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Dell monitor repair

Replaced capacitors on 2208wpf and works fine but forgot position of wiring at last step of assembly. Two connectors at side and two connectors at top, white/red and grey/green. Does anyone know proper position? Both seem to work, does it matter?

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  • 2,113 Answers

It matters greatly. If you get it backwards it may blow parts. Always examine things closely when dismantling. Take photos as you go or mark connecters with magic marker etc

Posted on Nov 17, 2013

Testimonial: "Do have any idea what these cold cathode tube wires may blow apart, what I might watch for?"

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Constant white screen

check the brightness and contrast from the menu on the monitor try increasing it ... the problem will get solved...
if same problem persists contact ur near by experrt technician he may tell that the tube is gone he must recharge it....

Posted on Feb 06, 2008

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SOURCE: Missing VGA Cable for LCD Monitor - Help?

It should be 15 pin connector VGA .It should work.

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SOURCE: grey white screen and that is all

Hi Mike,
Probably defect at the logic board of LCD.

Posted on Apr 22, 2008

  • 555 Answers

SOURCE: Monitor Blackout

Here is a website that provides instructions to repair the inverter on a similar model:

http://josepino.com/?howto-repair-dell

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: EMachines E19T5W Flat Panel Monitor - keeps blinking red, green, blue white lines

On the monitor below the screen has these fine pink and green lines blinking across the screen all the time on my laptop. Can you tell me how to fix it or solve this problem?

Posted on Dec 28, 2009

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A/c blower motor works if I pull power and plug back in until I cut engine off. Then I have to repeat process


Daryl, You may want to check the blower relay/ just switch with one of same type and try and if OK, problem could be the blower motor, wires/plug loose,damaged,burnt or a faulty blower motor resistor. Second link has some trouble shooting of a overheating wire problem, that is to be common in these trucks. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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Have thin line of picture on right side of screen, rest is blank. Sound is fine


Hi,

If your LCD TV or monitor has stopped working, or is displaying one of the following symptoms, then it's a candidate for some new capacitors
- Flickering screen
- Screen image disappears after several seconds
- Dim screen
- Slow start
- Power LED on, but no picture
- Unusual colors and/or lines
The primary cause of LCD TV and monitor failure is caused by faulty capacitors. You can examine the capacitors in your LCD TV or monitor and actually see if they are bad.
If they appear bulged on top, then they need to be replaced.
New capacitors will solve a host of problems in LCD monitors and TV's and will extend the life of your monitor or TV by several years.
Check the cables, connectors and connections.
Take it to a repair shop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TR2iWN6b-LY

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Mar 05, 2015 | LG 32LG30 32 in. LCD HDTV

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Dell ST2210 suddenly will not power on. Tried different power cord, outlet, unplugging everything but the power cord and still nothing.


If your LCD TV or monitor has stopped working, or is displaying one of the following symptoms, then it's a candidate for some new capacitors
- Flickering screen
- Screen image disappears after several seconds
- Dim screen
- Slow start
- Power LED on, but no picture
- Unusual colors and/or lines
The primary cause of LCD TV and monitor failure is caused by faulty capacitors. You can examine the capacitors in your LCD TV or monitor and actually see if they are bad.
If they appear bulged on top, then they need to be replaced.
New capacitors will solve a host of problems in LCD monitors and TV's and will extend the life of your monitor or TV by several years.
Check the cables, connectors and connections.
Take it to a repair shop.

Apr 21, 2014 | Dell Computers & Internet

1 Answer

I have a dell e198fp monitor con nected to a dell latitude d400. Got monitor from daughter who said monitor was working then went black and stayed same. I get a blinking green power button with a black...


I suspect you will find that there are bad capacitors on the power supply board. If you aren't handy with a soldering iron, however, I would not recommend this repair. It can be easy to permanently damage things. If you aren't afraid of that, however, give it a try.

There are two that I have found that typically fail (680 microfarad, 16 volt). They usually "bulge" on top after failing. I have found that the replacement value doesn't seem to be too critical. I wish I had written down the actual designators for these caps (maybe next time I repair one of these monitors).

WARNING! DISCONNECT POWER BEFORE DISASSEMBLING THE MONITOR AND DO NOT RECONNECT POWER UNTIL ALL SHIELDING IS REINSTALLED!!! DANGEROUS LINE VOLTAGE WILL BE EXPOSED!!!

Once you get the bezel apart and get down to the metal shielding, slide the shield on the right hand side to remove (arrows pointing to each other). There will be four connectors underneath this shield to power the backlight. Disconnect these four connectors, paying close attention to where they were connected.

Disconnect the small ribbon cable on the other side connecting to the front panel controls...There is a small black tab that will flip up to allow removal of the ribbon cable. CAUTION! THESE CABLES ARE DELICATE...DAMAGING THE CABLE OR THE CONNECTOR WILL DESTROY YOUR MONITOR.

There are four screws holding the power supply section to the LCD itself (two on each side). Once you remove these screws the rear shield (and power supply section) will start to separate from the LCD. There is another ribbon cable between the power supply section and the LCD panel...AGAIN...DO NOT DAMAGE THIS CABLE OR CONNECTOR! Squeeze the two black tabs on either side of this connector to remove.

You should now have the power supply board exposed. Remove the screws securing the power supply board to the shield. You will need to disconnect the connector attaching the AC power inlet to the board in order to access the top side...

The failed capacitors should be readily apparent. Replace them, re-assemble and test.

That's it

Jul 25, 2011 | Dell E198FP LCD Monitor

2 Answers

The screen flashes on my Dell 1905FP Monitor, Is there a fix?


Hello,

This is a common indication of bad filter capacitors on the power supply board. Below is a picture of the power supply board with the problem capacitors circled in yellow. The repair is easy, you just need to replace those capacitors and the unit should be as good as new. Below the picture is also a link to a full repair guide showing how to dis-assemble the monitor and what parts need to be replaced. the repair guide has a full parts list for the job.


9_24_2012_10_46_26_pm.jpg

The repair guide can be found here:http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/repairing-a-dell-1905fp-1907fp-lcd-monitor/

Mar 26, 2010 | Dell UltraSharp 1905FP 19" LCD Monitor

2 Answers

Dell monitor 2005FPW keeps on flashing




I was having the same problem.
I solved it by replacing the two 47µF capacitors on the power supply/inverter board.
I actually removed all the capacitors (around 13) and all checked out fine except for the two 47µF.
I forgot to take pictures or even write down the capacitor label on the board.
They are located close to the logic board connector

Feb 05, 2009 | Dell UltraSharp 2005FPW 20.1" LCD Monitor

7 Answers

LG Flatron L1932TQ won't turn on


I have the exact same problem. Just like Ptepe, I also found the 680uf/25v and 1000uf/16v capacitors in positions c203 and c204 on the Power Supply PCB to be bulging on the top. I considered replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors on the board, but decided to just try the visibly effected ones first. Please make note that the instructions provided below are to be followed at your own risk! Soldering on a delicate printed circuit board will be required for this repair and the board can be permanently damaged if done incorrectly, not to mention the potential for bodily harm! If you have warranty, you will obviously want to pursue that avenue first.

1) Remove the monitor's base by removing the plastic cover over the connectors and then the one over the base's bracket and unscrewing the four screws. While you're in the area, there are two screws, one on either side of the bracket, that must be removed. They are in the recessed wells.

2) Turn the monitor upside down so the narrow edge is facing you. You will see at either end of the bottom edge an arrow pointing toward a slot. Side a small flat head screwdriver under the cover in the direction of the arrow. With the screwdriver still inserted, unclip the bezel by pulling the plastic in the direction of the arrow. Repeat on the other side and carefully pry the rest of the clip points loose all the way around the screen, while carefully holding pressure against the screen so it doesn't fall out, and the plastic bezel will come off. Be sure to unscrew the switch assembly from the bottom. There are two screws.

3) Lay the monitor face-down on a soft, clean surface like a folded blanket. There will be five screws on the back with the fifth one in the center. Remove all of these screws and very gently lift the plastic cover away, making sure to keep the screen from falling out abruptly.

4) With the back of the screen and electronics exposed, you will see a sheet metal case with a few wires routing from it to three points on the monitor and the switch assembly. To the left you will see a metal cover held in by one small screw on the narrow edge. Remove this small screw and partially remove any tape that may be securing it. You may replace the tape later if it loses adhesion. Remove it, gently lifting the metal case where it overlaps the cover.

5) Next, partially remove any tape that is securing the wiring harnesses (it can be completely removed if you are planning to replace it). This will give the metal case a sufficient range of motion to allow you to lift it up on the right edge and expose the large harness routed to the top of the screen. This harness has a bit of tape covering the connector at which it terminates, and the tape must be lifted to expose the connector. Gently remove the connector straight out of the socket. Avoid diagonal movement as much as possible.

6) With the large connector removed, the metal case can now be flipped over, with the screen remaining flat, to expose the circuit boards it houses. On the left is the processor board, on the right (the one with the big capacitors) is the power supply board. First, remove the black plastic cover over the power supply board. This may require some flexing of the plastic and/or clips. Be sure to make sure any wires attached to it are detached. Next remove the small metal slide panels covering the upper and lower wiring harness connectors on the case (the ones routed to the upper and lower parts of the monitor on the left side). With the two upper and two lower connectors exposed, note their positions and disconnect them.

7) Now the case is completely disconnected from the monitor. Carefully remove the connector from the board on the right that connects to the board on the left. Unscrew the four bolts holding in the power supply board (the lower left screw is larger than the others). Carefully lift the board out, angling the side with the power connector downward. Be very careful not to touch components on the circuit board.

8) By comparison, you may clearly see which capacitors are bulging on the top. These are the ones you want to replace. If mine and Ptepe's experiences are consistent with yours, you will see two out of a cluster of six larger capacitors with bulging tops (the cluster is on the opposite side of the really big capacitor and the two common capacitors are surrounded by the others). While you have the board out anyway, check for continuity through the fuse with a Digital Multimeter and check for any visible defects such as burn marks or melted solder points.

9) Very carefully desolder the effected capacitors. Verify their rating (most likely one 680uf/25v and one 1000uf/16v capacitor) and order them. If you'd like to replace all of the medium capacitors, it couldn't hurt. You can even replace the really big one if you want, but make sure you measure everything...including height, width and terminal spacing. For the ones that I used, though, they're 10mm x 20mm radial aluminum electrolytic capacitors with 5mm terminal spacing and 105C temperature rating.

10) Solder in the new capacitors, clip the excess pin lengths and reassemble in reverse order. It may take some finesse to put everything back the way you found it, but if you paid attention while you were taking it apart, it shouldn't be too hard (and taking pictures with your camera phone along the way can help too).

This solution worked for me. If it wasn't for shipping, I would have paid $1.18 for the entire repair. If you can find it, the power board can be replaced as an assembly, too, if you screw it up. :) Good luck!


Jan 23, 2008 | Gateway FPD2275W LCD Monitor

5 Answers

Dell Monitor 152FPC POWER BUT DIMMED SCREEN


connection could be loose ,loose pin on pinout plug, dirty connection,broken wire in cord,make sure connection is tight,bad ground in plug or wire

Sep 06, 2007 | Dell E152FP 15" Flat Panel LCD Monitor

2 Answers

Repeated power cycles after a couple of hours running.


I have a Dell 15" Flat Panel with the same symptoms. I found that if I tapped on the monitor, it would work for awhile which suggested a loose connection. I dismantled the monitor and removed the main board so that I could see the soldered connections. With the board positioned with the power connection facing away from me, I inspected all solder joints on the main board using a magnifying glass. On the left side, I saw two capacitors and found insufficient solder around the leg of one of the capacitors. I touched a soldering iron with a small dab of solder to the connection. After reassembling, I have experienced no further cycling. Going on two weeks now, it seems to have cured the problem.

Jun 28, 2006 | Dell E173FP 17" LCD Flat Panel Monitor

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