GM3500 making squealing noise from between pump and engine when clutch reengages

Joe, do you mean a bearing track?
If so, a bearing -or track - usually makes a grinding or knocking noise, not a squealing noise.

If a car stands for a long time the brake rotors can corrode a bit and the pads can stick. Sometimes, when the car is first used after standing, you may hear a rubbing or squealing noise from the wheel. That's the pads sticking to a rusty rotor. The noise may wear off after a few miles when the pads 'polish' the corrosion off the rotor.

The other thing that causes squealing from a wheel are the brake shims. Try cleaning things first.

throw out bearing.Yes with only 41,000 miles on it it can still go out.But it sounds like its just starting.It could have sat at the dealership for 6mo- a year before anyone drove it making dry spots on the bearings.

I had a brand new Dishwasher do that, it wasn't an LG it was a Frigidaire i think, turned out to be some bits of plastic from the manufacturing process that were in the pump. I had another one that made thumping noises and turned out to be a little piece of the tape, you know all that blue or green tape they hold everything in place with when its new. Did you run it through a few cycles and see if the noise quit? Believe it or not when i called about the one that was squealing their customer service said to run a couple cycles to remove anything that might be in the pump from manufacturing, sure enough midway through the second wash cycle it just went quiet and never made another noise again after two years.

you could always try oling up the clutch and also change the oil. it could be some corrosin in the engine

The items to check are
Waste gate on the turbo Please email me the turbo model # Example: G3

EGR valve (stuck open or not moving freely) / need to remove carbon in EGR valve (if equipped in emission state / country) Clean EGR passage tube.
REMOVE ALL CARBON with WD-40 or PB Blaster

Check for vacuum leaks.
YOU MUST replace EGR base mount gasket.

Inspect timing belt tensioner.
Jumped timing / belt Check for burn / loose rubber particle on the bottom of the timing belt cover. Recheck timing marks / dots and make sure it's line up correctly.
You should change the water pump and T-belt at the same time. Check the service record for the last water pump change. Spin the water pump and check for free movement and leak.
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After everything are check out then open the valve cover to do a valve adjustment. You should do valve adjustment every year or 12-18,000 miles.

Monitor for oil leaks from rear main seal,front seal and valve cover.

Check for white smoke at the tailpipe after 10-15 minutes of warm up time to rule out head gasket damage.
check for cross mix of oil and coolant.
TDI should go well over 200,000 miles before major over-haul.

yes hydrailic and no will not affect engine. Engine problem is just more noticed when transmission not engaged.
Squealing is probably pilot bearing--not a big deal.
Tapping--maybe lifters pumping up
Engine light--get car scanned and report trouble codes back to us.
Autozone and Advance, among other parts stores, offer free scans.

Your problem may be a seized water pump with the motor turning the drive belt on a water pump pulley that is not turning (belt squealing). Or the noise could be originating from a water pump that has a noisy/bad bearing. If the pump pulley is turning and making the noise, you may be able to lubricate the pump shaft with some quality shaft lubicant (no guarantee that the noise will cease)! If other problem, contact an appliance service company.

Noise comes and goes sound like metal on metal not a belt squealing

I don't think they can be, but, also take a look at the fan bearing assembly too. You should be able to isolate if the noise is from the motor bearings or blower bearings.

I think that the difficulty in shifting is unrelated to the squeal. I had a '99 Swift that had belt squeal all the time first thing in the morning, and I did not want to tighten the belt too much as it is bad for the alternator and water pump bearings. However, I did figure out a way to make it *******. When the noise happened, I would make the DRLs turn off by pulling the handbrake up just one click, and the noise would immediately cease. If this works for you, then you have identified the problem. It seems as though the alternator loads up too much. Not a big deal though.
As for the shifting, check to see that your clutch cable is properly adjusted. It should not be too loose or too tight, it should be set so that there is about a 1/4 inch of play at the clutch pedal.
Good luck with your Swift, they're great little cars!