TRUE COOLER COMPRESSOR CYCLES ON 45 SECONDS AND OFF FOR 2 MINUTES.SEEMS TO COOL FINE MAINTAINS 38 DEGREES, OTHER TRUE COOLER WE HAVE DOES NOT DO THIS...ANY SUGGESTIONS?

This Video will show You What it looks like to replace compressor. REPLACING COMPRESSOR TRUE AIR BEER COOLER R134A

If you hear a clicking noise coming from the compressor there is about a 80% chance that the compressor is dead. But you'll have to call someone out to be sure.
If the fan motor behind the grill is running (condenser fan) then the compressor should be running and vice versa. If the compressor is hot as a pistol and clicking and the fan motor is not working then it may cool down if you shut it off and you might just have a bad fan motor. With power turned off the condenser fan motor should freely spin. Compressor have a 5 year warranty from the manufacture not including labor and additional materials. Hope this helps.

You have to verify that the compressor is running. Don't assume that it is just because the fan is running. the compressor may not be running. If compressor is running, good possibility that it is low on refrigerant. Most common and obvious.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. Your hearing the compressor Thermal overload cycle every few minutes for no more than 45 seconds. The compressor is not starting at all or it is not cycling from the start winding to the run winding so the KliXon thermal overload is tripping. That switching of windings is done by the PTC relay mounted on the side of the compressor. The Compresor part number is EMY32CLC. PTC relays can be found here:
http://www.europart.co.uk/s.nl/sc.2/category.690082/.f You will have to match your relay to the image.

I would recommend using the phone locally to purchase the relay AFTER performing the following.
POWER OFF / Unplugged WAIT 30 minutes for the compressor to cool and the coolant pressures to stabilize. After 30 minutes plug in the unit and see if the compressor starts.


POWER OFF / Unplugged
IF after 30 minutes the compressor does not restart....
1. Read the pins of the compressor to the case of the compressor. No grounds allowed.
2. Read pin 1 to pin 2 (on 2 pin compressor) you should read resistance.
3. If you have a 3 pin compressor only 2 of the 3 pins will read to each other at any given time. One for start winding and one for run winding with 3rd pin being common.

A locked compressor rotor/armature will also cause the compressor not to start. A locked rotor requires compressor replacement. (Fingers crossed lets hope that the rotor is not locked!)

Hopefully your unit will restart. A momentary loss of power will cause a compressor to hot cycle and not restart. All it takes is about a 8 second power loss to put the compressor into this no start frenzy. Do the 30 min no power thing and see what happens. (maybe save your self lots of money.)

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

That is a broad question. Lets do a checklist. When you plug the unit in the compressor behind the grill on the front should come on and the fan in front of the compressor should come on. The radiator in the compressor compartment needs to be clean from all dust and grease. Many times this is overlooked and can cause real problems by letting the compressor overheat. Now look inside and find the fan cover. It hangs from the inside top of the cooler. It should also be running. If either fan is not running the unit will not cool. Sometimes there is an obstruction, such as someone pushing a six pack up against the fan cover and pushing it into the fan. The fan down by the compressor is sometimes blocked by the cardboard shroud that is built around the fan. Also in a few cases rodents have gotten caught in that fan. If everything is running, you will have to look deeper into the compressor compartment. There is a screw in the front of the radiator that hold the compressor unit in the cooler. Unplug the unit from the wall. Remove that screw and slowly and carefully pull the compressor unit towards the front of the beer box. It will slide almost all the way out. You will see a coil of copper tubing at the back of the compressor that allows enough slack in the lines to slide this unit out. When you push this unit back in it helps to have someone behind the cooler to pull back on that coil as you push the unit back into the machine so it does not get crimped. With the compressor unit pulled out, plug it back in at the wall. If your compressor is running and you have proper amount of refrigerant, the small copper tube from the compressor to the radiator will get very hot, enough to burn your finger, after two or three minutes. After 10 minutes the larger copper line that is usually enclosed in a rubber sheathing should get cold. One way to know if you have a burned out compressor is to listen to the compressor and fans when you first plug into the power outlet. A bad compressor will usually try to start for 2 or 3 seconds and then click out. While it is trying to start the fan will slow down because the compressor is pulling way too many amps and is pulling power away from the fan until it clicks out again. If you can hear the compressor come on and run but it makes no heat to the radiator, you probably have a refrigerant leak. Your freon is gone or almost gone. If it was a slow leak you would usually notice that the cooler does not seem to cool like it once did. If it was working good and suddenly stopped cooling, the most likely problem is a bad compressor. Changing a compressor is usually beyond the average do it yourselfer because it requires welding the unit in place and gauges and a supply of refrigerant which is almost impossible to get without a liscense. Let me know what you find out.

If you can gain access to the compressor, you will see 2 copper lines going to the compressor. One is smaller than the other. VERY CAREFULLY lightly touch the smaller line while the unit is running. If the compressor is running, that line will be extremely hot.
Start there.
Let me know if I can be of further help.

2 things, eithere the ice maker is "calling for water" and your not hiiked to a water supply. in which case simply turn of ice maker till you restore water to the machine.
ohter noise sounds if perhaps the compressor is not cycling correctly, overheating, nad when tries to restart you hear it try for 10 secs or so, then click off. in which case youll seee the freezer stating to lose "cool" especially "wet ice" and/or soft ice cream products.. if this is the case you can try to clean the coils under/behind the refrig, and may need to replace the starting device mounted to the side of the compressor

Relay on the compressor bad.

Try unpluging for 30 - 45 min until the compressor has cooled down then plug it back in. If it doesn't start replace the relay. Most service techs carry a universal relay and wiil put the relay on, if it starts, your good to go, if not, then the compressor is bad.

If the compressor tries to go on every two minutes, then the relay is functioning.

1. If the compressor has failed, it might be getting hot and tripping the thermal overload to shut itself down. It will cycle like you say and will be unable to cool the fridge.

2.It's also possible that you have lost refrigerant from the system. When the compressor goes on, the pressure drops below a threshold value. The system sees that there is not enough pressure, and shuts down. Once the pressure rebuilds, it tries again.

3. If the fins in the rear of the fridge are clogged with dust/debris, the system will not be efficient enough to cool. I doubt this is the case as the compressor would generally just stay on for a long time... longer than 2 minutes.

Try turning the thermostat to the coldest setting possible for both the fridge and the freezer. If the unit still cycles off after 2 minutes, consider repair.