Question about Amana AFD2535DES French Door Refrigerator

4 Answers

Constant freezing up

First, I'm not sure the model. It could be AFD2535DES, AFD2535DEW or even AFB2534DEW. Bottomline, it's a black Amana French door bottom freezer unit. The issue is that about every week and a half to two weeks, the inner coils at the back of the refrigerator freeze up with ice and heavy frost. Since cold air is drawn from the freezer section to the refrigerator section, the upper refrigerator section will slowly start to warm up. It takes about three days for the refrigerator to go from about 35 degrees to 55 degrees. The freezer stays at about 10 to 15 degrees regardless. I've cleaned the lower coils, double checked the alignment of the doors, cleaned the magnets, re-checked the level. I see no easy access to the rear coil area without splitting the case. I have to go in, pull out the freezer drawer, move all the frozen stuff to the top to keep that area cool and in about eight hours, it's all defrosted. It will work fine again for about another week or two. When it freezes up, it seems to happen qucikly, like within a day and a half, but that might be my imagination. Is there a defrost mechanism that senses ice build-up on the rear coils and kicks in to melt that off? It seems like there should be. I don't want to confuse anyone with the defroster in the door that knocks out condensation. The one that works off the energysaving switch. That seems to operate fine. Any suggestions?

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  • Doug
    Doug Oct 05, 2007

    First, let me say that I appreciate the quick reply. Second, after furhter checking, the model is AFD2535DEB. I'm not sure that it makes a difference, but it might in that I couldn't find a any red knob (or any moving piece at all , for that matter) anywhere on this thing. I pulled the front grill at the bottom a only found a coil unit. Nothing else. I double checked the back grill area. The only thing I found was one grill with the built-in water dispenser hoses and junction block (whatever it is truly called). Behind the other grill is the fan and condensor. The fan a condensor were both running.

    The thing that stikes me about this fridge is that there seems to be very little access to anything.

    The one thing I haven't taken apart is the metal panel in the rear of the freezer that has the frost build up. That's probably as far as I would feel comfortable in doing at my skill level. I'm wondering what's behind there? And how on earth would you ever clean the coils on this thing. I see literally no acces to to it. Apparently, it runs along the rear of the fridge case nearly the whole length of the case and I think you would have to take the case apart to get to it, right?

  • Doug
    Doug Oct 05, 2007

    Hey the Dr,
    One other thing, where would the heater be on this thing?

    Thanks,
    Doug

  • Doug
    Doug Oct 07, 2007

    To my new, bestest buddies "the DR" and "Catriver",

    After a lot of diagnosis and sweat, I've determined to take no chances and replace the Jazz board, the heater and the defrost thermostat. I've attached a picture of the inner workings behind the panel in the freezer. This picture was taken about 2 hours after I'd shut the whole thing down. Don't be fooled by the melted ice. I did the forced defrost mode test. It worked just as you both had said. The bottomline, there was no melting. With the board $70 and the defrost heater about $15 and the defrost thermostat about $8 (source: appliancehelp.com), I'd rather replace them all for about 1 bill and sleep at night than continue to fight it.

    I really love this fridge, but was to the point of throwing it out in favor of an 18th century icebox.

    I've put everything back together temporarally without the icemaker until the parts come in. I haven't ordered them yet, but plan to on Monday. I may still run an ohmmeter on the heater, I forgot to do that, but for $15 I think I'll just replace it. It looks like a fairly straightforward process.

    Let me make sure my ducks are in order here. I've labeled the parts. #1 is the heater, #2 is the thermostat. I've also labeled the thermistor #3, just out of curiousity if that is something that should get replaced, as well?

    Lastly, the biggest dilemma I had was the jazz board. Catriver, you had said in a post that the board was located in line with the defrost bi-metal that sits on the evaporator. There is nothing around the evaporator like that. If there is, I can't find it. I'm thinking now that it might be a misprint? Every schematic and blow up shows it in the refrigerator area in the housing behind the display panel, where the temperature controls for the fridge and freezer are, front and center of the ceiling of the fridge. Is that the right answer? Is it plug in or does it have to be soldered in? I'm assuming plug in...no, I'm praying it's plug in!!

    One thing I've also found out that the part number for the jazz board you gave me, #1200249 was not the number I had while researching this. I had a #12002509ZZ. After further review, the actual part number from appliancehelp was the same for both numbers, so it's a moot point. I've also dicovered that the reason for the two different numbers is probably a Amana vs. Maytag issue. From what I gather, my Amana fridge is probably actually made by Maytag? I'm not at all surprised, isn't that pretty much standard? They're all made by the same company?

    Anyway, I can't thank both of you enough. You've hopefully saved me a ton of money (of which I need to apply to my roof, any roofers out there?)and alot of conflict resolution with the Mrs. You guys are alright. I can't help you out on may things but if you have questions about military tactics, techniques and procedures, I can answer those. I'm career Army Infantry. Jack of all trades master of getting myself in "almost over my head".

    Thaks for everything. I'll let you know when I've replaced everything and the results.

    Doug

  • jerickso Dec 08, 2007

    I have the same problem but my 1999 Amana has the red knob timer. I turned the knob until it clicked and shut the freezer down. The heater did not come on so now I am manually defrosting and then will take panel off. One of the advisors said that 80% of time it is thermostat - I will check heater also. Perhaps best to order both heater and thermostat? Other parts? Recommendations for best website to order parts?

    Thanks!!

  • Kirkman Dec 14, 2007

    It appears I have the same issue with my Amana Refridgerator. How do I access the Jazz Board??

  • Doug
    Doug Dec 16, 2007

    I just wanted to give everyone an update. I replaced the Jazz board and the thermostat, just for good measure. My frid is totally awesome. You guys have been great. Thanks for help to everyone. The Jazz board was a fairly easy fix. Easy to get to. It's behind the control panel in the upper section and was totally plug-in to rreplace.

  • Bobby982 Mar 24, 2008

    I have an Amana French Door Bottom Freezer model-afd253deb. It runs constantly and the back wall of the freezer has ice on it as well as ice completely surrounding the coils that you can see through the vents at the bottom of the back wall. I removed the food from the freezer area and completely melted the ice from around the coils and off the back wall. Once having done this the refrigerator then cycled on and off until ice began building up on the back wall at which time it ran constantly again., I turned the controls at the top of the refrigerator area to dashes which is suppose to turn the unit off bit it still keeps running. The only way I can stop it is by unplugging it.

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Doug, This model has an adaptive defrost board. You can put it into a forced defrost through the control panel. Most of the time I have been finding the control board (Jazz) board to be the culprit. To enter into a forced defrost, open the right door only. Hold the light switch down. Press the refrigerator temp down key 3 times. Release the light switch. Display should show Fd. Press the refer temp down key 1 more time to confirm. Toggle between short S and long L defrost by pressing the refer temp up key. For testing, use the L. Press the refer temp down key once more and you are now in defrost. Now, if you want you can peel the freezer back panel off to see if the heater is coming on. With it in forced defrost you should hear sizzling and popping after a while. To get out of the test mode, just close both doors. The Jazz board, part 12002449, is in line with a defrost bi metal that sits on the evap. If the bi-metal is bulged, that could be the problem. Like I said earlier, I have found in most cases the Jazz board itself to be the problem. Hope this helps you understand the refer a little better...Catriver.

Posted on Oct 06, 2007

  • Ron Marek
    Ron Marek Oct 07, 2007

    Doug, good picture, sorry about the misunderstanding on the jazz board. It is in the control panel and is just a plug in, no soldering. Looks like the defrost thermostat and heater are in good shape. One thing to check is the connection where the heater plugs in on both sides. I had one where they put the wire on the wrong side of the connection at the factory. So no matter how many times the unit went into defrost, the heater connection was never made. Amana is owned by Maytag of which now are both owned by Whirlpool. That is probably why the part number was different. Number 3 is the thermistor. Good work Doug, since you ordered all the parts for the defrost system you should be good. Just remember to check that heater harness connection. Catriver.

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  • Master
  • 447 Answers

There is a defrost timer that initates defrost for 30mins every 8hours of compressor run time. I believe it is behind the front grill. It should have a red knob on it....rotate click by click till unit shuts off (you will hear louder click and fans and comp will shut off. Now its in defrost. Does heater come on???? If not than you need a test meter to diagnose further. Please rate my solution as solved and ill keep the help coming!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted on Oct 04, 2007

  • joey  shearer
    joey shearer Oct 06, 2007

    Yes your refrig has no timer its all electronic. So you will need to remove the i/maker and the back freezer panel. Do this service test to force the fridge into defost


    The forced defrost function is performed using the refrigerator display and keypad. Enter the Forced Defrost Mode by performing the following sequence of events:
    1. Hold the refrigerator door light switch closed.
    2. Press the Refrigerator Temperature Down keypad 3 times consecutively.
    Note: The 3 keystrokes must be consecutive and within 10 seconds.3. Release the refrigerator door light switch.
    4. The control will display F d to confirm entry into the Forced Defrost Mode.
    5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the Refrigerator Down key once more. The unit is off and in the Defrost Mode.
    Note: All control functions will be turned off (Compressor, Defrost, Evaporator Fan, the damper will remain in its current position). !WARNING
    6. The control will default to the short run period test as shown here: Refrig - S
    7. Press refrig down (-) one more time to confirm short defrost test
    8. The defrost will begin immediately and the display will return to a normal operating display with set point values. Freezer Refrigerator 4 4
    8. Close the Refrigerator door(s). You are in the defrost mode
    Note: Forced Defrost mode Will be exited at any time prior to step 7 by closing the Refrigerator Door(s).

    If you enter this test correctly and still no heat, then you will need an ohmmeter to diagnose further or you replace the heater and defrost thermostat. Its probably the defrost thermostat as it is about 80% in the field. Its round and it clipped to a freon tube near where the tubes come through the liner.

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How long does the S (short) and the L (Long defrost take ?

Posted on Mar 24, 2008

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I have a Viking VCBB363 - It looks just like Doug's picture.

How does one figure out what's wrong? Or do you replace the board, defrost terminator, and that copper sensor (defrost thermostat.

Posted on Dec 16, 2007

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