At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
I'm replacing the drive block on my Kenmore model 70 washer, but I'm having trouble getting the spin basket off of the drive block (assuming that's my next disassembly step). I've taken the agitator off and out, and have been applying WD-40 and several whacks of a hammer on the drive shaft (with wood block between, to prevent damage to the shaft), but the spin basket won't lift out. Anything I'm missing? Do I need to hit it HARDER?
Just to be sure, I should be lifting on the spin basket while whacking the drive block and drive shaft downward? We have given this baby many, many good whacks. The wood block is destroyed, we're looking for another.Just to be sure, I should be lifting on the spin basket while whacking the drive block and drive shaft downward? We have given this baby many, many good whacks. The wood block is destroyed, we're looking for another.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
Yes .it has to be hit very harder at the sides to get the spin basket removed.also check at the sides if its tilted and blocking then make it proper and remove it.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
KENMORE top load, direct drive, neutral drain washers are made by Whirlpool.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Assuming that the springs are OK and that the vibration pads are in place and not worn, (See the Sears diagram or the following Whirlpool Service manual)
The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.
Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.
Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.
A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.
Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.
As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.
Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same. Whirlpool (and Sears) have replacement brake pad / spring sets.
The washer uses a brake system to stop the basket at the end of the spin cycle.
Just like a brake on a car, it's designed to slip a bit so that the basket / car doesn't come to an abrupt halt.
Over time, the brake shoes can jam against the brake drum and bring the basket to a halt too quickly with a lot of noise.
A way to solve this (that I tried and it works) is to pull the basket tube / brake assembly and if the brake shoes look OK, spray a small amount of silicone spray on the inside of the brake drum.
Following is a description of how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor, transmission and basket drive tube on Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper direct drive washers.
As an aside, you don't need a special spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. I've found that a short (10") pipe wrench hooked over one of the spanner nut tabs and tapped with a hammer will usually loosen the nut. Also, rather than hitting the Drive block directly with a hammer, put a short piece of wood under it first to protect it.
Following are the Whirlpool Service manual for this type of washer and the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers although the consumer models are basically the same.
If you can hear the motor and the washer drains during the spin cycle the Motor Coupler and Lid Switch (the usual problems with these washers) are not the problem.
These washers use a clutch which allows the "basket tube" to spin up to speed during the spin cycle.
If the clutch bands or springs are worn or damaged, the transmission cannot transmit power to the basket tube for spining.
See the following on how to remove the cabinet,agitators, basket, pump, transmission and basket tube. (It's not as difficult as it sounds.)
Instead of using a special spanner wrench on the spanner nut, I've used a short 10" pipe wrench hooked onto one of the tabs on the nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen the nut. I also put a short piece of wood under the Basket Drive Block and hit the wood instead of the drive block directly.
Check the clutch bands and springs and the tabs on top of the basket tube and the slots in the basket drive block.
It could be a couple of things. Either the basket drive block has worn or come loose and the spin tub from the basket drive is "clunking" as it skips by the notches in the block, or the basket drive spin tub has broke from the hub/base. It is likely the prior not the later.
Pull the agitator and inspect the block/hub in the center directly below the agitator which holds the basket in place. if it looks worn or is out of place, you'll likely need a tech.
If you can tackle it yourself, the block number is #389140. You want to be sure the spin tube still has the two notches in it though, otherwise the changing of the block will be futile.
its possible the ears on the top of the drive tube have worn alowing the basket drive block to slip and not turn the clothes basket with authority, or the basket drive block has just worn from overloading and needs replacing.. is easy to verify by looking.. best of luck, ttfn
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action
Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Two things to check are the Basket Drive Block and the Brake and Drive Tube.
The clutch on the transmission drives the Brake and Drive Tube when in spin mode, the Basket Drive Block transmits the spinning of the Drive tube to the tub.
See the following description of how to pull the cabinet, agitators, drive block and drive tube.
As an aside, you don't need to buy a special spanner wrench to remove the Drive Block Basket Lock Nut. I found that by using a short 10" pipe wrench, opened all the way and hooked over one of the tabs on the nut, and giving it a short whack with a hammer, the nut will come loose.
Check that the basket drive block fits on the drive tube with the two tabs on the drive tube fitted into the slots in the drive block.
ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.
no that is a shipping pin when they pulled the strap those pins fall into those little cups instead of onto the floor. so it does not spin. does it agetate? if the answer is yes you probaly have a good drive coupler. Possible suspects would be a bad transmission if it is stuck in nuetral drain, clutch if you can push start the basket in spin cycle you have a bad clutch, bad drive block you need to take the agetator off and check to see if the drive block is not raised from the basket drive basket drive has 2 ears that fit into the drive block.
You need to replace the drive block and basket drive. You can download a tutorial to get you started at www.shop.washermd.com. The gearcase replacement tutorial will put you in the right direction. Dave
Just to be sure, I should be lifting on the spin basket while whacking the drive block and drive shaft downward? We have given this baby many, many good whacks. The wood block is destroyed, we're looking for another.
×