4 gauge is more commonly used for amplifiers used for sub woofers. its a little more pricey then the 8 gauge you get in most amp power kits, and you'll probably need to get it from an audio store as its not quite the same as from HD or lowes, but i've noticed it makes a big difference..
What kind of deck to you have? Sometimes there's a setting for the subwoofer output that has to be turned on. How is the deck hooked up to the amp? Be sure of the normal things:
-Make sure the sub is connected in side it's box
-Make sure the RCA cables didn't come off the deck
-Check every connection!
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Your Sony Xplod amplifier turns on briefly (green light) then possibly senses a mismatch between the nominal output impedance of the amplifier and impedance of your Orion sub and goes into protect mode (red light) to prevent internal damage.
You only gave us the model of the amp so I will make an assumption that your 12" subs are the Sony XS-GTX120LW. First, they cannot hold 1200 watts a piece. They are meant to be powered with 350 watts RMS. They will hold 1200 watts peak. That means that 1200 watts for a few seconds will be ok. Past that and kiss them goodbye!
Next you indicated that bridged the amp. Since the subs are both 4 ohm single voice coils did you wire them in series or parallel?
It sounds to me like you wired them in parallel resulting in the amp seeing a 2 ohm load. The amp you referenced is only stable when bridged at 4 ohms.
Has the amp begun working again once it cooled down? If not you could have fried the outputs by having the resistance too low.
Just to the left of the output (speaker) terminals, near the top of the amp, there's an LED marked "POWER/PROTECTOR". If the amp is connected properly and powered on, the LED is ON.
If the amp is being used for normal speakers, use a pair of RCA cables and connect the left/right channels to the appropriate inputs on the amp. The switch marked "LPF" should be "OFF".
If the amp is being used with the channels bridged for a subwoofer, use an RCA "Y" adapter and connect the single "Sub Out" preamp output from the head unit to both amp inputs. The switch marked "LPF" should be "ON" and the crossover set to about 80-100Hz.
I have a similar setup & I just run the second amp straight off the other amp by running positive & remote wires directly from 1 amps positive & remote inputs to the others amps inputs. But my head unit has RCA inputs, (sub in & front & rear inputs) so from my 4 channel amp I run 2 6 inch alpine S's to the front to the front RCA inputs of the head unit, & 2 Pioneer 440w 6x9 inch speakers to the rear inputs. & my 800w 12 inch sub from my 2 channel amp to the sub woofer inputs on the head unit. Has blown my eardrums for nearly 12 months now great stuff!
Hope this has helped
If you are certain speaker isnt blown and you have correct phase wiring and so forth you have whats called a solder jump which is internal repair by dealer only! buy a new amp at dealer wholesale price here cheaper than having it repaired unless under warranty go here for wholesale pricing on almost everything audio wise: www.godspeedaudioheaven.com
The head unit may be rated at 200 watts but it cannot produce more than ~20 watts of real power per channel. There's no way that it can drive the high end speakers to a level that will be needed to compete with the subs on a 1000 watt amplifier.