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Not getting 24 v from defrost board to contactor

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Sounds like a bad board

Posted on Nov 22, 2013


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Based on your description there should be 2 contactors. One is the contactor that controls power to the welder primary winding, this one should be quite large compared to the other one, the other controls the 24 volt (most common) supply to the wire feed speed control board and gas solenoid. If you do have 2 of these contactors, the 24 volt contactor may supply the control current to the larger contactor..

If blowing out the cabinet has not helped, and at this point it is not likely, the 24 volt contactor should be replaced. If a sealed one is available I would upgrade to that style. The ratings should be embossed on the contactor somewhere, otherwise your control voltage should be 24 volts, use a meter just make sure you are in that range, US, UK and Euro standard share some common specs. You may have a 2 pole or 3 pole type- it depends if the gas solenoid is powered off the same pole as the motor control board, or if it is powered by it's own pole. These would be the "N/O" contacts, and all would have current supplied by the 24 volt supply/control supply. The larger contact coil winding would be on it's own pole. Contacts should be rated at 15 Amps minimum

Replacing both contactors at the same time if so equipped is a cost effective bit of maintanence.

If you have only the single 24 volt contactor, the tip will be live at all times and it will only be the gas and the wire feed control board that would be switched by the contactor.

Again, based on description, I would replace the 24 volt contactor. Contacts should be rated at 15 Amps minimum

I would also just check the gas solenoid with a jumper wire to make sure it opened and closed as it should.

Feb 21, 2012 | Welding Tools

1 Answer

Outside AC unit not coming on but indoor fan is working, replaced the start/run 5/50 capacitor but still didnt fix it, let it set allday while came home tried it and it came on and worked great, but the...

Sounds like you are on the right track. The symptom of the contactor not pulling is your clue to the solution. When you turn the thermostat down lower than the room temperature and the thermostat calls for cooling, the outside unit should start immediately. There are a few exceptions to this but generally this is correct. So if you turn the system to cool and the thermostat is calling for cool then the contactor should pull in immediately. If it does not then check for 24 volts to the contactor. If you have 24 volts to the contactor then the contactor is the problem. If you do not have 24 volt power to the contactor coil then you will have to find where the break in voltage to the contactor is happening.
There are many reasons why you may not be getting 24 volts to the contactor, so check what i stated above before you go any further. Repost if this is the solution or you need further assistance.
Important tip....the yellow wire from the thermostat carries the 24 volt power from the thermostat to the contactor.

Sep 08, 2011 | Intertherm P3RA-036K Air Conditioner

1 Answer

My air conditioner will not run, the fan will not run in auto or in run mode, the compressor will not start. The thermostat clicks on but the air unit does not. this is a Goodman cplj18-1b unit.

Hello, if the outside unit is not running check tje power supply to make sure you are getting 240 volts, also make sure the contactor coil is receiving 24 volts, if you are not getting 24 volts at the contactor then it may be a bad thermostat, control board or the thermostat wiring is loose or perhaps cut somwhere. If you have 24 volts at the contactor and does not energize than replace the contactor coil.

May 12, 2011 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Rheem RPGB-37JAS. I purchased Defrost Control Kit 47-102684-83 to replace old defective one. Old board had wires on terminals labeled 18-30 VAC, COM, DEF RELAY, and HOLD. New board has terminals labeled...

C- is common/ground of the board FM transformer
R-is 24 volts to the board FM transformer
B- is to energize reversing valve for heat from thermostat.
D- energizes the electric heat in defrost mode.
Y-comes from the thermostat and energizes the compressor and condenser fan motor by pulling in the contactor.

Feb 11, 2011 | Ruud UAKA042 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have an old Miller 3 ton heat pump. It will work fine sometimes but when it decides not to work i can go outside and press the power contactor and the unit will come on as long as i hold the contactor...

it sounds to me you need just a really good tune up maybe a new contactor retest your low voltage what do you have from common to 24 volts it should be 27 volts if you test each wire you want get 24 v it will be like 7 or so

Sep 22, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Contactor not pulling in on 24 volts after changing out all parts: defrost board, contactor, cap, fan relay, transformer and heat sequence

Set the thermostat so that the a/c should be on. Make sure you have 24vac at the contactor. If you don't recheck your wiring. Also you can go to the thermostat and install a jumper between R and Y. The contactor should pull in. If it does, your thermostat may be the problem. Let me know what you find so I can offer more advice.

Aug 05, 2010 | Goodman CPLE24-1 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

My heat pump will not come on in HEAT or A/C. I thought I might have a simple defrost control board problem, but still no go after replacing the board and the defrost relay. I checked the pressure switch...

Hi; Need more info. How old is the equipment,look on the outside unit data plate it will give the built date usually in the top right corner. Also heat pumps can run with a faulty defrost board. I would check for control voltage at the secondary side of the transformer should be atleast 24 volts ac. Also the test post on the defrost board are for troubleshooting a defrost problem not an operational problem.When the posts are temporarely shorted the condensor will go into a defrost cycle This step will let the tech. know if defrost is operating normally. Also I have seen a reset switch manualy reset but not reinergize the control voltage. Also the outdoor unit has a delay timer that will wait for freon press. to equalize befor letting the unit operate. One more thing do You now if Your tstat is operating normally. One more idea is the defrost sensor if faulty it can leave the condensor in a defrost state of operation. This intern will sometimes go to heat strips because they are used in the defrost cycle to warm up the air conditioning going on durring a defrost cycle. One more thought is does the control contactor have 24 to 27 volts going to it if so replace the contactor. To test this using a voltage meter and touch after waiting 5 min. both sides of the coil. Remember voltage is deadly so ..When in doubt call a qualified tech.I ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR INJURIES TO YOU OR THE EQUIPMENT BE CAREFULL!!! IF YOU GROUND YOURSELF BETWEEN 230VOLTS THIS BE VERY BAD...alpharome416

Jan 23, 2010 | Ruud UBHC Air Conditioner

1 Answer

No heat or cool on my payne heat pump

If you can manually push in on the contactor and the fan runs, your not getting 24 volts across the contactor coil.
If the contactor is not energized, your compressor want be running, the contactor controls the fan and compressor.
You need to measure the voltage across the contactor coil and if you don't have 24 volts then you need to either jumper the pressure swiches or measure the voltage across the pressure switches if you read 24 volts then they are open.
If low pressure switch is open you are probably low on refrigerant, if high pressure switch is open it's bad.
If these check out ok then you might check the low voltage wires for loose connections or the wires from unit back to house and under the house to see if there's any breaks or insulation chewed up from lawn mower or animals.

Jan 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

New unit just quit no compressor, no fan, breaker not trip, blower unit working fine

Remove the access cover from the outside unit. Find the contactor. It is the part that has the high voltage incoming wires attached. There is a button/bar in the center of the contactor. Use a insulated screwdriver or a wood pencil and push the bar in. If the unit starts you will have to trace the low voltage circuit from the thermostat and air handler to the outside. 24 volts should be present at the low voltage contactor terminals via the defrost board. If you have 24 volts to the defrost board,turn off the outside power, remove the red low voltage wire from the defrost board then reattach it. The board may be tripped on a low voltage fault.
Report back here with your result.

Oct 18, 2009 | Carrier 38BRC036 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Fan and compressor on outside unit not working.

If you read 24 volts at the contactor and it does not pull in, the contactor is bad. If you do not read 24 volts at the contactor the problem is with the thermostat, thermostat wire or a defrost board and pressure switches if so equipped.

Aug 09, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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