SOURCE: Gauges all went dead on instrument cluster!!!
Had same problem on my 95' about 3 times in 7 or 8 years. Pulled trim panel off around gauges/speedo cluster. 4 screws if I remember correctly, and pulled the instrument cluster out far enough to disconnect plug at back off cluster. Now, the plug that is there,in the dash, that connects to back of cluster, I wiggled or whatever I had to do, ( maybe push it out through the back, then feed it back through hole to front) to get it to come out through the front. Now, see all those little male spades inside the cluster where that connector attaches, I took a pair of small needle nose pliers and bent the very ends of them all,slightly, enough to make better contact with plug in dash, but not so much that they wont go back in to females in dash plug. Then I re-attached plug to back of cluster, after a little di-electric grease applied in plug, pushed cluster back in to position, & just lined up plug in hole where it came out, without putting it in from backside again, so as to allow spades to go deeper in plug, to also aid in getting better contact. The cluster will go back where it was pretty well, but not enough difference to cause any problems, tightened it back in with screws, snapped my trim back on, and fired it up, and all was working again. What I found was that the temperature would kind of dictate when the gauges acted up, so I figured plastic, expansion, contraction might be the cause. For a while, a good wack on top of the dash above the cluster, and everything would come back on, for a while. Anyway, might seem a little tedious but it really only took me about an hour the first time, and a half hour thereafter. Good Luck, hope it cures yours too. Let me know how it goes.
SOURCE: security System
I have had all of the above problems with my 2001 Monte Carlo for about 3 months. Idiot lights flashing, gauges not working, car not starting, radio locked. I was convinced it was the BCM and possibly the instrument cluster too, but didn't want to gamble hundreds of dollars on a "fix" that may not work. This afternoon, when the car wouldn't start and all of the gauges were dead, I turned the switch to "ON" and pulled the fuse for "CLUSTER/BCM" to the right of the relay for "retained accessory power", and then reinserted it. The gauges immediately came alive, the radio came on, and the car started on the first try. Just sayin'... might be worth a try for you. Also replace battery terminal bolts ($6) and check battery ground to frame. Mine briefly behaved better after servicing these items, but problems returned. The "fuse fix" however seems at present to be "permanent". The fuse wasn't bad... just apparently didn't have a really good connection, and the BCM is working now. There are two other fuses for BCM functions also. If you have problems with the heated seats not working (mine weren't) try pulling and reinserting the fuse for LH HTD seat/BCM. My heated seats immediately worked after that one. There's also one for PCM/BCM which, if you pull it while the engine is running will shut down the engine. Don't know if there are still issues with the BCM starting to "go bad", but everything is now working fine, with no idiot lights. Keeping my fingers crossed.
SOURCE: oil boiler reset button not working
Your Nozzle is probably plugged. I've found that to be the case most times. I work for a oil company and have found when people run out it tends to pull crudd from the bottom of the tank and plugs the nozzle. and while you're at it, you should change the oil filter and pump strainer. Good luck. If your unsure how to do any of the repairs I highly suggest you call a service guy to do it for you. Oil burners can be very dangerous, and can be a supplier of carbon monoxide in your home. Be carefull.
SOURCE: Can´t open the rear tail
If you squeese the handle put your head near the badge you should hear one
micro switch operating the window and a noise like well hard to explain
but its a solenoid operating the rear latch after the window drops, you
can get the inside panel off bit hard with door locked; at bottom of door
panel is four philips screws take them out and then the panel pulls from
the bottom up,cut round water shredder and you can operate latch
manually to get it open then check to see if micro switch in handle is
working its not a rear wiper fault or window fault as they work, the
relay for the rear door latch and the rear window are behind the offside
rear quarter panel 3 connectors for rear door electrics, the relays are
up by the seat at top,its not normally a relay issue either rear door
latch solenoid or micro switch in back handle but rule out the handle as
window works.
Disconect battery and wait 5 min and try again it worked on mine.
Hope helps.
SOURCE: Sorry my car was not
You are going to need to check the power lock control moduel on the inside of the door panel. If the FOB appears to be working but the doors are not unlocking, you need to check this. I would also replace all fuses that control the locks. If both of these devices check out ok, you may need to replace your FOB. To check your power lock control moduel, manually lock and unlock your doors by pressing the lock button on the inside of the door. If it does not work, it is either the fuses or the power lock control moduel. If it works, your FOB has gone bad. Hope this helps! Please rate 4 thumbs up!
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