Question about Kenmore 99123 Electric Kitchen Range

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970-698239 my front right element turns hot as soon as I turn on the breaker...and don't where the swithc to this touch panel...any ideas??? please help

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Re: 970-698239

I'm having trouble with the model # provided. If there is no switch directly behind the knob that turns that element on then it has a control board that is most likely behind the back panel about midway down on the left side. If it is this setup you will need to replace the board. If it has a switch directly behind the knob then replace that switch. Make sure unit is not plugged in when looking for or replacing parts.

Posted on Oct 06, 2007

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Hot Surfacelight stays on. How do I fix it please.

First Shut the power off to the Range at circuit breaker! If THAT TOP IS STILL ON?! Your range is Haunted! You have a fault in the circuitry which is usually called a Dead Ground. Meaning there is a ground wire that is frayed and touching bare metal. This is keeping the circuit open or On. The Other is you have a faulty knob that turns the element on/off. The knob (switch) can be tested but is Very Involved~! I would replace your switch that controls the surface element staying hot. Usually (cause we use them more) it is the front two and one of them is worn out (just like people get). IF, you still have an issue your going to have to trace the Black wire back with a Lighted Probe you can get at Auto Zone/Pep Boys for $5. This handy tool will light up if you have the Range completely off at circuit breaker and you start at the element and work towards the switch (knob). If any part lights up and it is properly grounded. There is your fault or open frayed wire needs replacing. Good Luck!

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1 Answer

I have a rheem warrior glass water heater serial no rh1199629294 model no 71-308 i need to know where the reset button is please?

You should have an access plate on top and at bottom. Before removing the covers, turn off the breaker that controls the water heater. Now unscrew the top cover. There may be some insulation covering the thermostat (the control that shows the temperature to heat the water to). Move any insulation out of the way and you should see a red button on the front of the thermostat. Press the button. You may feel a click, you may not. Now go over and turn the breaker back on and listen to the heater. KEEP HANDS AND EVERYTHING CLEAR OF THE THERMOSTAT IN THE OPENING.
Do you hearing gurgling or whining? This would indicate it is heating water. If you hear it, turn the breaker back off and put any insulation back in and replace the access cover. Go back and turn on the breaker and you are done. If you didn't hear anything now it is time to pull the lower access cover. Make sure the breaker is off and remove the lower cover. Repeat by removing insulation and pressing the button. Test by turning on the circuit breaker REMAINING AWAY FROM THE ACCESS.
If this time you hear hissing/gurgling/whining sounds it is on. Turn off the breaker, replace the insulation and replace the access. Now turn the breaker back on and you are done. If after all this you get nothing. It is time for a voltmeter and caution.
You will need to remove each access door (with the circuit breaker off) and make it to where you can test for voltage on the power connections to the elements. Start at the bottom as this is the initial element powered by the unit. Put your voltmeter on a high scale (500VAC is good but it must be set to minimum 300VAC-High is fine-lower is bad) and put your probes on the 2 phillips head screws/bolts that the electrical wires connect on. You should see apx 220-240 VAC. If not, test from one screw to the metal fame of the tank where you see the green wire bolted to. You should see 110-120 VAC. If no voltage is at the bottom, the top reset isn't working. Try resetting the top thermostat again. Test for voltage at bottom. No luck? It may be time to replace the top thermostat/control. All major hardware stores sell them. Disconnect the wires and it should slide up and off the unit. Replace it.
If there is voltage at the bottom then the element is most like gone bad. To test this, turn off the breaker and unhook one of the screws that holds the power wire to one side of the element. Put your voltmeter on Ohms and test for a connection (continuity). If it shows a reading the element may be working or it may just have a small connection internally and fail when it is powered up. This is a tough one to diagnose outside the tank but if you see no connection (no reading) the element has broken in the tank and removal and replacement is in order. Turn off the water to the tank along with the breaker. Connect a garden hose to the valve at the bottom of the tank and drain the water out. Disconnect the wires and with a large element removal tool (you might get away with a large channel lock but if you round off the element you will hate yourself) remove the element. You can get the remover at the hardware stores for $8-10. The elements usually have their wattage on the end so replace it with the same wattage element. Reverse the process and lastly turn on the water, check for leaks then turn the circuit breaker back on. You should hear a hissing/gurgling/whining sound as the element heats up. good luck and BE SAFE!

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1 Answer

Oven is "kicking" the circuit breaker, any ideas?

Is it kicking the breaker will all of the controls off? Or only when you turn on a certain one? Usually when an oven kicks a breaker there is a shorted heating element or.... a broken wire to one of the elements where the terminal got hot and the wire or terminal melted off and is now lying on the chassis somewhere. It could be on the stove top or either of the bake elements. The only way to find the short if it is NOT visible is to disconnect "one wire,k" element by element and read each wire to chassis ground. With the controls off none of the wires should read to chassis ground. You can get a false ground due to the resistance of other elements depending on where you are checking the circuit.

Hopefully these ideas... will give you something to look for.

Thanks for using FixYa,


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Element Melted - Turned White Hot/on fire and would not go out

You need to replace the element. Very easy to do. Cut power off at the breaker or unplug the stove FIRST (please!). Remove the two 1/4" screws securing the element to the oven cavity then two wires to the element just unplug. The wires can go either way. Call 1-800-626-2002 or go to the GE Appliance web site for the part. It is a WB44T10011 for the lower (bake) element and WB44T10009 for the top (broil) element.

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1 Answer

Problem w/burners & lights after self clean

You may want to re-seat the right two cooking elements, in case there is poor electrical contact. When you have them removed, clean the contacts with denatured 91% alcohol and a Q-tip. The removal procedure follows.
First, unplug the range.
To lift:  When cool, grasp the cooktop front 
edge.  Gently lift up until the two support rods 
snap into place. 
To lower:  Hold the cooktop front edge and 
carefully push back on each support rod to 
release.  Then lower the top into place. 
➢When an element is on, it will cycle on 
and off to maintain the heat setting. 
➢Coil elements are self-cleaning. Do not 
immerse in water. 
To remove:  When cool, raise element.  Carefully pull out and away from receptacle. 
Check them for damage. They do wear out.
To replace:  Insert element terminals into receptacle.  Guide the element into place. Press down on the outer edge of element until it sits level on drip bowl. 
➢ On Canadian models, the two front elements will not operate during self-clean.To prevent the risk of electric shock or fire, never line drip bowls with aluminum foil.

If that does work, you may have a faulty control panel. In that case, call Maytag at the number below. 

Maytag Customer Service
533 Benson Road
Benton Harbor,MI 49022 

(800)688-9900 U.S.
(800)688-2002 Canada 

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2 Answers

Bottom element will not turn off

Your BAKE element relay on the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) Board is shorted.  I have experienced this problem before.  The board is not serviceable and (unfornately) you will have to replace it.  The board can run anywhere from $100 to $200 for a new one.  Slightly less for a refurbished one.  Prices will also vary depending on source.  This is a repair you can do yourself if you choose to do so.  If you can provide me with your model number (located inside the lower door panel), I can do some research to get a part number and price for you.  Let me know.  I hope this is helpful.

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2 Answers

Oven goes into Hyper Hot Immediateley?

It's either a problem in the board or one of the elements is shorted to ground.  Most likely one of the relays on the board is bad so the board would have to be replaced.  If you have a multimeter you can check this.  Unplug the range and take the back panel off to get to the elements.  Take one wire off of each of the elements. Set meter to ohms to check resistance.  Put one meter lead on one end of the element (where you disconnected the wire) and the other lead to ground.  If that shows resistance then the element is shorted to ground.  Do this with both elements.  If neither element is grounded then replace the oven control board.

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