High Voltage I've got a crack in a circuit near one of the 3 coils on the HV board.Comes on then shuts down soon. Trying to find replacement. Sylvania 20" with DVD player Model 6620LDG

Posted by on

• Level 1:

An expert who has achieved level 1.

Corporal:

An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

Mayor:

An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 2 times.

Problem Solver:

An expert who has answered 5 questions.

• Contributor

Your best bet is eBay. The part you need is the backlight inverter but it is too expensive by itself. Try to buy a TV with a good screen and some other problem.
Bill

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

SOURCE:

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

×

my-video-file.mp4

×

Related Questions:

Whirlpool microwave keeps opening high voltage diode

If you do not have any experience in the repair of microwave ovens do not engage in their repairs because it is one of the most dangerous household appliances and the consequences can be disastrous. According to your description, low voltage circuit (220V or 110V) works well (light, turntable...). Obviously the problem is in a high voltage (HV) circuit which is made up of the magnetron, HV diode (rectifier), HV capacitor and HV fuse or protect diode. Failure is in any of these components in "HV circuit" or sometimes in interlock switch assembly or PC Board.

First, you must be sure which diode is blowed, reactifier or protect diode.

To check magnetron following this procedure:

Discconect the mains supply.
Check that the capacitor is discharged (by resistor 100 ohm / 10W or more).
Discconect the magnetron.
Measure the resistence between the disconnected terminals (should be app. 0.5 ohm).
Measure the resistance between the supply terminals (both) and earth. The resistance should be infinite.

Mar 12, 2015 | Whirlpool MT4155SPS

CS Code

Inspect foil side of HV board for burned tracks toward lower side of board. If burned, check HV capacitors (High Voltage Capacitor Test Procedure) and HV transformers (High Voltage Transformer Test) for a short. Otherwise test other components as outlined above.
Solution: Replace defective components as necessary. If applicable, repair foil trace on HV board.
Hope that helps.........

Aug 29, 2008 | Amana RC17 Microwave Oven

Toshiba 65h82 has sound but no picture, what are likely causes?

Most likely you have a high voltage failure. This TV has 3 CRTs that are driven by high voltage. If one tube fails it shuts them all down. If the HV circuit has failed it may be time for a new TV

Feb 17, 2015 | Toshiba Televison & Video

Power comes on for two seconds then goes off. Trouble code is 21. Is this worth fixing?

The X-Ray Protect circuit monitors:
* Excessive High Voltage
* Excess CRT Beam Current
* Excess HV Circuit Current

The X-Ray line is normally High. If any of the monitored sources exceeds its' specific reference, the X-Ray line is pulled Low, shutting Off the TV. If X-Ray protect shuts the TV Off, pressing the Power button will turn the TV back On ( it will shut Off again if the problem still exist).

Possible Problems: Power Supply Fault, Sweep Circuit Problem, Doubler Board Fault or a leaking CRT. You may have bad capacitors in the power supply or the sweep power supply.

Check for CRT leaking, few drops of clear light oil. If this is leaking the fix is costly and not worth fixing.
Inspect for puffy capacitors on the power supply and sweep circuit boards, if you can solder replacing capacitors is cheap, middle pricing for replacing power supply or circuit boards.

Feb 28, 2011 | Mitsubishi Televison & Video

WMH1162 not heating

Sorry to read about your problem, You have a major failure, I suggest you contact a service company. If you feel like making repairs yourself, i will give you some pointers below.

There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

• Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact.
• Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
• Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
• Open HV capacitor - see the section: A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
• Open HV diode - see the section:
• Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem.
• Open winding in HV transformer.
• Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
• Shorted HV diode -
• Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section:
• Short in certain portions of the HV wiring.

Dec 30, 2010 | Whirlpool Microwave Ovens

My oven is not heating up to higher temps. Also the door doesn't seem to close all the way like it used to unless we push on it. The temp will get into the 300 range but not broiling.

Hi,

oven door not closing::

There are a number of reasons why you may find that your oven door won't close properly, and troubleshooting oven doors is not too complicated, so you should be able to manage this in a few hours. When you are trying to decide what is the cause of your oven door not shutting properly, you should be able to identify the different problems, and also understand how to repair the door without too much difficulty. If you find a lot of problems, then you may need to provide a different solution, for example replacing the door and fittings completely.
Latch is Broken This is perhaps the most common cause of the oven door not closing properly. The latch is supposed to connect to a hole in the oven itself, but sometimes the latch can become stuck, and it may also be improperly greased. If the latch is sticking, then you should try adding a drop of oil, and trying again. Other reasons for the latch not closing properly include dirt being trapped in the hole on the other side, or the latch itself being cracked and not fitting correctly into the hole. The latch can also be completely replaced if you find that you have repeated problems with it.

No heat but otherwise normal operation If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse. Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

• Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
• Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
• Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
• Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
• Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
• Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
• Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
• Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
• Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
• Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
• Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation This means the controller thinks the oven is working but the microwave generator AND motors aren't being powered. Note that these symptoms are subtly different than just having no heat and eliminates the actual components of the microwave generator from suspicion in most cases.

Hope it helps

You can pass your comment over.

And please don't forget to rate me. Thanks..

Thanks for using fixya....

Oct 28, 2010 | Thermador SMW272 Electric Double Oven

Model 721.64282 microwave/convection oven - microwave not heating and making a loud noise. convection oven works

No heat but otherwise normal operationA shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.

Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.

A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

• Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
• Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
• Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
• Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
• Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
• Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
• Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
• Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
• Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
• Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
• Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.

Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.

If you are interested in doing it yourself the following link will help : Microwave Repair Manual

(**All the above references to tests are found here)

Oct 21, 2010 | Kenmore 63663 Microwave Oven

The tv was working and made a hiss and pop and quit, I replaced the flyback and now it just ticks

When you replace a flyback on an RCA Model, Always replace the Horizontal Output tranistor with it. These models are notorious for for bad solder connections in and around the HV area. Also check around the High Voltage Area for bad HV Scaning Capacitors. These are usually square shaped , for cracking,arching,and swelling. Replace if found to be defective. One more thing check the neck of the picture tubes for cracks or arching inside a tube when trying to turn the set on. Sometimes a bad scanning cap will go defective and drive the high voltage so high it cracks the Green CRT.

Nov 15, 2009 | RCA P52960 52" Rear Projection Television

Need Service message for Konica 7020

High voltage circuit board is bad. Have you turn the macine off then back on (wait at least 10 second in between). to reset the machine and clear the code. if that code comes back after turning on and off. then a new circuit board is need. or have a service technician come out and look at the machine

Btw, Iām available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/normanj_7893313f0751935f

Jun 18, 2009 | Konica Minolta DiALTA Di200 Copier

H.V shuts down/

try to check a bad conections in hv transformer and capacitor around them

Feb 01, 2008 | Zenith B27A11Z 27" TV

Open Questions:

Related Topics:

88 people viewed this question

Level 3 Expert

Level 3 Expert