Question about Saws
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Jam a piece of wood between the blade and the table to stop it from turning while loosening the bolt. Circular saws never had locking mechanisms until recent years.
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
Unplug the saw and take the covers off the wheels. See if any of them show excessive end play or deflections when gently racking them from side to side. You may need to shim the wheels. Ideally, you want them all to track in the same plane, and you can check this with a straightedge.
There should be a tracking thumbscrew locked with a wing nut or some such on the back of the upper wheel. Put the blade on so it rides in the center of the tire, (move the guides out of the way if need be until you get the blade to track correctly), and turn the wheel by hand to see how the blade rides. That way you can make adjustments before it pops all the way off. By moving the bolt on the back of that upper wheel in or out you adjust the pitch of that wheel and change the way the blade tracks...
After you get the blade tracking smoothly under tension, you can move the guides back into position to support your blade during cuts.
Posted on Apr 20, 2009
SOURCE: stuck blade
I looked for a picture of this saw -- couldn't find one. When you wrote that you put the blade down on a 2x4 that sounds like a chop saw. In which case the balde is attached to the motor shaft.
A torch is kinda extreme, but if you do it safely & quickly it might work. If the blade is on the motor shaft, you don't want too much heat to get into the motor.
You don't want to heat the blade. Heat the nut only -- the nut will expand more than the shaft and perhaps break loose. I wouldn't heat it more than 20-30 seconds and make sure the flame is directly on the nut. Also make sure all flammable stuff is out of the way (like sawdust).
I wouldn't expect the heating to allow you take it off by hand -- you'll probably have to try all the brute force measures again -- and remember the left hand threads.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
If these bushings are getting that hot, then you may have the wrong speed or a non-optimum blade. The blade pitch (number of teeth per inch) must be lower the thicker the wood is. If there are too many teeth trying to cut at the same time you have to push harder to get enough pressure to cut and that puts more force on the guide bushings. There are a variety of pitches available even for the narrower scrolling blades. If you have to move up to a wider blade, there is a little trick to help you cut a slightly smaller scroll radius - round off the back side of the blade with a sharpening stone.
Also, with oak, you may need to use a slower speed to keep the blade from heating up - although a hot blade will show up as more of a problem with the lower guide bushings only. Your saw might have multiple steps on the pulleys, allowing you to move the belt to a slower speed.
I hope this helps. Thanks for using Fixya. Good luck!
Posted on Mar 24, 2010
U.S.A.--POWER TOOL SPECIALISTS INC.
684 Huey Road Rock Hill, SC 29730 U.S.A. Tel: 1-803-980-7740
I'm sorry I could not find any downloadable information on this scroll saw, but I would imagine if you call or email the company above, they may be able to email you a PDF of what you need. Good luck.
Posted on Nov 21, 2010
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