Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart E522B Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Beeping constantly in middle of night

I'm not exactly sure of my F&P model but it's one of those bottom frizer ones (around 3 years old). Recently it started to beep in middle of the night for no apparent reasons. I found out that if I press the temperature button inside the fridge it shuts it off. But the next night it does the same thing. What should I do?

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  • Anonymous Nov 13, 2007

    We too have the problem of the fridge-freezer beeping loudly in middle of the night, and sometimes several times during the day. We're totally fed up with it. Ours is also 3-years old. The beeping seems to be emanating from rear of the fridge part which is on top. There's no visible fault with the fridge. So much for modern appliances! We never had these problems with the older F & P models.

  • TiredTassie Nov 18, 2007

    Ours too. Same thing, fridge is 3 years old and about four nights ago it started beeping. I thought maybe the freezer wasn't sealing properly as the control panel flashes on that compartment. The freezer seal was slightly squashed on the hinge side of the door so I pulled the freezer seal off and turned it 180 degrees, so far no change it still flashes and beeps after a while.
    Can anyone help with the fridge problem?

  • insomnia Nov 19, 2007

    I finally called F&P to get it fixed. It turned out there was a broken wire connecting to one of the fans (there are 2). The beeping was an indication of something went wrong. It costed me $220 with $99 labour and $60 per fan. The technician suggested having both of them replaced.



    If we all had the same problem with the fridges around the same age, maybe it was a faulty batch.

  • Castiron Dec 10, 2007

    And another one. Only just started doing it. The fridge is about 3 years old also. Will look at the section that is flashing, and try moving the seal.

  • Zaichik Dec 26, 2007

    We had ours fixed by F&P too, but it cost less because they only replaced one fan. It definitely sounds like a faulty batch....

  • DjSpeed Jan 08, 2008

    i too have had the beeping occur, my f&P fridge. And funny enough it too is just over 3 years old.
    We just moved house, and thats when the beeping started.

    So im thinking (after checking the seals and user manuals and everything) that it may be the fan and wires as described above.

    Now
    the hard part. Finding a service technician that wont charge an arm and
    a leg for a product that seems to perhaps have a general defect.

  • TiredTassie Jan 25, 2008

    Hi,
    We put up with our fridge beeping since before Christmas. Couldn't take it anymore, so called the electrician. One of the fans had a broken wire, so he replaced both with new improved models. Also, the element was touching the plastic part of the freezer in one corner and was causing ice to build up. He used aluminum wire to pull the element up and fix it into place. Total cost $220 and worth every cent for a good nights sleep. :)

  • frigid Feb 10, 2008

    yeah, pretty annoying. same fridge, same beeping....

    turned it on-off few times, will have to get a service person to look at it i guess...

  • Anonymous Aug 13, 2008

    we have the same fridge same problem, have had the seals replaced and to no avail. have used the shabbat mode for a while now. has any succeeded in getting Fisher and Paykel to fix at a good price, due to obvious common fault in all these fridges?

  • amygail Nov 24, 2008

    Yep annoying same fridge same beeping, sure the seals are ok still!



    Had the water coming out of the back they came and replaced something under warranty and then 2 years later this.



    6 years old, should last longer than that, my parents just had to buy a new fridge after 11 years!

  • Anonymous Dec 12, 2008

    On and off beeping continuously. Fridge sectioin warm,freezer fine.
    Active Smart but green light setting flashing. House sitting so no idea what to do. Please can anyone help??????

  • Missfixup Jan 02, 2009

    Yes Same problem here too.  Beeping in the middle of the night.  Fridge 3 years old.  Temperature button shuts it off.  Fridge not cooling and frost around the side of vent in the freezer.   Melbourne, Australia

  • Anonymous Jan 03, 2009

    Hi we have the same F & P Fridge. It just started beeping and we noticed it wasnt cooling like it should, cause the milk was going off so quickly. We rang around Frdige mechanics and a couple said dont bother its F & P. So we called F & P and we are waiting for them to come out and fix it.....



  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2009

    Same problem and only a 3 yr old fridge. My parents had a whirlpool without any problems and it is more than 15yrs old. Not getting F&P again.

  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2009

    Same again, F&P bottom freezer, 3 yrs old. Fridge beeps twice every time I open the door, but only the fridge door not freezer.

  • Pete
    Pete Dec 03, 2016

    The ActiveSmart system which controls the operation of the fridge will beep to indicate a component failure, so the amount of beeps will indicate the fault code.

    Over the years there have been revisions of the ActiveSmart software, so some of the codes could indicate different errors based on the fridge model and software version.

    Fault codes: as a brief overview, which does not relate to all versions, code 02 could be defrost heater or power failure from PCB to fan; code 17 relates to freezer fan; code 03 relates to temp sensors. There are many more.

    Defrost sensors (black) and temp sensors (white) have a different resistance - and when they fail, many problems can arise from this as the ActiveSmart system can stop components from working as a fail safe as it does not receive the data from the sensor to indicate temp.

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My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) also had a broken fan wire. I pulled off the panel and re-soldered the wire. I also created a document for others to follow if interested at http://www.accentis.com.au/downloads/misc/How I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf
Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

  • Ramsey Skelly Mar 29, 2011

    I pulled the back off like you said and wouldn't you believe it, one of the wires was broken. I cleaned the wired away twisted it together, soldered them together and taped it up. I put the back panel back on all connected and switched it back on.....You beauty, problem solved. It's people like you who make people like me, save a lot of money. F+P charge way too much money for what was needed. Big thanks!

  • Andrew Robertson
    Andrew Robertson Feb 02, 2017

    Hi. The link for the Tony's document is dead. Does anyone have a copy to share?
    I have the same symptoms described by others

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I have a solution - albeit a temporary one for anyone else that strikes this problem...

Although not mentioned in the Australian version of the instruction manual, the fridge has a 'sabbath mode' for the jewish faith. During sabbath, the use of electrical appliances (phones, elevators etc is not allowed). If you put the fridge into sabbath mode, the internal light will not go on when you open the door (nor will the control panel lights), but also, the beeping will stop as all alarms will be deactivated.

To activate the sabbath mode, press and hold down the main button on the rear wall of the fridge compartment for about 10-15 seconds. The light will go out. The fridge will stay in sabbath mode for 80 hours (as the sabbath is 72 hours as far as I know), long enough to get some sleep...!

If you haven't fixed the fridge in this time, you can put it back into sabbath mode again. To go without the light for a short length of time is a small price to pay in return for getting some sleep. If you want to take it out of sabbath mode, press and hold the same button for the same length of time.

Posted on Dec 22, 2007

  • Castiron Jan 24, 2008

    Not too sure why my solution to at least silence the alarm for a period of time was inappropriate, but nonetheless...



    I had the fridge fixed by a technician who arrived within a couple of hours of making the service call. With my fridge, the problem was the element in the freezer section. Apparently it carked it, and was now frozen over blocking the distribution of cold air into the fridge section. Total cost to fix: $170.

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Funny thing. My Fisher and Paykel has had the same problem twice.

It is now 7.5 years old. After 6 years, it started beeping and the control panel was acting very strangely .. red lights, flashing green lights, all the lights looked wierd. Sometimes you'd open the door and the light wouldn't come on. Sometimes the fridge temperature wasn't cold enough. Anyway, the way I fixed it was as follows:

I basically kept turning the fridge off, unplugging it at the wall and waiting a few hours before turning it back on, and this solved the problem. When you turn the power back on, you hear the standard reset tone coming from the controller. The fridge went back to normal... for another 16 months or so.

This week, it started beeping again, but much more frequently. For 3 days, I'd been turning it off and on again, but it just keep beeping insanely within an hour or two. I tried following the instructions in Solution #4 in case my fan wasn't working. I turned the fridge off for 6 hours, emptied the freezer, took the back panel off but the wires to the fan looked fine. When I turned the power on, the fan worked perfectly.

Whilst I had the freezer open and the back panel removed, I ripped off large bits of loose ice behind the back panel and wiped down my freezer before putting the back panel on and the middle shelf in.

I powered the fridge up and its been working perfectly again. I think I just needed to defrost the freezer and give the fridge a good rest.

Posted on Nov 03, 2009

  • jonobuch Feb 24, 2011

    Ok, about one year ago, the beeping got worse, the fridge just shut down completely, so I called F

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After our E522B started the flashing red light and beeping thing described by others, our first step was to ring F&P, who wanted $120 or so for someone to come out and scratch his head, plus more to actually fix it.

Second step was to look here, and study the excellent PDF from Tony. Pulled it apart, and found that the fan had struck the ice buildup and shattered a blade. Calls to F&P and various others turned up prices between $80 and $120 for the complete back panel. They refused to supply the fan only.

The fan is a Sunon KD1209, but with a BTB1 rather than the PTB1 suffix on the otherwise identical $8 block fan. Burwood Appliances did have these fans available, but were demanding $60. Outrageous given the dearest block fan is less than half that price.

I dug up an old fan that was lying around, cut the wires close to the old fan and spliced the two leads together, which gave me a double-length lead. Then I looked at ways to mount the block fan on the back panel. Not wanting a rigid mount, I though Silastic was the answer. A test fit reveals that the curves in the two halves of the panel mean the block fan would best fit at an angle.

I've now sat the fan temporarily in the hole, without any mounting at all, and reassembled everything, and all appears to be working perfectly. I may or may not go ahead with gluing it in in a day or so, when I try and remove the huge slab of ice in the back of the freezer.

I took a few photos:
http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/FridgeFan/DSC03484.JPG shows the broken and new fans sitting on the back panel.
http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/FridgeFan/DSC03485.JPG shows the block fan sitting flush is quite a bit taller than the old fan.
http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/FridgeFan/DSC03486.JPG shows the fan slid into the hole at an angle and the back panel reassembled.
http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/FridgeFan/DSC03487.JPG shows the fan from the back of the panel.

I was a bit disconcerted to find the fan is actually blowing air INTO the freezer compartment, but I did find posts indicating this is correct, and there is another fan which pulls air into the fridge section. I don't know where this fan actually is, whether it also will fail, and how hard it is to replace if it does.

Posted on Dec 18, 2009

  • fg99 Dec 20, 2009

    Followup:

    After a couple of days of running down food stocks and testing the new fan, the time came to defrost the freezer with a hairdryer and finish up the job.

    A couple of warnings:
    There is a LOT of ice. The reservoir on top of the motor is not large enough to take it all, so a few breaks to empty it are required. There is no real access, so all you can do is use a sponge to transfer the water to a handy bucket. I wound up with over 5 litres of meltwater.

    Be sure to plug the air ducts above the ice with a couple of rags, or you will be blowing hot air into the fridge. With the power off and the ducts plugged, the temperature only tose to 8°C by the end of the job. Don’t forget to remove the plugs.

    Try to resist the urge to pull at loose blocks of ice. Let the hot air do the work or you will probably break something. Start in the middle, where the ice is unsupported, and work your way towards the corners where the plumbing is. This will minimise the risk of falling chunks of ice doing any damage.

    Photos:
    http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/Frid... Water Collection Tray
    http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/Frid... Using a sponge to remove water
    http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/Frid... Block the air vents
    http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/Frid... Using fairdryer on ice
    http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/Frid... Ice shards
    http://fulvio.jovianprojects.com.au/Frid... Defrost completed

    After all the ice was gone, and the fan was checked to be working (the extra long lead allows it to be hung outside the door for this), I reassembled the back panel and sat the fan in it before pushing the panel back into place. I decided NOT to fix the fan in place, as it works quite happily loose, and any glue or other fixing would be more of a hinderance than a help.

    Thinking about the design “features” of this fridge, I would say that the ice buildup is its major problem. Depending on humidity and how often the fridge door is opened, it would take a few months or perhaps years to build up again. Every time the door is opened, another load of moist air is brought in which will condense at the back of the freezer. I plan on keeping a close eye on it, and doing this job again on a regular basis in future.

  • Grant64 Feb 24, 2011

    Have had fan replaced twice in 5 years,Now if we hear the beast making a cracking or clunking noice,we defrost over night just in case the fan is about to frost over and die,A service and new fan cost around $260,thanks for those photos,Will do the job myself next time ,ps Have a 19 year old Kelvinator down stairs as a beer fridge that has never missed a beat,Good back up

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This continuous beeping problem has just struck my 4-year old F&P fridge (inox range, with freezer at bottom). Problem commenced immediately following a power failure. The beeping commences in the middle of the night, then 6 hours later, then 6 hours after that. Fridge is messing up the quality of sleep of whole house - it's just fantastic (not).

Posted on Jan 23, 2008

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Further to Tony's solution there is a second fan in the fridge section than can shake a wire loose . . .

Posted on Jul 08, 2010

  • Kathi Louis
    Kathi Louis Feb 24, 2014

    Where and how do you get to it???

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I too have had the beeping occur, my f&P fridge. And funny enough it too is just over 3 years old.
We just moved house, and thats when the beeping started.

So im thinking (after checking the seals and user manuals and everything) that it may be the fan and wires as described above.

Now the hard part. Finding a service technician that wont charge an arm and a leg for a product that seems to perhaps have a general defect.

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

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Insomnia, i might have a solution for you.
Look at the temperature monitor in the back wall of your fridge, if it is the freezer compartment that is flashing it may be a bad seal.
The problem with mine was the seal on the hinge side was folding over, creating a small gap when closed.
I carefully pealed off the freezer door seal and rotated it 180 degrees and put it back on.
It has been a full day, the flashing has stopped and so has the beeping.

Posted on Nov 19, 2007

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After getting ours fixed last year, it started up with the beeping again about 11 months later - evidently the fridge is fatally flawed and even the F&P technicians can't do a proper fix. We have now solved the problem permanently - ditch the F&P rubbish and buy a Mitsubishi. I'm never going to buy Fisher and Paykel again - buy New Zealand for New Zealand is all very well, but not if the quality is worse than that of foreign-made products. Better brush up your quality, Kiwis!

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

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Along with solution number 4 mine is now beeping twice everytime I open either door. Fisher paykal said have someone come out and look at it. We bought it from Bray And Scaarf here near washington DC. My prediction is that it will between two and 3 visits for them to fix it.  They have been unable to replace a tiny white cap that holds the butter dish cover in place after 3 visits already. I finally called FP in new zealand and they are sending me the part since I have had to take 3 days off of work already to replace a 10 cent part! - 

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

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I followed tony 439 advice and now my fridge is working great. Thanks mate

Wayne

Posted on May 27, 2010

My Fridge beeps just twice everytime I open the fridge door (not the freezer). If I switch the power off and on again it stops but starts up agin in a couple of days. Anyone know what the beeps mean?
Paul

Posted on Oct 24, 2008

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I have a E406b model and seem to be having a unique problem with mine.

I get a constant beeping.. itl just beep for hours non stop.

sometime it occurs randomly, sometimes it occurs if i open and close the doors quickly (eg open the top door 4 times within a few seconds)

My fridge compartment light (on the control panel) flashes, and when i press mode to selext the freezer that light flashes too.

however I dont get any flashing temperature lights when the beeping is occuring, and I dont see any red lights (have put it into service mode so can confirm the light does work.


Ive woken up a few mornings to find the fridge warm and the beeping going - i presume the beeping kicked off in the middle of the night.

however if i press any of the internal buttons while its beeping the beeping will stop, and seems to run fine


In thinking it might be a compressor overheat, or a relay overheating ?

does anyone have that Tony document? the link is dead

Posted on Dec 27, 2016

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They have been unable to replace a tiny white cap that holds the butter dish cover in place after 3 visits already. I finally called FP in new zealand and they are sending me the part since I have had to take 3 days off of work already to replace a 10 cent part!
192 168 1 1 192 168 1 1 admin password log in http://www.routermobile.com/ 192 168 192 168 1 1 Login Admin Password http://www.19216811254.com/

Posted on Nov 29, 2016

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My Fisher and Paykel E402B has been happily functioning without incident for over 11 years. Until now.

I defrosted it in the latest move as the freezer ice had started to push the back panel forward, so much so the drawers were starting to bump it. I had the panel (rear of inside freezer) off and got all the ice out.

Once plugged back in the thing ran ok for about 20 hours, then screamed like a smoke alarm until my wife opened the door and pressed one of the buttons.
Alarm code is the "top" light that indicates fridge section (Mine is a freezer at the bottom model) is constantly flashing, and no lights on the temp gauge.
Freezer functioning just fine at suggested -18 degrees, but fridge warming to nearly 10 degrees.

So I get googling, find my way here and have investigated both fans. One in rear of freezer and the other in section between fridge and freezer.
Both are functioning. Checked this by holding the magnet to door sensor and visually confirmed fans function.

Another useful tip, I tried the Sabbath mode idea, knowing my model did not advertise it (approx a 2003 model) using suggestion above I held all three buttons down for 5 to 10 seconds. Sent the fridge into an absolute fit, with the temp gauge turned a red light at the bottom and kept cycling thru green lights like some sort of factory reset. I let this continue for several minutes before deciding the thing was well confused and not going to recover.
Off at the power point, count to ten, back on and alarm returns.

Has anyone found the Alarm code for these things?

As keen as I am to replace fans myself I fear this is something more.

I have run a test over night and the fridge fluctuates between -10 and 10 degrees. So cool air gets in there, thermostat not controlling it very well.

Meanwhile freezer maintains -18 degrees

Posted on Feb 04, 2015

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I have just had a similar problem with my 9 year old F&P E522B. It started beeping continuously in the middle of the night, and when I went to look, I saw on the control panel where Active Smart is written that a red light and a green light were flashing alternately.The green lights normally show you what coldness setting you have set for the fridge and freezer compartments. It turns out that they double as lights that show you an error code when there is a problem.

I called in the F&P serviceman. He said the red light just means there is a fault, and that the green lights come on to form a binary number, with the bottom green light being a 1, the next one up a 2, the next 4, the next 8. In my case only the 2 position had a green light flashing, indicating a fault code 2. This indicates a failed defrost heater element, he said. In fact he had brought one in from his van as soon as he arrived, so confident was he of the diagnosis.

He took off the back panel in the freezer compartment, after first removing the side panels to which the bin slides attach. He exposed the evaporator and melted all the ice off it with a steam gun, after first asking us for an old towel to put below the appliance. Then he replaced the element, and to stop the error code showing he forced the fridge into a defrost cycle, as it won't cancel the error code until it has successfully completed the cycle. He reassembled and charged us the fixed callout fee of $135 plus the $58 cost of the new element. He left behind the old element plus the installation instruction sheet from the new. Having examined the sheet, and seen what he did, I am pretty sure I would not want to have tackled this myself, even if I had known how to interpret the error code.

The product code for our particular E522B is 21510-C Apparently this product code, rather than the model number, is the correct thing to quote if you are ordering parts.

I consider this was a good experience with F&P service. I only reported the problem early this morning, and by 3pm he had come and fixed it. He was originally booked in for tomorrow afternoon, but F&P said if he could find the time he would try to get it done today, and sure enough, not long after noon they rang us to say he would be there in an hour. The guy himself was cheerful and communicative, and said he would far rather be fixing it today than tomorrow! Great attitude.

He said this element is the most common part to fail in this type of fridge, in his experience.

I've attached a scan of the defrost kit instructions, in case it helps anyone.

Doncaster East, near Melbourne, Australia beeping constantly in middle of night - beeping-constantly-in-middle-night-xt5n32imi1xj455se44j0zsn-3-1.jpg

Posted on Jan 05, 2015

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  • Taleen Elcoate Jun 07, 2015

    Any chance you could make these pictures pdf? The are unreadable

  • Irene
    Irene Oct 15, 2015

    I can't read clearly. Can I get clearly one?

  • Carsten Uth
    Carsten Uth Sep 15, 2016

    Very good post. Did you see how the Fisher and Paykel guy removed the side panels in the freezer? I have a similar problem and I can't get the side panels off and I have spent at least an hour googling and tried everything I can think of (prying them off, pushing a tab and pulling them off, removing the brackets that the runners attach to (impossible) in the hope that there would be a screw behind them but to no avail.

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Same story. 10 year old F&P. Beeping with a flashing freezer light.
Removed the panel at the back of the freezer. Broken red wire. Resoldered and covered the joint with heat shrink tubing. Back in business. Many thanks to tony439 above whose PDF guide is still downloadable. Gotta love the inter webs!

Posted on May 23, 2014

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Had the night bleeping problem with a 10 year old F&P, followed Tony's PDF and had it fixed in 15 minutes, no cost . Thanks Tony, you are a legend!

Posted on Aug 11, 2013

  • Rich-eg Aug 11, 2013

    And thanks fixya, of course

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My f + p fridge beeps all night. fan has been replaced, so its not that . Any ideas?

Posted on Feb 02, 2010

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Same problem so followed the instructions about de-frosting with no success. Temperature control got worse, food in fridge going off, frozen food thawing so eventually called F&P who are $121 call out + parts no extra charge for labour not call-out plus labour as originally quoted. He came within the specified time, replaced the heating element for the freeze/thaw cycle. cost $180, fridge now very quite and working- all happy!

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

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Good Luck
Steve

Jun 02, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FXD - FXDI Dyna Super...

1 Answer

I have a maytag upright freezer. It is on the coldest setting. A bowl of water on the bottom shelf freezes overnight. The middle one is freezing, but not entirely. The top one is still water, but cold....


check to make sure door seals are touching the frame all round, could be an air leak,also make sure there is no ice build up around the inside casing. if so fully defrost unit,clean all vents/drain pipe, then turn back on and leave it for 24hrs (freezers work beast when full).....and door shut..how many times have you closed door after them????

Mar 01, 2010 | Maytag 15 cu. ft. / 425 liter Upright...

5 Answers

British gas carbon monoxide detector problem


If it is beeping 3 beeps every minute it is at the end of its battery life you can just replace the batteries by prising the cover off carefully.be aware though that the life span guarantee of these is only 5 years.

Dec 13, 2009 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

I work for a hotel and we have about 6 2 way


Here are some things to check:
1) Clean your battery contacts with a pencil eraser. (Both on the radio and charger)
2) Check the date code of the "new" batteries and see if they are less than 2 years old. (3-digit number usually with the first number being the year, the next two the week of the year. ex: 927 would be 2009 the 27th week)
3) The radios must be turned off when on the charger.
4) If using drop-in chargers try charging the battery alone in the charger.
5) Are all the chargers lights blinking? This can be a sign of a bad charger, shorted battery or wrong battery. You mentioned recently replacing them, are they the same chemistry as the previous batteries?

You did not mention the type of radio, so we cannot be more specific in our troubleshooting, but this should get you started. The beeping you are experiencing is most-likely the low battery beep. Your batteries are not getting charged. The above questions should help you narrow down the problem. If you need more assistance post another question and we'll try to help further.

Jul 28, 2009 | Motorola Radio Communications

1 Answer

Sony Grand Wega kdf-42we655


if the model number you provided is correct, you need to look at this ASAP:
http://ciscdb.sel.sony.com/perl/news-item.pl?news_id=206&mdl=KDF50WE655

Copy and paste that link into your browser. Sony is covering the repairs for this problem, but only until the end of December, so you must hurry. Be sure to rate this solution, Thanks!

Nov 30, 2008 | Sony KDF-E42A10 42 in. LCD Television

1 Answer

Sticky middle button


This is a problem that can occur on this model after a couple of years. You can try a small amount of non petroleum based lubricant as a short term solution but the problem most likely lies within the small tactile switch that the button is actually depressing. The internal spring in the switch becomes fatigued over time and is a non replacable part. The headpeice should be available for purchase as a seperate item from your local headset specialist (we sell them here in Australia). It is a simple matter of registering the new headpiece to the base.

Sep 19, 2008 | GN Netcom GN 9120 Professional Headset

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