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When unit is set to cooling, unit powers up and indoor and outdoor units start. The LEV doesn't seem to operate. The liquid line freezes up from the LEV all the way in to the Evaporator. The unit pumps down almost into a vacuum. I'm not sure if its the board or the LEV coil which is bad. Looking for a way to check either and eliminate buying to parts.
Thanks,
Derek Carpenter
Air Solutions HVAC
An LEV is an electronic expansion valve. It operates similar to a solenoid valve, yet has the capability to modulate how far it opens or closes.An LEV is an electronic expansion valve. It operates similar to a solenoid valve, yet has the capability to modulate how far it opens or closes.
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It's possible you have a bad data wire on one of the systems. Swap the data wire or both if two with a different wire. (1&4--2&3) whatever. Whatever you do inside obviously do outside. Might have extra resistamce that is throwing the error but will be fine for a ground wire.Or do one system at a time, being sure to change your dip switch settings until you figure out the problem unit. Good Luck!!
If a unit is in heating mode the outdoor unit is in cooling mode (outside always does opposite of indoor) after a while if there is a build up of ice on outdoor coil unit stops and puts hot gas through outdoor coil to clear it. The indoor fan stops to avoid and heat loss in area served buy unit once this has been done and indoor unit coil is hot again fan will start. This is the correct operation of the unit to save against bust could and reduced efficiency
Make sure the mode is set to freeze and temperature is set to below the room temperature.
If it is a split system, check the outdoor unit whether it is running. If it is running, see if you can reach and feel the temperature of the pipes connecting between the indoor and the outdoor unit. It should be cool.
If it is not cool, you may need to get somebody to check the refrigerant.
Check the air filter and if it is dirty, replace..
Turn equipment off and let the ice melt.
After ice melts, place a/c in cooling mode and set the thermostat to 3 degrees below room temp display.
The indoor unit fan should start blowing cold air immediately and then turn off once the room temp drops one degree below the cooling temp setting.
If the indoor unit does cycle off, check the outdoor unit and make sure it turns off at the same time.
If the outdoor unit continues to run and the indoor fan is not running, the indoor unit will ice up.
A defective compressor relay that is stuck in a closed position will cause icing of the indoor unit because it keeps the compressor running when it should turn off with the indoor fan.
Do you have an error code being displayed on the controller?
Is there an led light that is flashing on the indoor unit?
Another possibility causing the indoor unit to ice up is if the freon in the system starts to get low.
Make sure the ice has all melted for this next check.
Pretty easy to check without special tools.
If the air filter is clean and there is no dust/ dirt blocking the fins on the indoor unit, turn a/c back on to cool and check that the indoor unit fan comes on and is blowing air good.
Once everything seems to running good go to the outdoor unit.
There will be two lines with black rubber insulation covering them.
Peel back the insulation three inches on each line and observe the copper lines.
If either line starts to frost up the a/c system is most likely low on refrigerant.
Another cause of indoor unit icing could be that the aluminum fins behind the air filter are clogged with dust or other foreign material.
This would block the air that must be pulled in causing the indoor unit coil to become too cold due to lack of air flow and it will ice up.
Operating the cooling system when the outdoor temperature is below 60 degrees can cause the indoor unit to ice up also.
I'm Robert.
Florida certified a/c contractor. 30 years experience.
Hope this helps.
My unit is a 3 year old Mitsubishi and it started making the humming noise you described. It is quite high and I finally got up on a ladder to have a look. It is the water pump making the noise in my case. It seemed like it was pumping a little too much water out. I undid a screw and angled the pump slightly and problem solved.
hope this makes sense and helps a little.
I assume its the outside unit of the bedroom that freezes up ?? If the outdoor temperature is below 5 degrees celcuis, its likely to freeze up on the outdoor coil ( On heating mode), there is a defrost function which defrosts the machine automatically. If the indoor unit starts to freeze up ( on cooling mode), I would suggest that there is a shortage of refrigerant gas. Especially if the indoor unit starts to "spit" water out when it is running. There may be a gas leak due to a pipe failure or loose flared fitting. These must be rectified before recharging with gas.
Fault Code 05. This fault code indicates a communication error between the indoor and outdoor units; this is usually caused by wiring errors or condensate pumps connected to the inter-connecting cable. The communication between the units is a fluctuating DC voltage commonly called a serial signal, it can be easily lost if the wiring is not done correctly. If there is a communication error fault CH05 will appear within 5 mins of powering up the system. Testing • Check Outdoor and Indoor Power Supply Voltages ( 230V ±10% ) and correct as necessary. • Check for any mis-wiring or loose connections and correct as required. • Check the resistance between communication line and GND. (Normal: Over 2M). • If one Indoor unit operates normally Outdoor PCB is generally normal. Turn on the power and start the indoor unit in cooling, set the temperature to 18ºC; the serial communication signal will only be present for the first 3 mins of operation. Set your meter to DC Volts, Test between terminals 5 (Red probe) and 2 or Earth (Black probe) of the outdoor unit, you should see a fluctuating 0-72 Vdc. If the Voltage is not present disconnect the terminal 5 cable, test the Voltage between this wire (Red probe) and 2 or Earth (Black probe), you should see a steady voltage in the range of -0.1 to -10.0 Vdc. If No Voltage is present either the cable or Indoor PCB must be faulty. This can be determined by checking the voltage output on the Comms terminal of the Indoor unit, with the Comms wire disconnected. If No Voltage is present the Indoor PCB must be faulty, if present, cable must be at fault. Helpful?
This is a signal fault between the indoor and outdoor first make sure the dip switches are set start with the unit closest to the condensor set as unit 1 then next unit as 2 and so on the dip switches are inside the indoor unit on the pc board if you check the manual it will tell you which swithes to set, if this wasnt done when the units where installed they would have never worked i would also check the signal wiring between the wallmount and the splitter box / bc box and make sure there isnt a loose connection when you have ruled this out id say more than likely it is a faulty indoor board on the wallmounted unt
An LEV is an electronic expansion valve. It operates similar to a solenoid valve, yet has the capability to modulate how far it opens or closes.
Where is it receiving power from, check there first.
What is an LEV ? Do you mean a Solenoid valve ?
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