Question about Motorsports
Having problem with key to my 2006 Volkswagen Touareg. Tried to start and got message that said key battery is low. Finally got the engine to start. slow turn over. but might not be so lucky next time. checked the manual and it said Volkswagen dealer could charge battery or replace. Called Volkswagen Dealer was told by tech that they don't do that, but would sell me another at a whopping $350 charge. Does any one else out there have any advice or information regarding this issue. Please help.
Believe it or not, Home Depot, whom I despise. A low/bad chip should not cause slow engine crank, if that is what you meant. Show crank is low amperage. Weak starting battery or electrical connections at either the battery or the engine.
Posted on May 30, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There is obviously a draw from somewhere, and if your dealer doesn't have a mechanic who knows how to narrow it down to the circuit causing the problem, then I'd question there ability. With that said, when all else fails, you simply remove negative connection off battery first, then positive. Take a 12 volt test light & secure one end to the + clamp or connector, and the other end to the battery+ post. Now connect your negative back up to the battery as it was. If that test light, lights up, there is a draw. It will be brighter, the more draw there is. Your going to have some, just from your radio memory alone, but now comes the fun part. All you do is pull the fuses one at a time, if light goes out, or dim's you've found a draw. When you have a real hard one to narrow down, you make sure you know where they all go back to, whether by your map at fuse box, or your own notes, and you pull them all out, and light should go out for sure, if not, there is another circuit or panel, or relay drawing the current. If it goes out, you start putting them back in one at a time, and when the light comes back on bright, you found the circuit. Mark that one down, pull the fuse back out, light off, now do the rest that you haven't checked yet, just to see if there is more than one draw causing the problem, if there is, mark it down, pull it out & continue on until all done. Now you/they narrowed it down or isolated the circuit causing the problem.
Posted on Dec 30, 2008
Yes it is the battery. First try charging it with trickle charger. NOT car battery charger. It should work fine once it is charged enough to start the bike. Than the bikes should keep it charged. Or you can jump it with car battery. This is safe. THe motorcyle battery is also 12 volts. Just smaller.
After the bike runs for 5-10 minutes and shut if off. Wait 5-10 minutes after it is off and try again. If it does not start again, than your battery is either dead or your stator/rectifier (your charge system) could be faulty. Lot cheaper to get battery for $30 than to pay $75 hourly shop fees for testing and than repairing.
Posted on May 20, 2009
SOURCE: 2006 subaru B9 Tribeca Error 66
Hello, I know exactly what your talking about! and why no one else did... The error code is being displayed on your trip/odo LCD screen at the bottom of your right gauge pod if I remember correctly. Only, it\'s not Er 66... it\'s (Er bb) which is a malfunction with your vacuum pump system. I truly hope this is the same concern you are asking about, if so I am happy I could help. If it is a different problem please let me know so I can look into this matter further. I\'ve added an "error chart guide" so you will have proof this time when/if you decide to return to the dealer... Good luck!! and I hope this info helps...(subytech1)...
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
There is a lot wrong with "low oil" and low oil is not normal in a low mileage healthy engine.
The dealer is fobbing you off in the hope you will go away.
If the oil is being changed at least every 5000 miles or so there should be minimum oil depletion between changes with only very minor top up needed. Some oil consumption is normal but it should be minimal.
If the oil level is dropping to a very low level in about 4000 - 5000 miles of normal motoring you have a significant problem. The oil is either leaking out or the engine is burning excessive oil or a combination. If there is no leak through faulty seals or by other means such as oil escaping into the cooling passages of the engine, then there is excessive burning.
These engines are known for excessive oil consumption because the problem is a common one in the 06, 05, 04 and previous year builds back to about 98/99. The dealers know all about this problem - as does BMW - and they will try to fob you off until the car is out of warranty because the fix is expensive.
From what you say the problem has not been fixed on your car. Document the oil loss and insist on your warranty rights because your engine is using excessive oil and this is NOT normal in a properly functioning motor with as few miles as yours has. Make it clear to the dealer that you are well aware that excessive oil consumption is a common problem in many of the 325 petrol engines and you want it fixed under warranty.
Then sell the car as these vehicles will cost you quite a bit in repairs once out of warranty and once you clock up around 60000 miles or more. If you have an auto you can expect major problems at about 65000 miles (later if you are lucky) and replacement of the transmission will be necessary. Once you notice any significant problem with the auto transmission it is on it's way out.
Posted on Dec 17, 2009
I am having the exact same problem with my VW Touareg @60,000 miles. Two weeks ago and again today it sputters and stalls shortly after starting. I brought it into the shop and they could not reproduce the problem and said it was fine. Also, they had no ideas when I describes the problem. Anyone know what it going on? I am out of warranty.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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