Question about GE Dryers
Dirt in your tube going outside or remove back pannel and check for dust near your elaments
Posted on Nov 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
try flipping you breaker off and on 2 or 3 times (hard and fast) if this don't work check element, timer , thermostats and safety switch on motor (check wiring diagram for pin numbers of safety switch)....if this switch goes bad the motor will still run but it wont let power go to element
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore gas dryer no heat
The thermal fuse is easy to test. Just check continuity using a multimeter or ohmmeter. A lack of continuity means a blown thermal fuse.
The coils are difficult to test. You can use a multimeter or ohmmeter and check for continuity, but the problem is that a coil may be sticking open only after heating up, so you can see the difficulty this would present. If a coil is suspected of being faulty, it is best to replace both (all) at the same time. These coils are what permit the gas valves to open and they can cause a no light or a cycling condition. Really sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
I would say your right on track, check your heating coil when you locate it also...just in case.
Hope this helps...
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
in this case we put the lower temp thermostat in the oven at 170 degrees till it was hot and measured with ohm meter and it was open. After it cooled down some it went back to being a short. Now with this part in the dryer and the new high temp thermostat
and it blew shortly after being turned on. A possiblity is that there is a short by passing the 150 degree thermostat and the element keeps being on and causes the 350 degree thermostate to blow.
Posted on Apr 07, 2010
After reading your post I can't help but wonder, have you checked to insure the dryer has 240vac going to it. These dryer's will appear to work almost perfectly with 120vac, with one exception...you guessed it, No Heat !
If you know the location of your homes service panel go to it. Locate the 30amp breaker and turn it all the way "off" and then all the way "on" do not just identify it and assume it is ok because ot doesn't appear "tripped".
This happens all to often when I go to a customers home. The first words out of there mouths is "It's not the breaker I checked" and then I physically check "reset" the breaker ( after verifying the dryer is only receiving 120vac and not 240vac with my meter ) and what do you know, heat !
That could be the problem all it's own. The other thing to look for is a poor connection ( loose and burnt or badly oxidized...or both ) on either of the "hot" cord lines coming into the unit, either the red or black.
Let me know what you find out, but that's where I'd be looking before installing anymore part's.
Posted on May 01, 2010
Testimonial: "power good. cords good. what next?"
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Hello Scott Joseph Brandt - Since you have already replaced the thermal limiter check your breaker or fuses. Some dryers are run by two separate fuses, one for power and one for heat-ours is. If it is not the power source more than likely the issue lies with your heating coil.
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