When i plug my wd63 in it trips the electric it only seems to do it if i turn the programmer to the end of a cycle but think it has done it at other stages but really not sure also not sure ir it does it in dry mode or only wash mode
I had the same problem.. take the top off the machine using the 2? back screws... next to the drum there are a load of wires strapped to a metal rod.. when the machine is in use them wires go all over the place & one of the wires on my machine had cut through & the actual BARE wire was catching the metal.. hence tripping out all the time - MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST! I just put some electrical tape over it & strapped the wires up a bit more :)
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Could be several reasons:
- Selected the "Night cycle" program (means standing with the drum full of water, reason: too much noise in the spin cycle)
- Set to the "Rinse hold" (means standing with the drum full of water, reason: wrinkles on the clothes)
According to your description I think that this is not a failure otherwise error E20 will be appears on display.
Once the washing programme has come to an end, END illuminates on the programme progress display.
If RINSE HOLD was selected, the display beside the START/ PAUSE button flashes. 1. After a rinse hold, the water must first be pumped out:
- Either press the START/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out and the washing is spun according to the completed programme;
After the START/PAUSE button is pressed again, the spin speed can still also be changed during spinning), or
- Turn the programme selector to PUMP OUT and press the START/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out without spinning),or
- Turn the programme selector to SPIN or SHORT SPIN and press theSTART/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out and the washing is spun or gently spun).
At the end of this programme step, the END indicator will illuminate. 2. Open the door.
As soon as the DOOR indicator lights up green, the door can be opened.
This tells me that you do not have an overload situation. There is a short, and/or one or more faulty breakers possibly including the main breaker.
Even an experienced DIY'er with electrical knowledge would probably contact an electrician at this point. If there is a potential problem with the main breaker then it is best to get professional help.
I had to have a tech come out for the same problem two weeks ago. They had to clean the lint collector which you cannot get to on your own. He said now that this has been done everytime I use the machine, take the clothes out and then run a rinse spin cycle.
I also have a wd63 and was running it on an extention (2core). Was having the same problem. Ensure this device is earthed as there is a large capacitor that needs an earth. Otherwise you can get a small electric shock and a rcd will pick this up straight away!
something is going down to earth, start by unplugging the motor and retesting, if it doesn't trip them check the motor carbons etc, if it trips then check the heater element for contact down to earth, replace if needed etc, then check the outlet pump the same way
if i have helped rate me please
ps when working on machine remove from power supply
Suggest you turn the power off, remove the top cover, diconnect the live and neutral connections to the dryer element (likely to be two of each flavour of connection if the machine has high and low dry settings). Pop a bit of insulating tape around the wire ends so you don't short anything out.
Now try to put the machine through a drying cycle. If it works (albeit cold) without tripping the house power, you need a new dryer element.
If the house power still trips, turn the power off again and without reconnecting the element wires, disconnect and tape the live and neutral wires from the blower motor.
Again, try to run a drying cycle. If this stops the house power tripping, then it looks like a motor problem (though this would be quite unusual).
If the house power still trips, you need to have a careful look at all the wiring between the main timer, the dryer timer, any hi/lo heat switch, the blower motor and the element with its associated thermostats and thermal cutouts (all located near the element on the air duct). Look in particular for chafes where wires go round corners, and where wiring crosses from the case to the suspended machinery in the middle of the machine.
Pop any follow-on queries in the comments section of this question - I'll keep half an eye on it.
I think that what you're seeing is a faulty water heating element.
The element is kept switched off until the pressure switch (the thing on the end of the clear tube) detects that there's enough water in the machine for it to be safe to start heating without burning the element out.
If the element is faulty, it will take out your earth leakage trip as soon as the pressure switch applies power(the usual failure mode is pinhole leaks in the element sheath, allowing water in to compromise the powdered mineral insulation inside).
Confirm by running few cold wash cycles. If the machine works fine with these, but fails when you have a warm cycle selected, then element it is.
The element lives in the bottom of the drum. You should be able to get a new one on the net for under £23.
Does the drum turn during the wash cycle?
When it comes to the spin cycle does it go through to the end without the drum turning?
It sounds like it could be the motor needs new carbon brushes.