OK.....my ac has quit cooling--my husband changed out some sort of switch with "points" on it --at first the fan outside was not running and after he changed the switch out it proceeded to work correctly. The switch looked as if it had burned a little bit--part of it crumbled apart. Two days later it has quit again --it is blowing warmish air out and the fan outside in the unit is working but it is blowing cool air instead of warm. Is there any way my husband can fix this himself and can how he fix it and what is wrong with it???
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Re: what's wrong with it?
There are lots of things that could be wrong since he just changed the contactor a wire may have burned...Very common..Make sure all wires feel snug onto terminals. The compressor run capacitor may also be bad it looks like a batter with 2 or 3 terminals if it looks bulged on the top where the wires are than its bad ...if it looks flat you would have to have a meter that checks capacitors to test it. Those are all the easy items to correct..Call for service if all cks ok
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A lot of people have only one or two rooms that can take an air conditioner in the window. Often times, the air conditioner is also rated at a cooling power that would make you believe that there is no way that it can to cool the whole house/apartment. You can crank it to the max to try to cool as much as possible, but then this makes one room too cold and the others still stay too hot. You can try blasting the cool air down a hallway with a fan on maximum speed, but that only works so well. And, it's noisy, too. Well, I have two 260 sqr ft rated room air conditioners and I am cooling 2000 sqr feet of house to a comfortable 72 degrees in all rooms and it's been 95 outside all day. How to do it?
The trick is setting up your home to take advantage of laminar air flow. Set your air conditioner to say 68 degrees and start it in the middle of the morning before it feels hot outside. Put the AC deflectors pointing downward and towards the door. Put fans in the doorways pointing out of the rooms that have the AC. Point them level to the floor (not up) and put a fan to one side near the end of long hallways. Set the fans on the lowest power setting (not high). If the hallway branches out into a bigger room, put a fan in the room that is blowing across at a right angle to the entry, pointing the air flow parallel to the wall. This will circulate the cool air around the room. Keep the fans on low and pointed parallel to the floor, not up!
What you have created is a re-circulating air flow system, much like the North Atlantic Current that moderates the temperatures of Europe. You can check this by taking a tissue paper and holding it up to the top of the doorway. The air flow should be pushing the tissue away from the room without the AC and toward the room with the AC. This happens because the warmest air will be toward the ceiling and you want that warm air to make its way across the ceilings and back to the room with the AC, so that it can be cooled again. The cooled air from the AC will sink to the floor and the fans will gently push the air out of the room with the AC. It will stay low and travel along the floor in the opposite direction and into the warmer rooms. If you crank your fans up, you will create turbulent flow and that will not cool your house as efficiently as will laminar flow. Monitor the outside temperature and when it gets cooler outside by a few degrees, turn the AC to fan for about 10 minutes to eek out the last of the cooling. Then open the windows for the night to take advantage of the free cooling that nature provides. That's it! Enjoy the summer!
How do you know head pressure is high? Do you have an auxiliary electric cooling fan that is not coming on in this situation? It should be in front of the AC condensing coil. There may be a switch tied to the system that is bad. This switch is sometimes activated by the pressure in the high-pressure line to the condenser coil. If there is not enough freon (134a) the pressure will not be high enough to activate the cooling fan switch. I recently added one can to my system and it made the fan run whereas it did not before adding the freon.
worked on one of these last week as well done the door locks and gearchange.Cant remember but look around the rad area for a reostat pack ,also check the earth on the fans and for a feed as that will give you a clue what could be wrong ,but the fan should come on with the AC so something is amiss .My favourite is to run a feed from the battery and then try pushing it behind the positive ,and then do the same with the earth,Cant live without the AC here in alicante spain ,its still about 28 outside now and its 22.11 ,try it out then get back to me if you cant sort it because i have to go now to pick er indoors up from work
there are few problem with the A/C cooling system better check for A/C unit fuse weather it is blown or in good condition, check for the proper working of A/C condencer unit fan motor assembly for proper working, check for weather their is no lick of gas any where in the entire A/C unit complete system or more problem better consult or take the vehicle to nearest Hyundai authorised workshop or better take it to a well knon or experiencied person who had done this sort of problematic work.
The fan and the compressor both run off of the same circuit. Have your husband remove the cover on the condenser coils and check for power at the leads that go to the compressor off of the latching relay. If there is power there, then he needs to check the start capacitor or possibly the thermal overload switch (mounted on side of compressor)
YOUR OUTDOOR FAN MOTOR SHOULD NEVER SHUT OFF IN THE AC MODE. IT IS SUPPOSED TO SHUT OFF IN THE HEAT MODE WHEN ITS IN DEFROST. IF THE UNIT IS RUNNING IN COOL AND THE OUTSIDE MOTOR QUITS ,THE COMPRESSOR WILL QUIT SOON AFTER. EITHER THE RUN CAPACITOR FOR THE FAN IS BAD OR THE FAN MOTOR ITSELF IS BAD, IF CAP IS GOOD THEN THE MOTOR IS At FAULT. THE OUTDOOR PRESSURE SWITCH CAN ALSO OPEN IF THE INDOOR FAN MOTOR FAILS IN HEAT OR THE FILTER IS PLUM NASTY in heat OR THE INDOOR COIL IS PLUGGED UP in heat.. THE PRESSURE SWITCH USUALLY TRIPS AT 400 TO 425 SO ITS WORKING CORRECTLY. YOU MAY BE CONFUSING THE ISSUE SAYING THAT THE AIR IS HOT AND COLD INSIDE. IT IS COLD WHEN AC IS RUNNING HOT WHEN HEAT PUMP IS RUNNING IN HEAT BUT ESSENTIALLY not cold or hot if compressor isn't running, but a lot of folks describe the lack of cold air as hot when the compressor isnt running. but it basically is warm or house air temp.you test the capacitor with a capacitor tester or take it to motor shop and let them test it. odds are its a 5 , 7.5 or a 10. it should test within 10 % of rated value . ask for a RESCUE brand replacement motor. they are great ,reversable etc.carefully oil and sand the motor shaft and note exactly where the blade was located in relation to the grill so you get it back just the same. usually they wire up black to a leg of 220 power. white to the other leg of 220 power. brown and brown with white stripe to the capacitor.you can also pull whole fan shroud assembly on some units and take whole thing to motor shop and let them test motor cap, replace and all you do is return to unit and connect two power leads,