Question about Amana AFD2535DES French Door Refrigerator
First, I'm not sure the model. It could be AFD2535DES, AFD2535DEW or even AFB2534DEW. Bottomline, it's a black Amana French door bottom freezer unit. The issue is that about every week and a half to two weeks, the inner coils at the back of the refrigerator freeze up with ice and heavy frost. Since cold air is drawn from the freezer section to the refrigerator section, the upper refrigerator section will slowly start to warm up. It takes about three days for the refrigerator to go from about 35 degrees to 55 degrees. The freezer stays at about 10 to 15 degrees regardless. I've cleaned the lower coils, double checked the alignment of the doors, cleaned the magnets, re-checked the level. I see no easy access to the rear coil area without splitting the case. I have to go in, pull out the freezer drawer, move all the frozen stuff to the top to keep that area cool and in about eight hours, it's all defrosted. It will work fine again for about another week or two. When it freezes up, it seems to happen qucikly, like within a day and a half, but that might be my imagination. Is there a defrost mechanism that senses ice build-up on the rear coils and kicks in to melt that off? It seems like there should be. I don't want to confuse anyone with the defroster in the door that knocks out condensation. The one that works off the energysaving switch. That seems to operate fine. Any suggestions?
Doug, This model has an adaptive defrost board. You can put it into a forced defrost through the control panel. Most of the time I have been finding the control board (Jazz) board to be the culprit. To enter into a forced defrost, open the right door only. Hold the light switch down. Press the refrigerator temp down key 3 times. Release the light switch. Display should show Fd. Press the refer temp down key 1 more time to confirm. Toggle between short S and long L defrost by pressing the refer temp up key. For testing, use the L. Press the refer temp down key once more and you are now in defrost. Now, if you want you can peel the freezer back panel off to see if the heater is coming on. With it in forced defrost you should hear sizzling and popping after a while. To get out of the test mode, just close both doors. The Jazz board, part 12002449, is in line with a defrost bi metal that sits on the evap. If the bi-metal is bulged, that could be the problem. Like I said earlier, I have found in most cases the Jazz board itself to be the problem. Hope this helps you understand the refer a little better...Catriver.
Posted on Oct 06, 2007
There is a defrost timer that initates defrost for 30mins every 8hours of compressor run time. I believe it is behind the front grill. It should have a red knob on it....rotate click by click till unit shuts off (you will hear louder click and fans and comp will shut off. Now its in defrost. Does heater come on???? If not than you need a test meter to diagnose further. Please rate my solution as solved and ill keep the help coming!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted on Oct 04, 2007
How long does the S (short) and the L (Long defrost take ?
Posted on Mar 24, 2008
I have a Viking VCBB363 - It looks just like Doug's picture.
How does one figure out what's wrong? Or do you replace the board, defrost terminator, and that copper sensor (defrost thermostat.
Posted on Dec 16, 2007
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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