I am trying to find out what the symbols on the front of the welder mean for the different settings.

If the wire speed control on your Millermatic 135 welder is running on high all the time, there could be a few different things causing the problem. Here are a few things you can try to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the wire speed control knob and make sure it is not stuck in the high position. If it is, try gently moving it to the low position and see if the wire speed changes.
2. Inspect the wire speed control potentiometer (pot) and make sure it is not dirty or damaged. Clean it with a contact cleaner if needed, or replace it if it is damaged.
3. Check the wiring going to the wire speed control pot and make sure there are no loose or corroded connections.
4. The problem could be with the circuit board, check for any loose connections or damaged components, and make sure they are not overheating.
5. Check the voltage and amperage of the welder. Make sure it's set to the correct settings for the type of welding you are trying to do.

It's important to check the manual of the welder for troubleshooting steps and also check the warranty of the welder and see if it's still covered by the manufacturer. If you are not able to find the problem or if you are not familiar with welding equipment, it's best to take your welder to a qualified Miller Electric welder repair service center, they will be able to diagnose and fix the issue.

Get someone with electrical knowledge to test the circuits. Do you mean an Arc Welder or do you mean a MIG Welder? They are completely different in operation.

See if your local welding supplier has a welding guide available. Some even include them as part of their catalog.

There is no real hard and fast absolte rule when welding with Mig. If you weld outside, and in the country where line voltage can vary, what worked well a day ago may not work well today. Those tables are only a rough guide at best, and while useful to you starting out, after a time when you are used to your welder, you will not need it.

What the weld looks like from the back side can tell you more useful information than you might get from a simple arbitrary table.

The best guide- experience. Start welding up scrap to get used to the welder, and get used to the sound of frying bacon or eggs. Then you can rely on your own judgement instead of feeling a need to refer to a book each time.

What the simple rule of thumb is, pick a heat range you think you need to use, then grab some scrap and lay out a bead adjusting the wire speed until you hear it sound like bacon on the frying pan. Then you adjust your speed to the thickness of the metal to achieve full *********** and ideally the back side looking like the front side. If not enough ***********- go up a heat range, and reset wire speed and try again.

When I was doing industrial welding for a grain handling equipment company I moved all around the shop and ended up on many different machines. None of them operated with the identical settings of the others even though a couple of them were of the same manufacture..

Hi:
If your wire is "jumping" meaning that it's kicking back, is due to the high speed and low heat input, try to increase your voltage and reduce just a bit the wire speed.
Nozzle size don't have nothing to do if you are using the right gas flow, which is 25-30 SCFH.

Hi:

Since you did not mention here brand or model of welder; I'm pretty sure that your machine it's an AC/DC machine, the series of slotted plates means that the machine will output 50 amps in AC or 80 on DC. 60 in AC or 125 in DC.
If you want to work with lowest amps available, just put the selector on AC and connect your cables to the 50/80 amp side.
You should have a selector lever to switch back and forth from AC to DC in front of the unit.

Hope this work for you.

My ovens not working and don't know what picture to put it on

Transformer is burned out. Various windings are taken off at different points to alter the amount of power, they have eventually burned right through , So that is why some worked and some didn't It has now completely gone. The cost to replace the transformer may well exceed the cost of a new welder.

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I have the same problem with my ya219b every year or so. it is the diodes located on the aluminum plate above the transformer. usually they short first and cause the welder to grun and barely weld at all and the they open up and everything works except for welding. when replacing, pay close attention to the polarity of the diodes. there is usually a little schematic symbol printed on it to tell you which is the anode and which is the cathode

The full sun symbol means full heat drying,, and the half sun symbol means half heat drying.
Plz rate my solution.
Thanks.

Solid line at top indicates the grill. Two indicate the oven.