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I fixed a few like that recently. I just replaced the ballcock with a fluidmaster, $12 or so and the kit comes with a better way to hold the hose in place.
Posted on Nov 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.
Your question is: the procedure to join pan to waste pipe without leaking. do i silicone around rubber seal?
In 30 years this is the first time I've heard of a toilet "pan". If you're refering to the bowl, it connects with a wax ring and a pair of bolts. You then caulk around where the bowl meets the floor to keep cleaning liquids from getting under and getting stinky. If this is not a standard toilet it would be a good idea to post pictures and give make and model.
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Harvey your Master Plumber
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
Ok the toilets work is that the tank reservoir is where your fresh water....is stored....and the flush valve...(if you take the tank lid off you will see that the handle is either connected to a chain or uses a lever to lift something called a flapper....it is usually black but it can be gray..or blue...also there is a flash valve that is a long tube and a round bottom with a rubber gasket...that seals the flush water into the tank...reventing it from entering the bowl.......when you lift the handle water dumps from the tank...into a s-shape tunnel called a trap...(this is in place to prevent sewer gases from entering the house the water sits in the bottom of the trap acting as a seal against smells...gas...etc...from the sewer line....Now your tank is mounted to the bowl by (2 or 3) bolts that you can see and access from inside the tank...however the person doing this will have to also reach under the toilet where the tank mounts to the bowl and hold a pair of pliers or a crescent wrench on the nuts which hold the tank in place.....after these are removed...the tank will lift off of the bowl.(now obviously the water has to be shut off and be disconnected from the tank....when the tank is lifted ...a small amount of water may spill out ...but it is clean water...so no worries....since the tank and the bowl are made of porcelain they obviously would not seal just sitting on top of each other so the tank...has the bottom part of the flush assembly which is mounted to the tank by way of a large plastic nut extends out of the bottom opf the tank 2-3 inches......around this is another black or gray about 3-5 inches in diameter...and costs less than $5 at Home Depot.....change this out, reassemble and your back in business. Be advised that the flapper in the bottom of the tank...if you ever have to change it out and the tank gasket you are going to change out (after a long period of use or just time and deterioration)...leave black residue on your hands...if you handle them...but it is safe and easily washed off...it just may freak.. a layperson out....so one may want to use some gloves they can toss afterwards....Any other questions....and I can absolutely answer them in regards to toilets...as i have repaired and or replaced 2500 - 3000 in my 35 years in the apt/home maintenance industry.
I hope this helps.....thank you for rating my effort...and good luck....tha Fang.
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
You are probably correct, the water level needs to be raised. There are many different toilet tank systems, but all have some way to control the water level in the tank. Let me know if you need help figuring it out...
P.S. You'll have to take the lid off the tank, first...pardon me if that is too obvious
Posted on May 08, 2009
for the upstairs if the valve is fully on there is not much you can do other than replace water service to the house or heaven forbid repipe.Valves usually don't restrict fill volume.But you can take the supply loose from the tank and stick it in a bucket turn the valve on and check the flow.this should narrow it down.Down stairs repair or replace flush valve
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
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