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Product Status: Active/In Stock. Units Available: 2,000+ Electronic Program Start Ballast (for Preheat Start Lamps), 800mA nominal lamp current with an Arc voltage between 23V-118V, Input voltage of 100-277Vac, for 2/1 18W-36W Lamps or for 1 51W-95W Lamp, 50-60Hz, dual entry connectors (no leads)
US$36.95 · In stock
I don't see a way to attach a file. Reply or send me your email address. I will send you the entire dis-assembly procedure.
3.1.3.18 REMOVING THE LAMP BALLAST BLOCK (Fig.6)
• Remove the LAMP COVER.
• Remove the BODY COVER.
• Remove the BODY BRACKET.
• Remove the MAIN UNIT.
(1) Remove the 2 screws [H].
(2) Remove the LAMP BALLAST DUCT.
(3) Remove the 2 screws [I].
(4) Remove the LAMP BALLAST UNIT.
(5) Remove the 1 screw [J].
(6) Remove the LAMP BALLAST BRACKET.
Google that model number with ballast or lamp ballast to locate the part and its number. Usually the color wheel will not operate if ballast is not working---Lamp comes on and stays on the Ballast is good.
Hello
There are two possibilities for this fault with Sony Projection tVs. The first is with the lamp itself. The second one is with the lamp ballast baord. Replace the lamp ballast board first. Because, it there is any internal winding short in the inverter transformar of the ballast board this type of fault can occur. you have to replace the ballast baord along with the new lamp anyway. Therefore, replace the ballast board first. If this help you, there is no need ot replace the lamp. Picture of the ballast included here for you to compare.
If replacing the ballast dis not help you, change the lamp too. OK.
Every projector lamp is equipped with ballast. The problem area is ballast. Either the ballast is not getting DC supply or the lamp turn ON signal from the projector main board or the ballast is faulty. Remove the lamp. Connect the projector to the mains supply. Check the voltage at the lamp connector inside the projector without turning it ON. It should be around 65 volts A/C. (Warning: Multimeter will get damaged if the projector power is turned ON due to generation of high voltage) If you find this 65 volts then it confirms that it has DC supply & the ballast is functioning. The ballast receives the the turn ON signal from microcontroller through opto-coupler on the ballast. The ballast opto-coupler can be checked by providing external 5V DC supply between pin 3 (+ve) & 4 (-ve) in turn switches ON the lamp. If this works then there is no problem with your lamp & ballast. The problem lies with the main board. If this does not solve your problem then give me the feedback.
The first thiing I suggest is checking the installation instructions (either included with the ballast or on-line) of the ballast you just purchased. Many fluorescent ballasts require that the lamps be wired in series - which I believe is what you had before. One lamp connects between the red & the yellow, the other connects between the yellow & the blue. Other fluorescent ballasts require that the lamps be wired in parallel - which may be what you have now (both lamps connect between the red & the blue). The installation instruction sheets should designate the appropriate wiring configuration.
That being said, just double-check one thing: Make sure the new ballast is rated for 2-lamps. Ballasts rated for 1-lamp will only include the red & the blue (no yellow). So I know you sad you already checked with the destributor, but double-check that one point.
Ballast Board Powers Lamp, the 2 plugs on Lamp connect into Ballast
board just follow the wires from where lamp plugs into.
Does Ballast have a ark coming from a componet on board and does the main capacitor Look Vented or puffed up on top?
Remove Lamp turn TV on see if Ballast has a ark coming from a Big Whit/blue writing on it spark cap?
That is most probably the lamp. In some case the lamp is fine and the problem is the lamp high voltage board (ballast board).
The most coomon is always the lamp. The lamp cannot be tested . The ballast board must be tested by a technician.
The normal operation in this case is replaceing the lamp that cannot be tested. then, if you are within that 2% of the cases with ballast problem you replace the lamp power board or call a technician.
The ballast is on the other side of the lamp compartment. the lamp plugs into the two short leads that are attached to the ballast. Its a small circuit board.
Ballast Verification Process
1. Short out door switch (SP001)
2. Apply AC power and wait till DM module boots
3. Press power switch and observe spark gap on ballast
4. If spark gap arcs, suspect Lamp. If color wheel starts but ballast won’t strike
lamp, go to next step.
5. Measure BP252 on AC IN CBA for +300Vdc. If missing check door switch, cable
from AC IN CBA to switch and AC IN PCB. If correct go to next step.
6. Monitor pin 2 of BT251 for Ballast ON command from Light Engine. If present
suspect Ballast. If missing suspect Light Engine. Pin 5 of BT251 starts at 3.3V
after power switch is pressed and drops to .18V when the Light Engine sends the
start command. No change on pin 5 indicates Light Engine is suspect, change
on pin 5 with no ballast start, ballast is suspect.
Note: Lamp may arc but not start. Pin 5 of BT251 is "LAMP LIT" and goes to 1.48V
when lamp is lit. If ballast strikes lamp but lamp won’t stay lit, suspect Lamp.
If replacing the ballast dis not help you, change the lamp too. OK.
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