Aiwa HV-MX1 VHS VCR Logo
Posted on May 01, 2009
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Aiwa HV-MX100u powers down after 5 secs, even without cartridge

I have an Aiwa HV-MX100u VCR, which ran OK in the past but has not been used for about 1 year. When I tried to use it yesterday, it loaded the tape but then stopped moving the tape after about 5 seconds. I tried to eject it but the cartridge got stuck about half way out. After a few more tries I managed to get the tape out, (tape damage had occurred and the tape itself had come partially out of the cartridge). Now, whatever I do, the unit powers down about 5 seconds after power up. Even if there is no tape cartridge in the unit, it still powers down after 5 secs. If there is a cartridge in there (new one) sometimes it loads correctly, (I can see it pull the tape out of the cartridge correctly because I have the top cover off), but after 5 seconds it unloads the tape and powers down, usually leaving the tape unloaded but still inside the unit. Even if there is no cartridge in the unit, it still powers down after 5 seconds after power up.

Sounds to me like there is some protection mechanism that shuts it down if it detects a problem (mechanical, most likely). However it’s strange that it still shuts down when there is no tape cartridge involved and thus should have a “less mechanically demanding” task to do. I cannot see any mechanical damage in the unit, (top view only, for the moment). No sign of a broken belt floating around, at least from the top-only view. Anybody had a similar problem? Help somebody please!
Anybody know a good repair operation in South Orange County, CA who could fix this unit?

Thanks

Dave

  • 5 more comments 
  • davesan1 May 13, 2009

    afecu -



    Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it.



    When I first opened the VCR, (removed the top), I noticed what looked like some kinda yellow grease near the read/write rotating head. I just wiped it off, but have not looked yet to see if it is in other places as well. Anyway, based on this, your response appears to be on the right track. But, one question - it is not clear to me how to access the info. you mentioned when you wrote, "If you go over to the HV-MX100 page....": Please tell me how to get to that page, (this is the first time I have used FixYa, so I'm a newby to it).



    Thank You



    Dave

  • davesan1 May 13, 2009

    afecu -



    Thanks very much. I've now got your guide. I'll be on-to it Friday this week, and I'll certainly keep you informed. One more question, (because I'm new to this, (even though I am an engineer!)). The question is "Do your instructions assume that the bottom cover has already been removed?" or do they just assume that only the top cover has been removed? The reason I ask is that I have not yet tried to remove the bottom cover, because, on my initial brief inspection, it seems to be not so easy to remove, and I guess it may, in fact, be the base mounting plate for all the component boards, and thus may be, in effect, inherently "un-removable." Anyway, it certainly would help if I knew whether your instructions assume prior removal of the bottom cover, (although, as I said above, I suspect, but do not know, that the bottom "cover" may simply be mounting plate for everything



    Thank You



    Dave

  • davesan1 May 15, 2009

    Aron -



    Thanks again. I'll be working on it tomorrow



    Best Regards



    Dave

  • davesan1 May 16, 2009

    Aron -



    OK, I’m into the disassembly, but I'm being cautious because I don’t want to break anything! So, when trying to remove the cross piece, you say first “unhook the flat cable that comes over it from the back board.” Question: How does the cable unhook? I’ve put GENTLE pressure on it to try to pull it straight up, from the printed circuit board (perpendicular to the board). I’ve also tried (again gently) to pull it straight upwards, (assuming the unit is sitting in its normal operating position. Neither has shown any movement. Is there a clip of some sort, (Doesn’t look like it, but…)? So, before I increase the pulling, please tell me which way it comes out – a) pull straight out from the board, i.e. pull it up perpendicular to the surface of the board OR b) pull the cable parallel to the board OR c) something else.



    Thank You



    Dave

  • davesan1 May 18, 2009

    Aron -



    From your previous email that was my understanding, but thank you for the warning anyway.

    Basically then, as I understand it, the end of the cable itself forms the male "plug" that is inserted into the board-mounted female socket.



    Thanks for all your help



    Dave

  • Nighthawk2k May 11, 2010

    I'm down to the part in the guide where I have to remove the six-pin ribbon from the video assembly. I'm not sure what the instructions mean by lifting the latch first. I know there's the piece on the front of the connector that lifts up slightly, but it seems to be an actual part of the connector, not the latch. After I lift this piece, I still have a hard time lifting the ribbon. I have been using a significant amount of tug and don't feel coimfortable moving it anymore. Is the six pin connection actually attached to a plastic connector or is it metal pins only? Is there another latch that II'm missing? Thanks.

  • Gajah Duduk
    Gajah Duduk Aug 30, 2022

    I tried this (yes in 2022 for the same reasons!!) and got fairly far before pulling the wires out of one of the connectors on one of the cables that attached to the "board in question". I think maybe the same one nighhawk is talking about. That and the fact a belt was also broken kinda made me give up as not worth more trouble. a bit gratifying to throw it in the garbage!

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  • Posted on May 20, 2009
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It's an easy fix, the fact that it turns off after a while and the yellow grease found under the case is the spew from a blown capacitor, it's usualy a large one that's bulging and likely has a blow top with some yellow stuff as well. Note where the poss charge flows on the capacitor (usualy a white line arrow) then use a soldering gun and remove the old capacitor and order same one from ebay or something with same voltage and microfarads and solder that back it with same pos flow indicator in that direction. Fixed a few of these way back in the days.

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  • Posted on May 11, 2009
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Dave, your problem is most likely with the mode sensors. I had the same symptoms and it turned out that some lubricating gel had migrated onto the electrical contacts that make up part of the mode sensing system.

If you go over to the HV-MX100 page, I've posted a guide (with photos) under the Tips section showing how I fixed it.

  • 4 more comments 
  • Anonymous May 13, 2009

    Hi Dave,

    If this works, this is a link to the guide. You can get to the MX100 page by putting HV-MX100 in the search box at the top (you've got your problem posted on the HV-MX1 page, and that's a different model, not as good either).

    The lubricating gel that got on those contacts is held in a cap right next to them - I don't think it was coming in from elsewhere in the mechanism.

    Let me know how it works out.


  • Anonymous May 14, 2009

    Hi Dave,

    No, you only need to remove the top cover - everything I listed does in fact come out from the top. (I think you're right that the bottom is the mounting plate.)

    --Aron


  • Anonymous May 16, 2009

    Hi Dave,

    Good to be careful! The socket holds that cable in by pressure - there are no release clips - and it pulls straight out from the socket, parallel to the board.

    If I can remember them all offhand, the other cables are -
    - the erase head, a 2-pin connector that comes out straight up, should not take so much force
    - there's about a 10- or 15-pin connector from the front of that same board you're working on, and it pulls up with gentle force
    - the 6-wire connector on the board within the video mechanism, there's a latch on the socket, pull the latch up and that will release the wire
    - another 2-pin connector from that board, pull up but a little forward so it does not bump into a piece of metal in back and it should come out easily
    - the 2 cables on the bottom side of that board assembly are similar to the one you're working on and they also pull out parallel to the board

    When you put the cable you're working on back in, needle-nose pliers are helpful, hold it by the (blue?) plastic and push it straight in. There's a bend in the cable further on that you can unbend to give you enough slack to do this.

    If any of this isn't clear enough let me know and I'll try to clarify...

    Best,
    Aron


  • Anonymous May 17, 2009

    P.S. Dave, make sure you're pulling on the cable (not on the socket).

    P.P.S. If you're uncomfortable with this, you might want to check if any of your friends or colleagues do any electronics repair...


  • eagle10936 Nov 11, 2010

    cannot find your pictures at your page HV-MX100. please advise? thank you!

  • Anonymous Nov 11, 2010

    eagle10936, I just checked the guide and the pictures show up fine for me. They are hosted by fixya so if you see the guide but no pictures I guess you should check with them.

    P.S. This system makes it pretty hard for me to see updates as they are in several different places on the page.

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