Locomotive moves then stops

I had the same problem with one old locomotive. There are three things to check:

1. the main power slide switch is set on the rigth position
2. on the bottom of the loco, there a small red bump, it is perhaps blocked in the pushed position
3. this one was the solution for me. Dismantle the battery cap and make sure that both metallical parts are in contact.

It sounds as if you:
A ~ have dirty track.
B ~ have dirty wheels on your locomotive.

Solution is to clean both the track and wheels on your locomotive.

This sounds like the cover plate that's mounted on the side of the disk unit.It's normally fastened with two or three bolts and they do come loose at times. Could also be the actual disk pads that have worn down to metal, which will move away from the disk for a few seconds after hitting a bump.If so, make sure that your disks are not scoured as a result of metal on metal contact, whereby you would have to fit a new disk with the new pads.Check it out. Good luck.

Why would hitting a bump have anything to do with a computer?

Vehicles hit bumps on every road trip

Computer is a solid state board,no moving parts

You do not specify which Santa Fe steam engine you have, but I am going to guess it's the Santa Fe RTR O27 set...

Here's a link to the manual for it. Go to page 9, read the last paragraph on the page. It may be the answer to your problem


.http://www.lionel.com/media/servicedocuments/71-1900-250.pdf


Hope this helps.

Try cleaning the track AND wheels with an INK ERASER. Put the engine on the track and help it along. It could just be tight from sitting in the box. I live about 8 miles from the Strasburg railroad and have 2 relatives working there. We have ALL experienced the same thing on4 different sets. It isn't just the Strasburg sets that do this, it's most of the new toys. Your Strasburg cars might not connect to other train sets. Their car couplings are different, just like on their real trains.

Hope you got the set working. If not, look underneath the locomotive near the rear (under the "cabin"). There are two switches, one on either side. One says "Smoke", the other says "Reverse". If the "Reverse" switch was set to "Off" when the locomotive was in Neutral, it will stay in neutral even when the power is cycled or the "Direction" button is pressed on the power supply. Even in Neutral, all the lights will work and I believe the smoke element will heat up but won't puff. Whatever setting the "Reverse" switch is on, try changing it to se if that works. Hope this helps...

This does happen on many other bikes; the shifter pawls do not mesh smoothly at low RPMs. Simply let your clutch out partially to "bump" the pawls and gears into better alignment, then engage it again, and it should be much easier to downshift when at a stop.

Unplug, remove the beatters and try again. If still no go, unplug , insert one beatter and try using beater to turn in oppodit direct . Then, if you were able to move it. install second beter and try again. If the evil thing runs, let it run free for several minutes to clean up any gear burs or alignment issues. Good luck and never grab the beaters with the mixer plugged in.

Alas, the traction drive on these Brio locomotives seems to have a pretty short life. According to a Brio rep, the only hope is to indeed give it a good firm solid whack down onto a hard surface (table or floor) in an attempt to get the internal pressure gears to settle down and get more traction. There's a 50/50 chance it might work. There is no other solution. Attempting to open it up will create a mess because it's almost impossible to get all the tiny loaded springs back into place. At least the lights and sounds still work, and it can be easily pushed around the track--it just will no longer do so itself...