Question about Frigidaire FASG7021NW

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Frigidaire fase7021nwo drum motor will not turn

Dryer was dead shorting out. The cause was a black wire melted on to part of the heat duct. Now getting error E53. I have already replaced the front control panel board. Drum will not turn now unless I have the top off of the machine and physically push the drum to get it started.

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  • Contributor
  • 6 Answers

Check the drive belt and bearings.

Posted on Nov 17, 2013

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: frigidaire stacked gas dryer flsg50rgso

Hello sdusharm
Welcome

You said, You have a gas stacked frigidaire dryer and washer. I assume the motor has gone because one you push the start button the drum does not turn. How do you get to the motor to replace. Does the top and back come off and how do you do it. alan

Below I will paste the site that will have the repair diagrams needed for you to see how to replace the motor if you choose to!

Find the diagram "#5 Dry MTR ,BELT" When you click the page and it opens inthe upper right corner it will say,Open This Diagram in a New Window.The motor is #28 in the Diagram.

28 5303937189 MOTOR & PULLEY In-Stock $ 112.80 Diagram and parts site location
http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

Let me know how it goes for you!
Huuum,
Please remember to leave a rating.
I believe I solved your request!

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing Control Board on Frigidaire model LEQ1442ES0 Dryer

There should be screws on the back side of the top panel that come out. Then the panel will slide out so that you can access the front controls.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: My frigidaire dryer model GCEQ2152ES0

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.


if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....


If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.


check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101


//

Posted on Dec 17, 2010

TheMobilian
  • 8220 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Frigidaire FLSE72GCS3 stackable

I have a page with videos and a service manual HERE

Posted on Jan 15, 2011

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1 Answer

Cycle selector loose...broken...


Dryer Diagnosis & Repair Before we start with any diagnosis or any repair, we must give you an URGENT WARNING. Your dryer is hooked up to either a 240 volt(electric dryer) or a 120 volt(gas dryer) electric source. Either source can easily shock you and KILL you! Use extreme caution and make sure to unplug the appliance or remove the electrical power to the dryer! Another thing to keep in mind. More and more appliances, including dryers, are going to electronic controls with digital readouts. These types of appliances usually have the capability of giving you an error code. These error codes can then be looked up in either the owner's manual, tech sheet(somewhere on or in your appliance) or on-line. This error code can save you or the technician time in diagnosing the problem with the unit.
One other thing to remember before calling for dryer repair, is make sure the dryer is getting power. That it is plugged in and the breaker is fully on. We hate charging for a service call when the problem was a tripped breaker.

Dryer Won't Start
1st check to make sure your dryer is getting the proper voltage by using a voltage meter or multi-meter. Electric dryers should have 220-240 volts while Gas dryers will have 110-120 volts. You can either check the wall receptacle or at where the cord comes into the dryer. This should be always your 1st test to diagnose a problem. If you do not have the proper voltage, then your dryer will not start or possibly just not heat.
For example, on a electric dryer you have either a 3 wire or 4 wire plug coming into the dryer. No mater what, the 2 outside spades are your hot leads(the red wire & black wire), the other one or two spades are your neutral/ground or your neutral & ground separated. Take a voltage measurement across the black & red leads on the back of the dryer and you should get 220-240 volts. Measure either the black or red leads to the white or ground leads and you should get 110-120 volts.

j0320184.jpgNow back to the dryer itself, depending on the brand dryer, say a Whirlpool, the black wire runs both the motor and the heat element, and the red wire only runs the heat element. So, if your breaker to your electric dryer is only partially tripped(1 of 2 breakers) you could see your dryer either run with no heat, or it would not start at all. That is why it is so important to check your voltage before starting any other diagnosis.
Now unplug or remove the power to the dryer to check other causes. Your door switch could be open, not completing the circuit. This can be checked by a resitance/OHM test. Your Thermal Fuse could be open which is usually located on the blower or heat element housings. That again can be tested with an OHM tester. The Push-to-Start button may not be closing, again test with OHM tester. Your timer may not be sending the voltage out, this is a little more complicated test to do. You have to be able to read the wiring diagram and test for voltage coming out of the timer to the motor, use extreme caution on this test. The motor start switch or motor itself could be open, again read the wiring diagram and perform an OHM test on the correct wires with the unit unplugged. Lastly, check the obvious for any broken or loose wires and/or connections.
Dryer runs, but does not turn
This problem is usually pretty easy. If you here your dryer motor running and the drum is not turning, most of the time you need a new drum belt. Other causes could be a broken drum belt idler or pulley, a stripped pulley on the motor, or something jammed between the drum and dryer cabinet keeping ot from spinning.
Dryer runs, but timer does not move
Another fairly easy one. Most of the time, you have a stripped timer, especially if you are using it on the timed drying cycle. Other causes could be a thermostat problem in the auto-dry cycle or the sensors inside the drum are not reading properly.
Dryer runs, but does not turn off
These causes are just like the last topic, but most likely is in your timer.

j0391100.jpg Dryer door does not close or keeps popping open This is a simple latch problem. It is usually in the receiver part of the latch, but replace both sides when you get the kit. Also on matching front load washers and dryers wher you have 2 latches, it is extremely important you put the right latch in either the top or bottom. The Whirlpool latch kit specifies which color(strenth of hold) latch receiver either goes in the top or bottom.
Dryer runs, but produces no heat(non vent problem)
Most of the time, this is caused by either an open heat element, hi-limit cut-off switch, or operating thermostat. Occasionally your timer or control can be the cause, and also don't forget to check for those loose, broken wires or connectors.
Dryer runs, but seems to be cycling too often(non vent problem)
This problem is not to common if your dryer vent is good. The main cause of this is usually an operating thermostat or your timer/control reading the info it gets wrong. Usually when a thermostat goes, it just opens and no heat is produced.
Dryer runs, but gets too hot, never cycles off(non vent problem)
This problem usually means you have a short somewher in your dryer. Most likely the heat element. A lot of times, when this problem occurs, your dryer can even heat up when it is off. The element has either broken off and welded itself to the element side or something has gotten into the element. We have seen metal underwires from bra goe through the holes in the back of the drum and lodge themselves inside the element. This creates a dead short and always heat situation.
Dryer runs, but sounds like tennis shoes inside or scraping noise
Let us state this first, Whirlpool and Maytag dryers use roller supports in the back and either rollers or a slide/seal for support in the front. One noise you will always get with these type of dryers is a constant "thump" noise. This noise is caused by the seam of the drum going over the roller support. Nothing you can do about this thumping noise, and depending on how smooth this seam is, depends on the sound level of the noise. Whirlpool and Maytags also use felt drum seals that are attached to their drums.
GE and Frigidaire drums have a center support in the back of the drum and a system of slides or felts in front to support the drum. No seals are actually attached to the drum itself. Now back to the problem.
The tennis shoe noise is usually associated with a bad roller support and will be more common on the Whirlpool and Maytag brand dryers. When replacing the Whirlpool back support rollers, make sure the support axle is coming out straight from the back bulkhead. A bent axle will cause premature failure of these rollers. A lint buildup will also cause premature failure of the bearing part of all rollers. These rollers are held on by either a triangular plastic clip or a spring clip.
The scraping noise may be caused by either something getting stuck in either a dryer seal, felt or slide, or the noise can be from worn drum seals, worn front felt/slides, or a worn center back support. To fix any of these problems, you must know how to get into the front of your dryer and disassemble the drum. Inspect all rollers, seals, felts, slides, or supports. Replace the defective part.


Dryer repair is not rocket science. It can be done by many, if you think you can do it and need some more help, just drop us a line and we will do what we can. We will also be offering DIY Manuals shortly. If dryer repair is not for you, and you would like to schedule service, just click here and fill out the request form and we will get back to you as soon as we can. If you would like some maintenance tips to prevent dryer repair, click here or go to our dryer vent issue page. The dryer vent is the life blood of your dryer.
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Dec 30, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer will not run. I can feel the timer clicking; however, the drum will not turn or dryer will not light up. I think it is the timer; however, could it be he thermostat or thermofuse?


First things first
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Second, the electricals
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly

Dec 13, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a GE model # DCVH680EJOMS front end loading Dryer and it seems to take multiple cycles to get my clothes dry. I discovered that Water is collecting in the flexible exhaust tubing...not just a...


Hi and Welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly

You already have discovered the problem. Lint has built up in the vent / exhaust ducting. Most of the time the through the wall vent flapper gets lint build up on it outside the house and then as that restricts airflow you get condensation in the ducting. The condensation causes the lint to form a cake like paste inside the ducting. THOROUGHLY Clean out your vent ducting from the dryer connection all the way thru the outside wall and your dryer will be fine. If you need to replace the ducting please do so. Ducting is cheaper than the electricity you waste on clogged ducting. You proved your dryer will work correctly when you dried a load of clothes with the ducting removed.

Thanks for choosing FixYa

Kelly

Sep 27, 2010 | GE DCVH515EF Electric Dryer

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