Set on Auto I can snap a picture with my camera but cannot view the scene in the picture frame and only get a black square for my trouble when viewed on my computer.
Can anyone figure out what might be the fault with my settings or whatever?
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White balance should be set to auto,
ISO should be set to auto,
flash should be set to auto,
scene should be set to auto,
Exposure Compensation should be set at 0.
If images are still too dark change ISO setting to 200. If that doesn't work change to 400. If that still doesn't work change exposure compensation to +1. If your photos are still too dark your camera is defective.
You are on a popular site and you could really imagine the
place without all the people in the way of lovely place. Sounds like you're
unlucky and you just buy a postcard of that place, right? Not with this trick.
Do you have tripod abundance, time to take a dozen photographs of the site?
Take some test shots to find the exposure you want, set your camera in manual
mode and set the exposure, and start snapping away. Take as many pictures you
need to make every part of the scene as people mill about covering and
uncovering parts of the frame to arrive. Take a few extra for safety.
When you return home, open all the series of images in
Photoshop CS3 Extended. From the top menu, choose File> Scripts> Statistics.
In "Stack Mode Select" dialog, select the "median".
After breaking a few details, will spit out a new Photoshop
image with no one on it. You may need to be a part of their individual files to
be used to clean some items in the process. You take 20 exposure do the trick.
That depends on what you're taking a picture of. Normally, you'd want it on zero.
Use it if the exposure meter produces an exposure too light or too dark for the subject. The camera's meter is designed to render all scenes as a medium gray. If you take a picture of a white dog playing in the snow, the camera will try to render the scene as a medium gray. In this situation you want to use positive exposure compensation to render the scene brighter.
Conversely, if take a picture of a black cat sunning itself on a black car, the camera will again try to render the scene as a medium gray. In this case you want negative exposure compensation to darken the scene.
The focus frame does not appear on the monitor screen while following conditions. • In the Auto mode, while the following settings are configured. - Face Detection : ON - Effect : Make-UP - Auto Shutter : Detect Smile • "MF" or "∞" selected for the focus setting. • BEST SHOT scenes that use the above settings. Example: "4 Portrait" BEST SHOT scene
* Changing the above settings will cause the focus frame to reappear.
If your camera wont keep the memory settigns after turn off the camera, its possible that you have some problem with the internal battery and need to be replaced.
I have a sample image here, I'm not sure how it will load it's a crop from a full frame. I've read into your camera specifications and have found that 15 seconds is the longest shutter speed you can use, I didn't find a "Bulb" for shutter speed and this will limit your abilities to make clear "clarity" night photographs to work within the 15 seconds you will need to increase the ISO, increasing the ISO will introduce a grain effect and the clarity will fall off. I'll give you a starting point some things you won't like what I'm saying but I've been doing this since 1983. You will need a sturdy tripod. Shut the IS off. See if you can focus on your subject and compose. If you can't auto focus (lack of light or contrast) switch to manual focus, focus is critical if you can't obtain this the shot will be useless. After focus compose your scene set your camera at ISO 100, manual mode F11 adjust the shutter speed to give proper exposure increase ISO by one stop and decrease F stop by one (F8) check exposure once you have the exposure recompose your scene. Make sure the camera is in manual focus, IS (image stabilization) is off, set self timer to 2 second delay, check your scene again and release the shutter and don't touch the camera again until the exposure is complete. There is a whole lot more to this and you are limited because of the lack of the bulb feature or a shutter speed greater then 15 seconds. Sample image
I'm not familiar with the A430 specifically, but all digital cameras have exposure settings for the type of picture you're taking (outdoor scene, portrait, shadows, etc.). Since you can take good interior pictures, I think you're likely set on a "indoor" or "shadow" setting rather than "auto". Some of the icons are a little confusing but "auto" is the best setting for most situations. If the camera is set to auto already, then I would suspect that the light sensor is defective and contacting Canon Support is your best option.
The following exposure options are available: P (Program auto), A (Aperture priority), S (Shutter priority), and M (Manual). There are four scene programs modes available in which the camera will choose the optimal settings for the picture:
Landscape: Suitable for taking photos of landscapes and other outdoor scenes. Both the foreground and the background are in focus. Since blues and greens are reproduced vividly in this mode, the landscape mode is excellent for shooting natural scenery.
Portrait: Suitable for shooting a portrait-style image of a person. This mode features an in-focus subject against a blurred background.
Sports: Suitable for capturing fast-moving action such as sports scene or moving vehicles without blurring.
Night scene: Suitable for taking night scene photos with a slower shutter speed.
The following exposure options are available: P (Program auto), A (Aperture priority), S (Shutter priority), and M (Manual). There are five scene programs modes available in which the camera will choose the optimal settings for the picture:
- Landscape + Portrait: Suitable for taking photos of both you subject and background. The picture is taken with the background as well as the subject in the foreground in focus.
- Landscape: Suitable for taking photos of landscapes and other outdoor scenes. Both the foreground and the background are in focus. Since blues and greens are reproduced vividly in this mode, the landscape mode is excellent for shooting natural scenery.
- Portrait: Suitable for shooting a portrait-style image of a person. This mode features an in-focus subject against a blurred background.
- Sports: Suitable for capturing fast-moving action such as sports scene or moving vehicles without blurring.
- Night scene: Suitable for taking night scene photos with a slower shutter speed.
Your camera light meter uses the concept of multi-spot exposure metering, which is sensitive to subtle differences in scene composition. To determine the overall shutter speed for a scene, the meter takes readings from three zones within the frame. With Portrait orientations, the zones remain in the same place (vertical) on the CCD imager. With landscape orientations, however, the zones are more spread out (horizontal) and the dominant (2 dark and 1 light or 2 light and 1 dark) zones determine the shutter speed. This may cause some areas of the picture to be overexposed or underexposed.
When you are photographing scenes with mostly light objects (for example, snow, water, and sand), the picture is usually underexposed (darker than it really is). The camera meter registers the brightness of the scene and tries to set the camera lens and aperture for an exposure based on average brightness levels (18% reflectance) causing it to underexpose, as in the following picture.
When you are photographing scenes with mostly dark objects (for example, shade, shadow, and overcast skies), and very few light objects, the camera may overexpose the image, causing it to be too light. If you have a flash on your camera, you can compensate by adding "fill flash" for some extra light.
If your camera has an exposure compensation adjustment, you can increase or decrease the exposure to correct for these exposure problems. Increase the number to make the image lighter, and decrease the number to make the image darker. You may want to try a series of shots with different exposure compensation adjustments to get a feel for how much difference these adjustments make.