at the Left Hand Lid Lock,
You can raise the washer lid from the base to remove your clothes from the wash basket with this process and the Service Manual . Don’t break the Left Hand Lid Lock latche if you do you will need to replace the Left Hand Lid Lock. The machine only needs that Lid Lock to operate as designed.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Diag code 4 for both machines = The lid fails to lock. Look on page 25 for the error code description in then points you to this “”Go to "Will not unlock" Troubleshooting Section””. Confusing right?
I think you could have corrosion issues with the Left Hand lid lock. If you want to DIY this part of the machine see this post for Left Hand Lid Lock Troubleshooting.
Take a look and see what direction you want to go…..Rich
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
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